• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Steering Head Bearings

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I'm currently going over my 81 GS650G and updating a few things which have needed some attention. For the last year or so, the front end has had a clunck in it when you go over a bump and also has a "notch" in the stearing head. The "notch" is dead center when the handle bars are straight and you feel it when you turn the bars either way. I read on a German GS site these exact symptons would be the need to replace the steering head bearings. Assuming that this analysis is correct, how difficult is it to replace these bearings, my Clymer manual says not to bother and take it to the dealer as special tools are required. I'm fairly competent with tools and ripping stuff apart, so I'm asking if anyone has done this before and has any advice. Would also like to know if the bearings are available anywhere else other than the dealer as a few posts have mentioned that most of these bearings are standard automotive sizes. Thanks....
 
You can get the bearing at a bearing supply house. You need to have the # from the old bearing. Time to do the job 2-3 hours depending on you skills. First support the front of the bike, remove the calapers and disconnect the instrument cluster (use a piece of wire to hang them from, unbolt the handle bars,or remove the large nut. or pinch bolt depends on model undo the lock bolt and then remove the adjuster nut and it will come apart. Now you need a long 12" drift/punch and 5 lbs hammer to drive the old bearing races out being carefull to drive it out straight. Grind the outer edge of the old race so that it just slips in, then Use the old race to drive the new race into position, Clean everything grease the bearings and reinstall everything. Tighten the adjuster nut tight to seat the new brgs then loosen it. tighten it again until there is no play in the brgs + 1/8 turn and check that it moves freely from lock to lock, finish assembling
 
I Had the same problem

I Had the same problem

My 78 GS550 was doing the same thing. I called it a steering dimple.
I backed off on the head adjuster about one eighth a turn and it completely went away with no steering slop or looseness. I do and did not have a "Clunck" however and that may be symptomatic of a different problem.
Good luck,
Mike
 
Re: Steering Head Bearings

retsoo said:
the front end has a clunck in it when you go over a bump...
Click to expand...

I have the same problem on my 83 gs750es. Someone told me it was probably brakes. Seems like the clunk is coming from the left side.
 
OK, I have managed to take the steering head out, have discovered the source of the clunck. The adjusting nut for the bearings had come loose, so the whole steering head had about and eight of inch of play up and down, needless to say, whenever I went over a bump, the sterring head would pound on the bearings. The top bearing came off OK, the bottom one is stuck on the steering head. There are grooves in the part that sits in the frame, I assume this is what is called the outer race and will also have to be replaced??? The big problem I have right now is trying to get the old bottom bearing of the sterring head. What is the best way to remove this bearing? There doesn't seem to be any way to pound on it except for about one inch on one side???
 
If you have a dremmel tool you can cut the brg. Remove the outer shell and the rollers and cut the inner race down so that you can split it with a chisel. Use the old brg race and a piece of pipe to drive the new brg on.
 
Well I'm down to my last question here. I don't have a Dremmel but managed to get the bottom bearing off the steering stem with just a screwdriver and hammer. I also managed to get the top race out of the steering head by using a piece of 1" copper pipe as a drift/punch, it came out real easy. Now, for my last problem removing the bottom race out of the steering head. Because the bottom of the steering head flairs out to accommodate the bearing, any punch/drift/pipe that is straight will not catch the edge of the race when inserted from the top of the head. I have tried bending a pipe at the end and a metal rod, but nothing seems to catch the lip of the race. Is this why my Clymer manual said to forget about this part and take it to the dealer? Any way to remove the sucker from the bottom without buying special tools?
 
I have done that using a long lenth of M* stainless studding and some m12 washers. Place them on the studding off centre and use 2 nuts to secure the washers. Then apply a small amout of heat on the bottom of the headstock place the studding in the headstock and give it a hit. If you move this round the lower race it should drop out (mind your toes).
 
Thanks Casper, I'll try that one next time. After exhausting my workshop for any suitable material, I headed off to the hardware store looking for anything that would do the job and spied a wrecking bar that had about the right angle on the tip. I had one at home and proceeded to grind the end to fit the round race, had my daughter hold it in place and gave it a good whack, it popped out. I'm waiting for the top dust seal from the dealer before reassembling everything.
I did learn a few things in the last week about purchasing replacement bearings. They are not created equal. I have an over abundance of bearing supply places here and all will give you a generic replacement for the original NTN bearings based on the number on the bearing. Even though the ouside and inside diameters of the replacements equal the NTN, the innner construction and race are not the same dimensions. The point of this is, the bottom bearing on the steering stem has a grease seal which the other manufacturers cannot supply, and the original one will not fit the other manufacturers. The grease seal is not listed in the Suzuki microfiche so it has to come with the original bearing. I was able to reuse the old seal on a new NTN bearing which I finally sourced after a couple of days. For all the hassle in getting the right bearing, the dealer probably would have been best and it would have come with the seal.
 
Does the 650 have tapered bearings, if not, I'd recommend fitting them if you can get a suitable sized replacement
 
Yes they are tapered bearings. I was at my local Suzie dealer today picking up some other parts I ordered and out of curiosity asked him how much for the original bearings, they were only 5 bucks more than what I paid for at the "other place", but it comes with the grease seal. So, I didn't find it worth the hassle and time going aftermarket when my local dealer can get the original for a couple of bucks more. Iwas totally surprised at what Suzuki still stocks for my bike in their warehouse after 22 years, and I did pick up a lot of stuff.
 
Original isn't always best, suzuki do tend to produce to a budget and charge over the odds, but if you keep 'em greased they are as good as anything, its not as if they are working at high temp/speed or anything.
 
The hassle I went through to get another brand that was the same size and CAME with a grease seal just wasn't worth it. The first set of bearings lasted 22 years, and the only reason they're toast is because the adjusting nut came loose. By the time the second set wears out, I'll be long gone and in a box.
 
Just an update on this topic, I have finished reassembling the front end and replaced the bearings. The clunk is gone and the "notch" at dead center is also gone, handles much better now. Re the after market bearings, even though I purchased NTN bearings again, they were not original Suzuki but NTN replacements, I figure after 22 years NTN has probably figured out how to make bearings and they should be good enough for another 22 years. I'm not concerned that they'll wear out that soon even though I have a fairly heavy Hannigan fairing sitting on the front end. My thanks to all the people who responded and gave advice to this post.
 
After deliberating over having my bearings replaced at the shop, I'm glad to read your post!

The replacement tapers cost me 34 bucks, and came in the day after I ordered them. Labor quote was $200, but they can't fit me in untill July 7th!!!

Must be good to be a motorcycle mechanic in the summer in California.

Word of advice, though - the first thing you should do if you suspect your head bearings are worn is to make sure they're not overtightened. If you catch it soon enough, you'll save your bearings, your wallet, and possibly your a**.


-Q!
 
Difficulty removing inner and outer bottom races GS850

Difficulty removing inner and outer bottom races GS850

I have the front end stripped on my GS850 to replace the head bearings.

I have encountered the same problem. I cannot remove the bottom outer race and the bottom inner race. I have tried drifting and tried to shater the races to no avail.

Can someone explain what "a long lenth of M* stainless studding" is that is mentioned in attached note

Thanks in advance for your help
 
there should be a very small lip between the steering head and the brg race. so you need some type of long chisel,gloves and a good 5 lb hammer (not your nailing hammer). work your way around the brg race so that you don't cock the race. It will eventually give and come out. You can grind the outer part of the old brg race so that it fits loose, and use it to drive the new brg race in.
 
bearings

bearings

the quickest way to remove steering head bearings... if you have a hobby welder run a bead of weld around the inside of bearing shell this will shrink the bearing you then prise it out with a screw driver in a few seconds. do the obvious things like REMOVE fuel tank before welding and cover frame up. you put the welder on LOW amps and do short welds so you dont burn the paint
ozman
 
I still have the original bearings in my 78 GS1000. Keep them adjusted properly and grease them well every 5 years or so.

Now..I have to do that to the swingarms bearings sometime....
 
I also have the original bearings in my 79 GS1000 with 100,000 miles on them. Tapered bearings should last forever if not abused. If you are going to weld on the race, why not just weld a piece of metal across the race so you can easily drive it out? Also, remove/disconnect the battery when welding.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top