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Strange Charging Happening

  • Thread starter Thread starter xXbushyXx
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xXbushyXx

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First post on the forum and boy is it a long one.
So I have been chasing my tail on my '81 GS650E trying to find out why she wouldn't charge. So far I have installed a new battery, R/R and stater. Well, after chasing out some gremlins in the wiring I got her to finally fire up again. Only to find that my battery is charging, backwards. Sitting at idle I'm getting 13.6v, 2500rpm is 12.9v - 13.2v, 5000rpm is 12.6v. Once returned to idle the voltage jumps right back to 13.6v. Now as for the parts installed, the stater is a new caltric unit from eBay. I counted the poles and yes it has the same number as the old unit. I did run through the stater test again on the new unit today and found that one leg was only getting 26.7vac at 5000rpm while the others are in the 80's. So that's one issue I guess. The R/R is a ricks motor sports unit from bike bandit. Now running the readings on it from the stater papers, I'm getting no readings going red lead to red(+) as well as black lead to black(-). but red lead to black(-) and black lead to red(+) i get around .497 on all leads from the R/R. Those are the same readings I got on my old unit. So did I just get a bad R/R? or is there something I'm missing? Any and all ideas are welcome!
 
Yep, follow the tutorial that posplayr mentions. You will find it in his signature.

If you did get a bad R/R, you will definitely need a new one, but either way, you will probably want a new one. The one you should have gotten would be an SH775 by Shindengen. It is commonly found on Polaris Razr vehicles in the last few years. There are a few posts about where to find one. New ones can be found anywhere from about $60 and up (they are about $95 at the dealer), used ones can be found on eBay for about $45.

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So I just got done pulling the new parts back off and now I'm hunting down the R/R you mentioned Steve. As for the connections, I've gone over every connection i could find and checked that it wasn't fried, was still solid, and dielectric greased them. Is there anything else I could be missing?
 
So as I've been digging for the last few hours on the forum. I came across a post about the DB electric SH775 RR's and well, I'm wondering if anyone has had the chance to test them out to see if they perform as well as OEM units or not?
 
Never heard of it.

These are, I believe anyways, the ones that you actually referenced an e-mail exchange asking if they were genuine OEM or not and they just said they were aftermarket.
I might be able to dig up the thread if it would help clear up any questions.
 
pos, I think these are the ones that you confirmed to be Chinese knock-offs of the beloved sh775, and I think we came to the determination that they were shunts, not series. but I can't recall for sure that we verified if they were a shunt or series r/r.
 
pos, I think these are the ones that you confirmed to be Chinese knock-offs of the beloved sh775, and I think we came to the determination that they were shunts, not series. but I can't recall for sure that we verified if they were a shunt or series r/r.
Cowboyup just got one of them. I will go over there to test it to see if it is a shunt or a series unit.

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No problem buddy. I knew which one you were looking for when you brought it up
 
how can you tell the difference? does it charge differently?

A clamp-on ammeter tells the story. A shunt r/r will divert the current back into the windings and the overall current reading remains the same. A series one will simply stop the output dead when loads are satisfied (very fast stop/start) and this leads to a lower overall current reading, as none is being shunted back.
 
so I pulled the trigger on an SH775 OEM unit from polaris. Along with another new stater. Now I've been trying to dig around to find a wiring diagram for installing this upgrade. Anybody have a lead on an easy to read diagram?
 
It's so easy, (skip the caveman jokes) you don't even need a diagram. :-k

- Install new stator.
- Remove current R/R, note the location of the red output wire.
- Install new R/R. I don't know exactly where yours is, you might have to get 'creative'.
- One of the connectors on the new R/R has three pins, the other connector has two. Connect the three stator wires directly to the three pins.
- In the connector with just two pins, the one closer to the stator inputs is the positive. Connect that to the red wire that was connected to the old R/R.
- Connect the remaining terminal to a good ground. If you are using a Single Point Ground, put it there.
- Get out your voltmeter, fire up the bike, verify everything is working properly.
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Steve and I confirmed tonight that the R/R from DB Electric is NOT a Series model; I would recommend not getting it.
 
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