Stator test questions, will I kill my new R/R?

[Macmatic]

DOH!

$120 for a new stator? DOUGH!

I hope the one I'm expecting this weekend is good. Its going to be time to at least an upper end rebuild on this engine next Fall so I hope it lasts that long.


Who stocks engine gasket sets for these bikes? The '83-85 GS750/700.

/\/\ac

 

[Guest]

DOH!

$120 for a new stator? DOUGH!

I hope the one I'm expecting this weekend is good. Its going to be time to at least an upper end rebuild on this engine next Fall so I hope it lasts that long.


Who stocks engine gasket sets for these bikes? The '83-85 GS750/700.

/\/\ac

Search Ebay for stators on the list I posted. You might me suprised to find a low milege stator for cheap! You have to wire on your rubber grommet on your stock stator but it's worth it.

 

[Matchless]

Who stocks engine gasket sets for these bikes? The '83-85 GS750/700.

/\/\ac

Try them: https://www.partsnmore.com/motorcycle-gasket_sets.php?make=suzuki&category=gasket_set

 

[Macmatic]

The new to me stator came in the mail today. Good news and bad news there, on the one hand it looks almost perfect with only a small piece of missing insulation on one leg where they are bare coming out of the stator. The rest of the insulation looks perfect to my eye.

Thats the good news.

The bad news is that I'm only getting conductivity between two legs. I could just cut off the wires a few inches from the stator and test again but I don't want to break into the harness if the problem is someplace else. And I can't really probe the wire there very well so I'm wondering if there are any checks I can make on the stator with it in hand to see if the problem is in the wiring the stator itself?

Or should i just hack it off?

If the problem is in the external wiring or otherwise fixable I can always cut off the OEM wiring and fill the area with the right epoxy. I'd need to clean the last of the oil out of it for that, are these things solvent safe? I'd assume so but Berryman's can be pretty hash.

Thanks,
/\/\c/\/\atic

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Macmatic,

Continuity checks are all you can do with the stator off the bike.

Between any two legs you should see between 0.5 ohms to 2.0 ohms of resistance.

Between the center (core) of the stator and any single leg, there should be no continuity, no connection (infinite resistance).

There may be some solder connections very near the stator itself, where the external wiring meets the windings on the stator. I once had a stator where a couple of these connections broke. I re-soldered them and everything was OK. You may have to peel back some insulation or shrink tubing to see these connections.

There is a guy on ebay who sells rewound stators for about $80 if you send in your core. Actually, I'm not sure he's still around. A quick search of ebay turned up nothing for me. If you've got patience, you can certainly rewind your own. It's not hard, just tedious.

From the collection on my website:

Using the stator rewinding guide in the Garage Section of The GS Resources website, Mr. Nerobro documents his stator rewinding experience in this thread on the GSR Forum.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Macmatic]

Well I took a longer look and decided that the wiring harness was going to have to come off no matter what to repair the uninsulated wires near the stator so I cut it off on the bike side of the solder joint.

.8ohms between all three and no continuity to the body of the stator! Of course those are about the same readings I got with the bad one on the bike but these are the same checks I'd do with an ebay item so its worth fixing the wiring and trying out... as long as it doesn't zap the R/R!

Any recommendations for epoxies other than those listed here?
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorrewind.htm

Those seem kinda pricey....

/\/\ac

 

[Matchless]

If you post a picture of what you have to enable me to see exactly where the problem is I may be able to advise you. I am guessing that at this stage you have three enameled tails sticking out of the stator after cutting off the three wires.
1) You can use any kind of high temperature epoxy than is heat resistant to >130 Celcius, preferably 180. Maybe JB weld would be OK, but we get different kinds than yours here. Maybe even use a dab of High Heat Resistant silicon gasket maker, usually good up to 600 C.
2) Remove all oil where the epoxy must go, use alcohol or benzine or even some engine degreaser, dry and clean properly. Do not use carb or brake cleaner, thinners or acetone!
3) Bending wires in older stators tend to crack the insulation, so try to avoid.
4) You can get a piece of single wire High Temp woven sleeving for the copper wires from an armature rewinder, slip 3 pieces right back on the three tails to protect old enamel on the copper.
5) Cover outer damaged wire on poles carefully with 2 part epoxy and use a hot air gun sparingly and the epoxy should thin and run in. Give it more coats if too thin.
6) Twist the tree copper tials together only where covered in new sleeving and clean enamel off ends and tin with solder.
7) Slip 3 larger pieces of High Temp woven cloth sleeving over the 3 new yellow wires.
8) Twist the cleaned and tinned ends of the solid copper tail in a tight spiral around the copper end of the yellow wires. Try to get in at least 3 close turns and solder those connections, this method is important as a basic soldered joint will break after while due to heat and vibration, mostly vibration. Slip the sleeving over the joint.
9) Refit the sleeving for the yellow wires and fit the clamp to hold them in place.

Hopefully this helps you

 

[duaneage]

as long as it doesn't zap the R/R!

We've had people hook Honda RRs up in completely wrong ways and they still worked after it was sorted out. I would not worry about that.

 

[Macmatic]

If you post a picture of what you have to enable me to see exactly where the problem is I may be able to advise you. I am guessing that at this stage you have three enameled tails sticking out of the stator after cutting off the three wires.
1) You can use any kind of high temperature epoxy than is heat resistant to >130 Celcius, preferably 180. Maybe JB weld would be OK, but we get different kinds than yours here. Maybe even use a dab of High Heat Resistant silicon gasket maker, usually good up to 600 C.
2) Remove all oil where the epoxy must go, use alcohol or benzine or even some engine degreaser, dry and clean properly. Do not use carb or brake cleaner, thinners or acetone!
3) Bending wires in older stators tend to crack the insulation, so try to avoid.
4) You can get a piece of single wire High Temp woven sleeving for the copper wires from an armature rewinder, slip 3 pieces right back on the three tails to protect old enamel on the copper.
5) Cover outer damaged wire on poles carefully with 2 part epoxy and use a hot air gun sparingly and the epoxy should thin and run in. Give it more coats if too thin.
6) Twist the tree copper tials together only where covered in new sleeving and clean enamel off ends and tin with solder.
7) Slip 3 larger pieces of High Temp woven cloth sleeving over the 3 new yellow wires.
8) Twist the cleaned and tinned ends of the solid copper tail in a tight spiral around the copper end of the yellow wires. Try to get in at least 3 close turns and solder those connections, this method is important as a basic soldered joint will break after while due to heat and vibration, mostly vibration. Slip the sleeving over the joint.
9) Refit the sleeving for the yellow wires and fit the clamp to hold them in place.

Hopefully this helps you

Matchless, thanks for the writeup!

I spent a few days looking around for the proper sleeving but was unable to find it locally. Today I went to the local Pull-a-Part parts yard and ruined a couple of alternator cores harvesting similar material from the winding. I'm not sure if its the same exactly but it should be close. I'm also going to see what I can salvage from the old stator.

You're on the money though, I do have three solid copper wires left coming from the stator with chipped coating on them. I was able to desolder the crimped on connectors so my leads are factory tinned! I'm going to use Permatex 84109 4min grey epoxy to repair the coating on the wires and as soon as it sets to the touch I'm going to slip on the sleeving and then solder the yellow leads back on. I'm hoping that if I do a dry run or two I'll be able to get the epoxy on the leads, get the woven covers on, solder the ends, slip the woven cover up, give it all a twist and have it back in the clamp before the epoxt sets enough to be brittle.

/\/\ac

 

[Billy Ricks]

Well I finally got around to testing the output of the RM stator and it needs to go back. It has been weak since day one and when I finally checked voltages it was only putting out about 50 volts on all legs at 5,000 rpm. At idle it was only putting out about 15 volts on all legs. They were consistent readings but weak. Time to pull up my Paypal receipt and see about getting a replacement. And FWIW, they do look to be Elecrosport rebranded.

 

[Billy Ricks]

Just wanted to update my last post. Turned out to be a bad battery, the RM stator is fine.