Stator Wire Insulation Inside Crankcase

[ColoradoGS850L]

Hey all, first time posting.

I'm doing my first stator on a 1980 GS850L and finally thought I had the job done when I realized I may have made a mistake supplementing the insulation before the wires leave the crankcase cover. The weaved sheathing around the wires from the stator was too short, so I took some insulation from the old stator, cut down the middle of it, and wrapped it around the bare portion. Once I did that, I placed Scotch 33+ electrical tape around the supplemented sheathing to hold it in place. What I'm worried about is that electrical tape breaking down and causing problems due to heat in the crankcase. In the picture below, you can see the area I'm referring to just before the rubber grommet to the left.

So, should I be concerned and take the crankcase cover off, drain oil, etc. If so, what can I use to hold that insulation in place? Zip ties?

 

[fbody_mike]

My fear, and probably yours as well is that the tape is going to come undone in the oil and heat and eventually come off and make its way to the oil pump pick up screen. I'd remove the tape, I think the wires will be ok without the sheathing. I think even zip ties would become vey brittle over time and break off.

 

[ColoradoGS850L]

Thanks, I've been thinking about it all night and couldn't find much info about it. Too bad I didn't think about it before I closed everything up and added oil Oh well, a good project for after work. Thanks for the response.

 

[posplayr]

Get some high heat shrink tube. The best is made of teflon. That said that location is not going to get as hot as the actual stator, but obviously the primary heat to traveling up the wires from the stator.

 

[Brendan W]

Here's what PO did to mine. The stator survived. Grafted on new wires at the windings terminals complete with grommet and insulating tube and putting out nearly 80V ac.

 

[ColoradoGS850L]

Okay, I'm looking into high heat shrink tube. I guess I'll have to cut the wires somewhere and crimp on connections as the wiring is one continuous piece through the grommet etc. and I don't know how else I'd get the tube over it.

 

[Brendan W]

Well obviously I'm sensitised to connectors in there.
Would you not consider going all the way back to the stator and open them off to get a longer tube on?
Crimp connectors will have to be staggered to allow any reasonable size tube on there.

 

[ColoradoGS850L]

I'm not experienced in soldering etc. so I'm hesitant to do anything with the wiring inside of the crankcase cover. If possible, I'd rather approach from the other side and ultimately pull the wires through the grommet and re-feed after I've placed the tubing. I'm definitely open to ideas, but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew.

 

[Brendan W]

If the wires are long enough I would be very slow to cut them.
In fact hell would freeze over......................
A better option might be a big heat shrink slit and wrapped on before heating.
My 2c.

 

[ColoradoGS850L]

Brendan W, honestly I don't want anything to do with cutting them either. If I can cut a slit on the heatshrink, then heat it to close it back up I would do that every time. I'm just not familiar with heat shrink, so I didn't know if I could cut it and then heat it to bond it back together. If that's an option, I'm 100% for it.

That's basically what caused this issue for me to begin with. I wanted to put insulation over the wires, but didn't think of how I would put the insulation mesh back together once I'd cut a slit in it...hence the electrical tape .

 

[posplayr]

Okay, I'm looking into high heat shrink tube. I guess I'll have to cut the wires somewhere and crimp on connections as the wiring is one continuous piece through the grommet etc. and I don't know how else I'd get the tube over it.

This is what you are looking for. You can probably find a small piece with free shipping on ebay.

https://www.cableorganizer.com/heat...WQqP9PH5IgrBjivenVTtYjqxZczj7lixoC_SMQAvD_BwE

https://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/fep-specs.html

cut to length, slip it over the wire and heat it till it shrinks. You will need to make sure it stays in place until it is shrunk. Lay the wire flat or hold it with a screwdriver while you heat it (hair dryer or lighter would work).

 

[posplayr]

Brendan W, honestly I don't want anything to do with cutting them either. If I can cut a slit on the heatshrink, then heat it to close it back up I would do that every time. I'm just not familiar with heat shrink, so I didn't know if I could cut it and then heat it to bond it back together. If that's an option, I'm 100% for it.

That's basically what caused this issue for me to begin with. I wanted to put insulation over the wires, but didn't think of how I would put the insulation mesh back together once I'd cut a slit in it...hence the electrical tape .

No, you can't slit the shrink tubing.

 

[posplayr]

Well obviously I'm sensitised to connectors in there.
Would you not consider going all the way back to the stator and open them off to get a longer tube on?
Crimp connectors will have to be staggered to allow any reasonable size tube on there.

Any low temp (under 300 degF) solder could probably melt near the stator. Solder near where your crimps are might be OK.

 

[Brendan W]

I can see the problem. Tape is risky because the adhesive will degrade and tape goes for a walk.
You need to get something under the clamp and at that bend to protect from chafing.
Thinking of that automotive corrugated conduit......... the slit stuff?
Just seen Posplayr's stuff. Looks impressive.

 

[posplayr]

I can see the problem. Tape is risky because the adhesive will degrade and tape goes for a walk.
You need to get something under the clamp and at that bend to protect from chafing.
Thinking of that automotive corrugated conduit......... the slit stuff?

If you really do not want to not cut anything. He could zip tie the corrugated stuff real tight then clamp it in place. Q quality zip tie will probably last. But not to close to the stator.

 

[Brendan W]

These were the connectors on the 60V stator I cannibalised for the wiring and grommet.

 

[ColoradoGS850L]

I do have the original weaved sheathing from the previous stator, perhaps I could use the zip ties posplayr mentioned to hold that sheathing in place after it's been slit (instead of electrical tape). Presumably that sheathing is pretty heavy duty as it was the stock insulator.

Thanks for all the responses!

 

[posplayr]

These were the connectors on the 60V stator I cannibalised for the wiring and grommet.View attachment 55490

They are probably just crimped butt connector and not soldered. They have to transition from solid core stator wire to multi-strand for going to the R/R somewhere. You don't want to run solid core beyond the clamp down. If the solid core flexes due to vibration, it will eventually work harden and break off.