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Stator/Regulator replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter buckshot1718
  • Start date Start date
So I did the test, here's how it came out.
At rest:12.1v
With key on for 10 sec: 9.7v
After this I tried to start it but it had about enough juice to turn over once. So I jumped it.
While it was running at 1500 rpm: 13.6v
2500 rpm: 13.1v
5000 rpm: 13.1v
After I killed it:12.8v
 
Battery needs to be charged. If you can pull the battery out( or at least remove the battery terminals), use jumper cables to attach to your car battery in parallel and top it up. Don't let the loose wires short to the battery cause they went (oops).
It seems to be charging some, but I suspect you have very dirty conenctions.
I have no idea what we are looking at (zero pictures provided)
So I would do a basic cleaning using Naval jelly and Deoxit for prep on all connections to the R/R and to the battery.
re do the test.
 
Its a pretty clean bike for its age. Most everything is original though so the connections probably do need some cleaning. Ill probably get to it this weekend. So what do i do if i charge the battery and clean connections and it doesn't change?
 
Also id like to add. After i shut the bike down, i waited about 5 minutes then tried to start it again. She didn't have it, i had to jump it again. Dont know if that gives you any more info or not.
 
buckshot1718 said:
Its a pretty clean bike for its age. Most everything is original though so the connections probably do need some cleaning. Ill probably get to it this weekend. So what do i do if i charge the battery and clean connections and it doesn't change?
Click to expand...

This all may seem very tedious but unfortunately it's necessary. You have a 36 yr old machine and that quick fix you're looking for doesn't exist. Take it step by step and eventually the problems will be behind you.
 
I think, 1st, that you need a battery. Fully charge and leave it sit overnight unhooked, then see what your readings are. Should show voltage at least in the middle 12 range. Hook it back up and if it drops right away with the key on it's junk.
 
posplayr said:
Battery needs to be charged. If you can pull the battery out( or at least remove the battery terminals), use jumper cables to attach to your car battery in parallel and top it up. Don't let the loose wires short to the battery cause they went (oops).
It seems to be charging some, but I suspect you have very dirty conenctions.
I have no idea what we are looking at (zero pictures provided)
So I would do a basic cleaning using Naval jelly and Deoxit for prep on all connections to the R/R and to the battery.
re do the test.
Click to expand...

Alright so i got a brand new battery, charged it. Heres how it came out this time.
At rest: 12.6
With key on for 10 sec: 11.52
At 1500rmp: 13.1
At 2500rpm: 13.7
At 5000rpm: 13.4
After off: 12.8
I checked and cleaned all of the grounds. I even added a ground directly to battery(-). I cleaned the positive connects that connect to battery. Any other connections i should check?
 
buckshot1718 said:
Alright so i got a brand new battery, charged it. Heres how it came out this time.
At rest: 12.6
With key on for 10 sec: 11.52
At 1500rmp: 13.1
At 2500rpm: 13.7
At 5000rpm: 13.4
After off: 12.8
I checked and cleaned all of the grounds. I even added a ground directly to battery(-). I cleaned the positive connects that connect to battery. Any other connections i should check?
Click to expand...

The drop off between 2500 and 5000 indicates you have dirty connections still. Did you clean the fusebox and every connection between the battery and the R/R?

A Single point ground (SPG) is recommended. You can do the Phase A statro pages to measure your drops to see if they are on positive or negative side of the battery
 
These old bikes, like any other old vehicle, need a good going thru after sitting and/or use. To avoid that, as the hassle it might seem up front, is to most likely include issues down the road....away from home. Spend the time at home cleaning up crummy/cruddy connections...frayed wires, old batteries, loose connectors...will give you a far more enjoyable ride down the road. Pay now - play later...
These bikes can have some known charging issues due to bad connections and the design of the "full on" nature of said system - bad connections give the system the false lead of need for more current, which means more heat and eventual burnout. The alternative is to go to a series system which will work in needed stages {of sorts}- but you still need good connections either way you choose.
This is why the folks here are asking you to do the given rpm tests and see where the problem lies....voltage drops are where the connections are bad. The only way to find these is by checking.
I'll add this and then get off the soap box....to swap in a new battery, new stator and new reg and still have bad connections, is not going to solve any problems for anyone. Remove all and any weak links and your chain is then strong...to check is to know.
 
attachment.php


This is what the fuse box looks like after you pop off the back. It is best to clean with something line Naval jelly, then flow solder into the crimps. Prep with DeOxit of similar.
 
20170307_175946.jpg
This the fuse box when i opened it. I cleaned what i could but as you can see it was in pretty good shape.
 
did I miss the stator check on this one? didn't see any AC readings posted, but it sounds like the stator is putting out.

ok, new battery, checked connections and took some running readings, all I can see so far.

This is why I keep a cheapo "universal" R/R handy, easy to swap in/out and see if it is the R/R.

I'd say you either have a bad R/R, you are bleeding voltage or possibly both.. 30+year old wires, weak insulation, wire is cheap and if you have the time.....

even though we are dealing with low voltage, think of voltage as "electrical pressure"... envision a water hose, the hose is the insulator, the water is conductor, the GPM is the current and the PSI is the voltage, if the GPM stays the same but you increase the PSI...the pressure has to be relieved somewhere, there has to be leakage/bleed off somewhere and old insulation makes it easy. Try running the bike in the dark and look for a small spark/glow if you are bored.


Unless you want to spend just as much time setting up to do an insulation test (you would need an insulation tester $$$). It's easier and takes just as much time to replace the wiring and be done with any questions.

spend the $15 on a cheapo R/R and if that solves your issues, then spend the money on a good one and keep the cheap one as an emergency back up or a tester.

question... did you pull the R/R off and look at the back for any burn marks or obvious signs of overheat? Just curious.
 
Last edited:
Blue Falcon said:
did I miss the stator check on this one? didn't see any AC readings posted, but it sounds like the stator is putting out.

ok, new battery, checked connections and took some running readings, all I can see so far.

This is why I keep a cheapo "universal" R/R handy, easy to swap in/out and see if it is the R/R.

I'd say you either have a bad R/R, you are bleeding voltage or possibly both.. 30+year old wires, weak insulation, wire is cheap and if you have the time.....

even though we are dealing with low voltage, think of voltage as "electrical pressure"... envision a water hose, the hose is the insulator, the water is conductor, the GPM is the current and the PSI is the voltage, if the GPM stays the same but you increase the PSI...the pressure has to be relieved somewhere, there has to be leakage/bleed off somewhere and old insulation makes it easy. Try running the bike in the dark and look for a small spark/glow if you are bored.


Unless you want to spend just as much time setting up to do an insulation test (you would need an insulation tester $$$). It's easier and takes just as much time to replace the wiring and be done with any questions.

spend the $15 on a cheapo R/R and if that solves your issues, then spend the money on a good one and keep the cheap one as an emergency back up or a tester.

question... did you pull the R/R off and look at the back for any burn marks or obvious signs of overheat? Just curious.
Click to expand...
We have something called the quick test that is able to separate a large part of the ambiguity group of symptoms and faults. It is based on an diagnosis of the deviations in measurements from a prescribed normal range. In the Op's case it is clear he is dealing with dirty connection, just a matter of finding them. The SPG is one of the ways to improve those connections part of which he has apparently done.
 
buckshot1718 said:
View attachment 50081
This the fuse box when i opened it. I cleaned what i could but as you can see it was in pretty good shape.
Click to expand...

Realize that if you have 10 amps flowing through that fuse box, then it would only take 0.1ohms to drop 1.0V. Given this is minimum resolution of most ohmmeters you can get a sense of the problem. You can have minor oxidation causing significant voltage drops (e.g. 0.5V or more) .
You need to chemically clean and treat that fuse box.

If you have a decent soldering iron and some flux, you can flow a little solder into the crimps and make a permanent solution rather than have a maintenance task.
 
Alright. Im gonna go ahead and solder the connections, see if this helps. If not then ill just have to dig through some of the wires more and see if there are any bad ones.
Thanks everyone.
 
buckshot1718 said:
Alright. Im gonna go ahead and solder the connections, see if this helps. If not then ill just have to dig through some of the wires more and see if there are any bad ones.
Thanks everyone.
Click to expand...

I really dont know you from anything other than your posts ,but before you go off and try and solder oxidized crimps and over heat the wire, clean them with Naval jelly and use liquid flux.
 
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