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Stator papers....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Johnny K
  • Start date Start date
J

Johnny K

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I was trying to read the stator papers in the GS garage link and am having trouble with the wording. At the first start my battery was fully charged and was at 12.82 V. So I went down the next step which was and am confused about. Would really appreciate a newb explanation. It says to connect the black multimeter lead to the battery (+). That part I get. I don't get when it says to "connect the red multimeter lead to the red output of the RR. Leave the RR connected to the bike." If the 2 red wires are connected, where am I supposed to put the red mulitmeter lead to? Then the next step I read which i havent yet done says to connect the black multimeter lead up to the negative output of the RR (BLACK/WHITE) but leave the RR connected to the bike. Again if the (black/white) wire is being connected with the green wire coming off the Duneage RR where the two wires have a circle connector for a screw to go through thenm both and into the bottom part of the solinoid. And how do I if need be, connect the RR straight up to the battery (-) with an extra lead? The (-) is on the left side where the cable routes down to the middle part of the bike on the engine case. The right side of the battery (+) has a cable coming down to the solinoid which I think the red wire off the fuse is held together by a nut. Really confusing and really appreciate any responses.
 
Usually, if the stock (bullet) connectors are being used, you can stick your meter probe in along the insulation at the connector (do NOT poke a hole through the side insulation of the wire). The purpose of this measurement is to check the quality of the connection between the r/r and the battery. If the connectors are badly corroded or the wire is bad, it will show as a voltage. If there is vertually NO resistance, there will be virtually NO voltage.

Same thing for the negative side, you are checking for possible bad connections.

To connect your negative wire to the battery, you will have to run a separate wire from your circle connectors to the negative terminal of the battery. This assures a good ground path for the r/r. Be sure to use nothing smaller than 16-gauge wire for this, but 14-gauge would be better.

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It says to connect the black multimeter lead to the battery (+). That part I get. I don't get when it says to "connect the red multimeter lead to the red output of the RR. Leave the RR connected to the bike." If the 2 red wires are connected, where am I supposed to put the red mulitmeter lead to?


There should be a connector where the red comes off the R/R and heads toward the battery or fuse block. This is the DC current that the R/R has converted from AC flowing to charge your battery. You are testing the continuity of the R/R unit in one direction.


Then the next step I read which i havent yet done says to connect the black multimeter lead up to the negative output of the RR (BLACK/WHITE) but leave the RR connected to the bike. Again if the (black/white) wire is being connected with the green wire coming off the Duneage RR where the two wires have a circle connector for a screw to go through thenm both and into the bottom part of the solinoid. And how do I if need be, connect the RR straight up to the battery (-) with an extra lead? The (-) is on the left side where the cable routes down to the middle part of the bike on the engine case. The right side of the battery (+) has a cable coming down to the solinoid which I think the red wire off the fuse is held together by a nut. Really confusing and really appreciate any responses


Step one should be to ground the R/R direct to the negative of the battery, not a frame ground like yours sounds like it. Take the negative off the R/R unit, extend the length if needed, and ground to the (-) Bettery terminal, no ground to frame.
 
ESMarcus said:
Johnny,

Not to get off the topic with the technical document. But what problems are you encountering with your charging system? Also maybe this document could be of some help to you: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php

-Marcus
Click to expand...

If that's the fault finding chart I agree it's a good tool. There is a slightly modified GS specific version somewhere on the same page as the stator papers. For brownie points (heh) I run both electrosport stator and R/R unit.
 
Thanks guys. I replaced every connector/cleaned and greased. I did have to strip a wire to connect to my 16-guage to a female/male connector. I think that is called jumping. Not sure. But I had to do that to a couple of wires that connect to the stator. Made sure they had continuity. But tomorrow I am going to make sure my new battery is fully charged. After I rode it for a 1/2 hour, I got home and went to start it again and it was completely dead. The idle is off, but it could be the carbs. Around 2000 it is okay, but if I idle it around 1500, it will slowly start to just stall after about a min or less. Last I took it for a ride, when ever I pulled the clutch in, it would rev really high about 1000rpm higher for 20-30 seconds, go to idle and then about a min would start to stall. Also letting the clutch out in 1st is really boggy til about 3000. After that, the bike runs decent. Just iffy all around, but first I have to solve this electrical thing with my bike, then will attack whatever it is about the idle. I am going to start off with a fully charged battery and go through the stator tests again. I did make a wire with a circle connector going from the solinoid with "green" wire from the RR, and the "black/white" wire coming from the same screw/bolt. From there the other circle connector went to the negative terminal circle connector. The RR wire wasn't long enough to connect to the negative terminal connector. I did not want to jump the green wire with another wire just to lengthen that wire to connect with the negative terminal. Any suggestions about that RR wire, or is that okay to do?
 
Not too sure about the stator, I am just starting to go through the stator pages myself for my charging problem on my 550. As far as the idle problems you are having, my bike was doing the same thing and it was the mixture screws on the carb. 3 were at 2 turns out and 1 was at 1 turn out. Not sure if that is your problem, but it never hurts to check.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. About a week ago it occured to me why one of my intake boots had a slightly more of a curve then the rest. That curve is accountable for the vacuum issue. Got o-rings with it and waiting for them in the mail. I think once the new ones are on, it will make all the difference. Thanks for the reply though.
 
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