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Stuck Pilot Screw

  • Thread starter Thread starter josefino
  • Start date Start date
Another

Another

I want to share how I took out the pilot screw and fixed the thread. It all started when I was disabled my carbs to be cleaned. One of the pilot got stuck I tried to take it and I messed up the pilot screw. I had to drill a small hole and user a bigger drill bit, then I user a extractor. Then I realized the thread got damaged. So I tried to find a tap that would fix the thread but I was not able to find one. So I made my own, here are the pictures. After that I put some grease on the groves I made with the dremel so the metal shavings will stick to the grease. I used the bad pilot screw. I cut the tip and did a cut on the middle in order to use a flat screw driver, then I inserted the opposite side. Then I slowly re-thread. I had another pilot screw and it when in. Then I was able to clean the carbs and install another pilot screw I had.
 
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Could have just heated it up with a propane torch, a few drops of oil, and turned it right out almost effortlessly.
 
Also could have cut a slot with a Dremel tool and a cut-off wheel. Cut the slot down the tower and make a new, deeper slot in the top of the screw. NO problem at all getting it out. :D

When you are done, it will look like this, both of these carbs were "slotted".

IMG_4081.jpg


.
 
The heat will melt the oring and allow oil to get thru to the entire needle body. No worries about melted rubber in the hole...it will just peel, off when its cool again with a little pick or very small screw driver.
 
Steve said:
Also could have cut a slot with a Dremel tool and a cut-off wheel. Cut the slot down the tower and make a new, deeper slot in the top of the screw. NO problem at all getting it out. :D

When you are done, it will look like this, both of these carbs were "slotted".

IMG_4081.jpg


.
Click to expand...

Yes, but now you have custom carbs. That drops the value of your bike at least 1000 bucks right?!
 
It's all in the choice of tools

It's all in the choice of tools

I own an electronic locksmith business and have more than 10 techs working for us.
Everytime I hear about a stripped out screw head, it's always the screws fault, well I disagree, 90% of the time it's the screw driver or the operator or both.
A very good quality set of screwdrivers can make an average tech perform much better, and I always recommend Wera as the go to brand and my new personal favourites.
http://www-us.wera.de/catalog_us.ht..._screwdrivers_kraftform_plus__series_300.html

http://www-us.wera.de/catalog_us.ht...ewdrivers_kraftform_plus__series_100_vde.html

The lazer etching on the tip really works and the strength is outstanding, If you can not justify the cost of a full set just buy one or two that fits the most common screws you have.
I buy mine from KMS Tools in Canada.

BTW, still a good idea to use penetrating oil, heat or an impact driver on very tough seized screws but I find I can get out most with the Wera drivers, and most importantly not damaging the head.
 
The idea the original poster suggests is a good one. I've been grinding four grooves lengthwise in the threads of cap-screws for years and used them as a poor mans thread tap.
 
I have been messing with a screw latley that will turn almost 2.5 turns and gets stuck. I let it soak a while and helped a little but I don't think the PB blaster really got down into the threads.I have heard of the heat trick before but have not tried it.I think with the combo of heat, oil, a good screwdriver, and patience I may get it. Cutting a slot seems to be a good idea if the slot is damaged though. Hopefully I won't have to go down that road just yet. And also looks like another good idea with using another pilot screw with some slots as a tap to clean things up.Thanks to all ;)
 
Whats haqppening with your screw is the oring is self sealed against the bore and is rolling out of the groove and jamming the threads.

Some heat and oil will release its grip and allow the screw to turn out and let the oring slide up as you unscrew the needle. I always use a Qtip and lube the bores AND the oring with some light grease.
 
PB Blaster (or similar), heat, and a screwdriver that fits snuggly into the screw slot will almost always get out the screw. Fill up the screw tunnel with the penetrating oil and then heat the carb body. Try to turn the screw both in and out. Once you get the screw to turn, keep working the screw back and forth, and use another heat cycle as needed. Keep working the screw and it will come out. Key thing is to not force the screw or you will strip the slot.
 
Nessism said:
PB Blaster (or similar), heat, and a screwdriver that fits snuggly into the screw slot will almost always get out the screw. Fill up the screw tunnel with the penetrating oil and then heat the carb body. Try to turn the screw both in and out. Once you get the screw to turn, keep working the screw back and forth, and use another heat cycle as needed. Keep working the screw and it will come out. Key thing is to not force the screw or you will strip the slot.
Click to expand...

Yes turn it in and out, repeatedly bumming the stuck stop. The screw will start working its way out little by little. May be a long process.
 
Haha no! Repeatedly bumping the stuck spot! The screw will slowly back out. Hard to explain. LOL
 
I thought of heating the carb, but at the time I did not had money so I had to use my Mexican ingenuity, and to try to answer the question. Heat would expand almost any metal, and freezing a metal would shrink it. And since the carb material is very soft it would make the extraction of the pilot screw very easy. Ups yes I meant
Yes turn it in and out, repeatedly bumming the stuck stop. The screw will start working its way out little by little. May be a long process.
My English is not that good.
The reason I had to that is because when I tried to take the pilot screw out, some of the metal shavings when inside the tread. It got stuck and since I kept trying it messed the screw. So I had to user the drill and when I took it out I notice the thread was bad.
 
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