Stator Papers R/R test????

[esj001]

I have a new reg/rec and a fluke multimeter-----when i do test phase C on the stator papers fault chart I am getting some bad readings

----but when i look at the wiring pics of the reg/rec I dont really understand how when you connect the red multimeter lead to the red pos wire on R/R and then the black multimeter lead to any of the 3 yellows or ground that you shoud get 1.5v for a DIODE check

---my meter shows 0L, basically telling me that the diodes are working for each leg and keeping the electrical flow from going that way--same thing when connecting black lead to the negative on r/r and red lead to 3 yellows---

----(although i will conceed that it appears that if you had the black lead on the R/R neg and pos lead on the far left leg there should be some reading through the SCR and the zener) but that may not be enough to get through the silicon controlled rectifier )

---Am I way off in reading this internal wiring diagram--I attached

just seems to me like according to wiring diagram my new R/R is good but according to Stator paper checks it is bad, can anyone please explain in detail--thanks in advance

 

[tom203]

Did you replace this r/r and actually try it out ( by running bike) or are you just testing it first. I agree that testing r/r diodes is confusing. Since it's new, just try it out! I just replaced my stator ( original 1981 ) and made no attempt to test existing r/r since I knew old stator was bad .In my case, charging resumed correctly. YEAH. My old r/r might fail tomorrow, but that's the joy of these bikes. I trust you ensured a good r/r ground to negative battery terminal, as has been stressed in these forums and have eliminated the useless loop to headlight switch (if you have one).

 

[Steve]

Does your multimeter have a "DIODE TEST" function or are you merely trying to read "OHMS"? :-k

If you are reading OHMS, you will get your "OL" going one direction and a much lower reading the other direction. When you red meter lead is connected to the red output lead, you should get the "OL" when the black meter lead is touched to each of the three yellow leads. Reverse the meter leads, put the black meter lead on the red output lead, touch the red meter lead to each of the three yellow leads, you should get a lower reading.

Now do the same tests at the ground for the r/r, when the black meter lead is connected to the ground and the red meter lead is connectd to the yellow leads, you should get "OL". Reverse the leads, as above, you should get a reading.

If you have an actual DIODE TEST function on your multimeter, all the lead placements are the same, only the reading is different. The DIODE TEST function will apply enough voltage to breakdown the junction in the diodes, and the display will show that breakdown voltage. As above, you will get a reading in one direction and nothing in the other. Note that overall, there will be TWELVE meter readings in this part of the test.

The Zener and the SCR do not come into play until there is enough voltage to bias the zener so it will conduct and turn on the SCR.

.

 

[esj001]

Thanks for the reply----I was using the DIODE check function on the multimeter and was getting 0L ---is this for sure a bad R/R if this is happening???---also it isnt exactly new--it has been run for maybe a month on the bike that prob has a bad stator--will find out about the stator when i get the carbs cleaned and get it running--thanks again