Still lean in two carbs.

[cdnoel]

Got my pilots and mains to give me the right color plugs on the #1 and #2 cylinders but the #3 and #4 are still lean. I have the air screws backed out to almost 6 turns on the lean carbs but the other two are set fine at 1.5 turns from bottom. I'm thinking of looking again at the float height but what about the fuel line that hits the #1 and #2 carbs first. Would instaling a T and making the second line hit #3 and #4 at the same time help?

 

[tkent02]

The fuel line should come in between 2 and 3, there is a tube through the 2 and 3 carbs to feed 1 and 4.
You have something different going on?

 

[almarconi]

6 turns out is way too many turns. I would drop the float bowl and make sure you've got gas coming out when you move the floats. Gas should pour out, any less and something is clogged. You could have some crud in there or in the tube feeding gas to those carbs.

 

[Steve]

If you are feeding gas into the T between 1&2, you are feeding it into the VENT, not the gas inlet.

As mentioned, the fuel inlet is between 2&3, the Ts between 1&2 and 3&4 are VENTS.

.

 

[cdnoel]

Soory.

Soory.

Soory.

The tube is between 2 and 3. I'll check for fuel flow as you stated but I was wondering if spliting the line above the carbs and directing it between 1,2 and 3,4 would be a better system. other than that the only thing else I might try is going up one size on the mains in 3 and 4. I will make sure that my float height is correct before I resort to that. I have seen set ups where the fuel height is measured in the carbs on the bike with clear tubing hooked up to the bottom of the bowls. I hope I don't have to resort to that but what ever it takes.

 

[Steve]

Soory.

The tube is between 2 and 3. I'll check for fuel flow as you stated but I was wondering if spliting the line above the carbs and directing it between 1,2 and 3,4 would be a better system. ...

Apparently you missed something in the post above,
DO NOT SPLIT THE FUEL INTO THE VENT HOSES.

The ONLY fuel inlet is the one between carbs 2&3. To direct fuel to any other port is WRONG.

Check to see if you have any fuel in 3&4 by pulling the drain screw. If there is no fuel, check to see if the float valve is working properly. Have you taken the carbs apart and cleaned them yet? The filter screen on the inlet to those carbs might be clogged, restricing fuel flow. If the filters are not clogged, make sure the float height is correct. DO NOT change the main jets on those two carbs, they are not the problem.

.

 

[sam78gs750]

I'm not sure, but i don't think he's talking about running fuel into the vents... It seems like he means he wants to put t connectors on the fuel passages between 1&2, and 3&4. instead of just running one fuel line to the t between 2&3 and letting it run through those carbs to 1&4, he would run two lines from the tank into two separate t connectors, one b/t 1&2 and another b/t 3&4.... it might get fuel to the all the carbs, it might not....

Either way, DON'T DO IT!!! If your carbs are not flowing fuel properly, it is because SOMETHING IS WRONG. something is clogged or not working properly. could be the float height or the float valves not functioning, could be a clogged fuel passage.... whatever it is, fix the problem instead of trying to rig something up. Take your carbs off the bike, disassemble them and give them a thorough cleaning (full dip for each carb and parts). Ensure that all the passages are clear and set your float height. Make sure the float valves are working. reassemble, reinstall, sync the carbs then set your air/fuel mixture. Replace any parts that are not working properly, even if it's any entire carb body. (there's probably several good ones floating around between the members of this forum).

 

[Steve]

It seems like he means he wants to put t connectors on the fuel passages between 1&2, and 3&4. instead of just running one fuel line to the t between 2&3 and letting it run through those carbs to 1&4, he would run two lines from the tank into two separate t connectors, one b/t 1&2 and another b/t 3&4....

Yeah, I guess that might be what he means, but he would have to find another T and then find a couple of plugs to block off the inner ports of 2&3 where the current T is. :-k

For all the time and effort of cobbling up a Band-Aid, he could fix it RIGHT, instead.

.

 

[sam78gs750]

For all the time and effort of cobbling up a Band-Aid, he could fix it RIGHT, instead.

.

Agreed.... It would be a lot less complicated to just tear 'em down and fix what's wrong

 

[Guest]

Are these stock carbs on the 1100? What mods do you have?

 

[cdnoel]

Thats what I meant.

Thats what I meant.

I was talking about adding t's and lines as stated but the lines probably are not the problem. Fixing something that aint broke would probably only add to my woes.

The carbs are not moded but I do have a K&N filter with top removed on the air box. I have a vance&hines pipe on the bike and have gone up on the mains + pilots. the Needles are also shimed up.

The problem wierd as I would expect the center carbs to behave diferently before the right two.

The bike is runing quite nice but I'd like to get all the plugs reading the same.

 

[Steve]

Did anybody else notice this?

The carbs are not moded but I ... have gone up on the mains + pilots. the Needles are also shimed up. ...

You say the carbs are NOT modded, then list the mods you have done. :-k

Please make up my mind for me.

.

 

[Guest]

So you have 50 pilot jets and 130 main jets?
I'd pump the mains up to at least 135.
Idle will not really color the plugs that much. This is mostly on the needle since that's what you ride on most of the time. I'd take another washer off the needles.

 

[tkent02]

I wouldn't change anything until I found out why two of them are different from the other two.

 

[cdnoel]

Re-jetting isn't modifying is it? Anyways I'm on 47.5 pilots as the 50's were way to rich and 120's for the mains. The 50's were sooting up the plugs and the 45's had them bleech white plus that anoying poping all time. I dipped the carbs for two days and blew them out with compressed air but 30 years of varnish may need another treatment perhaps. For now I think I'll just fiddle with the needles or mains so I can ride.

 

[Guest]

I don't know why but for some reason I thought this was an 1150.
4-1 pipe and K&N filter in the airbox with lid removed.
When I ran this setup on my 80 (Kerker 4-1) I ran a 117.5 main/47.5 pilot jet/Shimmed the needle two washers. Good color on the plugs and ran great.
You're really close. I'd play with the needle.
Is your ignition good?

 

[Steve]

Instead of "fiddling" with the various parts, attack it with a systematic approach.

Leave everything in there that's already in there. Make marks on your throttle so you know how far you have it turned. Do proper plug chops, which involve holding the throttle at a certain position, then chopping the throttle, pulling the clutch and hitting the kill switch all at the same time, then roll to a safe place where you can pull the plug to read the color. Do this for each of the throttle settings that will use the different circutis in the carbs so you know which circuit really needs to be changed, which way and how far.

Simply "fiddling", especially changing more than one thing at a time is an exercise in futility.

Here is one way to mark your throttle:

.