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Stator, R/R again !!

Run the diagnostic tests on both components. Don't assume you need to buy anything until the conclusion is inescapable. Maybe the problem is a bad ground or something.
 
The yellow wire thats melted into the connector comes from the R/R. That wire musta got mucho hot.
 
Just checked the stator. Got about 40vac accross the three wires. 3k rpm. That dont seem too bad.
 
Tell me more about the Honda Conversion. Which one should I get ?

Do you think the melted connector may have bad contacts which caused all the heat ?
 
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Here's the list that's been compiled so far:
Shindengen SH538-12 from Honda CM400 & Silverwing(most common)
SH232-12 from Superdream
SH530-12K from Kawasaki KZ750 & KZ1000
SH535A-12 6.1 from Honda Shadow 650
SH238-12 from Honda ???

Basically, you're looking for a R/R with three yellow wires, one green, one red. Some come with two green and two red, and some have a black "actuater" wire that needs to be connected to a switched 12v+. Do a search on this site and you'll find tons of info and pics on the conversion. So far the Honda 400 R/R's from late '70's bikes are preferred, and it's recommended that you buy a new one from sources like Rick's Electric.

A bad connection could generate a lot of heat, but I'm not the electrical genius here. General rule of thumb with these bikes seems to be clean and/or replace all electrical connections as the electrical is the Achille's Heel of these bikes. I'm cutting out all the connectors between the stator and R/R and soldering/heat shrinking the wires. I had the connector melt on my Shadow when the R/R went out on it, though, so I'm not sure about bad connections. Either way, Honda conversion=happy bike.
 
bonanzadave said:
Stator, R/R again !!

Bummer, I know the answer, I think. What to order first ?

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/Bonanzadave/Suzukiwires003.jpg

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/Bonanzadave/Suzukiwires001.jpg
Click to expand...
Imho, before you go buying anything new, get that rats next of wiring straightened out. If your wiring is melting at the connectors, check why. Your fuses should blow before it gets to that state. Your voltage readings are too low, it should be at least 75V from the alternator. Personally, if I bought this bike, I would begin by unwrapping the wiring harness and looking for chafed wires that could lead to shorts etc. Anywhere that looked iffy, run new wire. Disconnect and clean the ground wires connectors and emery cloth the contact areas. Do not expect a quick,easy fix but if you go back to the basics it will help solve your problems. Keep asking questions too. P.S. crimp connectors on higher voltage wires are a no no, buy new, proper color (or at least tag it) wire and run it one length from connector to connector. You will learn lots by doing this yourself.
P.P.S. buy a good multi meter and learn to use it
 
Im in a small garage and the smoke detector is going off plus its snowing out side. Ill give the Stator the 5K run up tonight. 40vac was at about 3K.

My Stator wire connectors are the stock bullet connectors.

No blown fuses.

Ill work on cleaning the grounds. I know where the battery is grounded. Any others I should look for ?

If you think that a rats nest.......This is what I do for fun

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/Bonanzadave/alvarez.jpg
 
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flyingace said:
Run the diagnostic tests on both components. Don't assume you need to buy anything until the conclusion is inescapable. Maybe the problem is a bad ground or something.
Click to expand...

Right on Ace. Electricity is actually smoke. When a wire fails it releases the smoke into the air causing system failure:-D

Looks like at least three of those wires were heating up from the photo. Probably just corroded connections over the years. Clean and lubricate with di-electrical tune up grease.
 
Avionics, anyone? My brother's an A&P (aircraft mechanic) and I've seen the wiring in some of the "hell holes" he has to work in. Makes the GS wiring look primitive. A relay for a relay for an actuator......

Gimme a basic 12-volt system anyday.
 
Just to add a little excitement to life, a toasted stator may still output enough current to marginally charge the battery, especially if the electrical loads are low (headlamp switched off). Additionally, when voltage testing the phase outputs (no-load, wires disconnected), the AC voltages can seem deceptively normal. The one pictured below displayed just these fun characteristics and was eventually replaced by an Electrex. So beware, expect the unexpected.
View attachment 1305
 
cberkeley said:
Just to add a little excitement to life, a toasted stator may still output enough current to marginally charge the battery, especially if the electrical loads are low (headlamp switched off). Additionally, when voltage testing the phase outputs (no-load, wires disconnected), the AC voltages can seem deceptively normal. The one pictured below displayed just these fun characteristics and was eventually replaced by an Electrex. So beware, expect the unexpected.
View attachment 1305
Click to expand...

The real test is if the stator and R/R actually keep your battery charged. My stator only puts out about 45 VAC max, but that's the spec of the manufacturer. The battery is always charged.
 
Went and saddled her up over lunch. 7 miles back to work and the little voltmeter gizmo showed 13.5vdc - 15vdc all the way. 12.5vdc at idle and it starts charging around 2K. Wierd thing though is when I switch on my high beam it goes to 15.5vdc. That seems a little high to me.
 
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