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Stator test results

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tom108
  • Start date Start date
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Tom108

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I just tested my stator output with the engine running at 4500rpm I got around 69 volts from two of the three stator legs, but got nothing between the two white leads. Also measured resistance with engine off and got equal readings on all three leads around 2 ohms. What could have failed and still yield equal resistance readings?
 
you need 0-1 ohm and pretty equal readings. (more ohms is bad)
1-2
1-3
2-3
dont forget insulation break down test
1-ground 2-ground 3-ground
all need to be Open line or infinite (if you have a analog meter) any reading of ohms to ground means a bad leg on the 3 phase stator

unloaded ac potential should also be somewhat equal
1-2
1-3
2-3
idle ac volts at least 28~30
rev engine and readings less than 75~80+ is bad. (more volts is good here)
 
Okay, I actually read 1 ohm between each leg on the 200 ohm scale. But I had a connection to ground(the engine block) around 15ohms on each leg. So I'm guessing the stator insulation is broken down somewhere and one of the wires is touching ground inside the case. I guess I'll have to take the stator cover off and have a look.
 
Does it really matter why its now scrap metal? My guess would be a winding is shorted out to another so that the majourity of the coil isn't used. ANYONE ELSE CARE TO GUESS? LOL
 
Well, It seemed odd to me that all three resistance readings would be the same if only two of them had any output. And I wouldn't have done the insulation test to ground until I got that return post, Thanks! But that's just the engineer/mechanic in me, I try to fix/salvage almost everything. And YES, I guess you're right, it probably will turn out to be scrap metal, unless I try to rewind it, or it's just a lead in wire that's an easy fix.
 
The wiring in the stator is such that a resistance measurement between any two wires is actually measuring across one winding in parallel with the other two windings in series with each other. Look at the diagram in the Stator Papers about rewinding a stator, and you'll see this. You could have one winding shorted to ground, and the resistance measurements would be exactly the same. But you'd be hard pressed to get any significant output from that shorted winding. Bottom line - replace it or rewind it.
 
tomm said:
The wiring in the stator is such that a resistance measurement between any two wires is actually measuring across one winding in parallel with the other two windings in series with each other. Look at the diagram in the Stator Papers about rewinding a stator, and you'll see this. You could have one winding shorted to ground, and the resistance measurements would be exactly the same. But you'd be hard pressed to get any significant output from that shorted winding. Bottom line - replace it or rewind it.
Click to expand...

No, the OEM stators are Y connected not delta (although I believe one of the rewind pages tells you to rewind in delta configuration)
So the measurement between two leads is them in series, with the third one not influencing it.

As far as not getting output, its possible that the problem is in the connectors (that happened on mine)

If the stator is shorted to ground you will have to replace or rewind, but its possible the ground is in the leads to/from the stator too.
 
Thanks Bakalorz. Duaneage did tell me that they were in a WYE configuration, but I was going by the picture in the stator papers. Guess just like you said in the other thread, it depends. One more reason why this stuff gives folks so much trouble. Do you know if any OEM stators are wound Delta? Would be good to know for future threads.
 
tomm said:
Thanks Bakalorz. Duaneage did tell me that they were in a WYE configuration, but I was going by the picture in the stator papers. Guess just like you said in the other thread, it depends. One more reason why this stuff gives folks so much trouble. Do you know if any OEM stators are wound Delta? Would be good to know for future threads.
Click to expand...

All the diagrams for Suzuki stators I have seen are Y
To the best of my knowledge all the OEM stators are Y, but I can't definatively say that none of the OEM stators are delta.

I looked at the Stator papers again, and the illustration at the front of section I shows a Y. Section VI describes rewinding as a delta, although there is some controversy in the emails at the end.

Two things I noticed looking at the troubleshooting.

They never investigate poor connections in the bullet connectors.
(nor advocate replacing them)
I personally think the First step in troubleshooting a charging problem would be to replace these connectors with blade type crimp connectors.
(and redo the grounds, which they DO mention)
The way bullet connectors mate leads to them having poor connections, blade connectors are much better.

2nd row from the top there is a block that has "voltage higher than 14.8 V", they go back into the table at that point ... I think this is wrong.
At this point you already know that the regulator is faulty, (at least the regulator, maybe other things too ...).
Its still worth checking the stator, but there is no point to doing the diode checks, even if it passes them the R/R is still shot.

If your voltage is above setpoint (and I would say over 15 or 15.2 or even 15.5 volts may be acceptable at some RPMs) then the R/R is extremely likely to be toast. (I won't go as far as saying there couldn't be some kind of connection problems with that symptom, but as far as I can work out, any connection problems will always show as low voltage.
Pure stator problems will always be low voltage as opposed to high.
If both regulator and stator are toast then you could get too high at some RPMs and to low at others, or always low.
 
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