• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

stuck screws-

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
More accurately: smoothed screw heads. Lemme back up some...

I bought my GS550L at the end of Sept '02, and taught myself how to ride in 2 weeks. All was good, having a grand ol' time putting about town. From then til now, I've replaced the speedo cable, which has broken on me again almost exactly 1k miles later (at some point I'll replace that... moving on...)

End of December, my bike would need a charge / jump more often than not to get going. *I read the Stator Papers* (proud of me?) and determined the stator had died, and prolly took the regulator with it. Got replacement parts Friday 1/31/03, and went to work.
  • Figured I'd change the oil and filter while I was at it. When I got the oil plug bolt out, there was at least a turn and a half worth of oil pan threading still in the bolt. Putting the bolt back in (after cleaning the threads) was discomfortingly easy; I fear I have stripped the hole even further...
  • Regulator - the new one has a barrel shaped plug for ground, the old one had an eyelet. I can rig / fix that, no prob.
  • Stator - Here is where I am stuck, bad. The phillips-head screws on the stator cover are all rounded off / smoothed out so that a screwdriver can't get any purchase on them.
What I need to do is pretty straight forward. Money is a primary concern, and time right after it. If I could get some answers to these questions, it will save me some of both:
  • Is there anything I can use to seal the oil plug bolt? I can always change the oil via the filter assembly. Not the best option, but at least it's getting it changed. I understand the best option is to replace the oil pan entirely, but that is a cost I can't afford right now.
  • Does *anyone* have any idea how to get the screws out? Preferably without destroying them, but if replacements are easily found / inexpensive, I'm okay with that.

This is my tale of woe... any help would be so greatly appreciated! Thanks a million in advance-

Revdc5
 
You could try some teflon tape (the white tape used for gas and water pipes) for the oil plug bolt. Had the same problem with the GS550. Works pretty well. Make sure to put some grease on the tape before you turn the bolt back in.

As for the screws: try to get an impact screwdriver. Perhaps you know somebody who owns one. In addition to this you can heat the screws with a small torch. Be very careful though! If you overheat the aluminum, it will melt!
I would try to get some allen head bolts to replace the old screws. They are normal 6 mm threaded bolts, non standard lengths though. Get some slightly longer standard sized bolts, and cut them to the right size.
 
stripped screws

stripped screws

As for the oil pan bolt, that is a toughy, my advice would be go snag one from a junk yard, I had the same problem and that is waht I did. However I did ride around for a couple of months with the tripped bolt using some rubber washers, just remember though if this cheapy solution fails, you will loose all the oil in the system, and you better watch that oil light!!!

As for removeing the stator screws, try using a pair of vise grip pliers (the locking kind), lock the hell out of them on the side of the bolt, and I mean clamp down like crazy! then try to turn them, if not I would drill the center and use a "screw extractor" kit, you can find these at all auto parts stores for like 10 bucks. The screws can probably be replaced as I believe they are common, just try a hardware store!

Good luck!
 
You got the answers for the oil pan.

For the bolts....if you reach desperation, you can try vice grips...use the brand name, not a made in? variety. The originals don't have a much side slip.

Before that you can try a hack saw blade and carefully cut a slot across the middle of each bolt. Then use a standard screwdriver or an impact driver to remove.

Replace all bolts.

Note that the bolts are different lengths....keep a record of sizes for each position.
 
Re: stuck screws-

For removing the reamed screw heads in the stator cover, you can take a dremel tool with a cutoff disk and cut a slot in the screw head so you can use a plain slotted screwdriver. You will have the best luck if you have a hand held hammer driven inpact driver.

Earl
 
*YOU FOLKS RULE!*

:D :D :D

I knew someone would have an answer! Thanks a million again! I can't wait to give it another try!

Revdc5
 
A Friend of mine bottomed out the oil pan in his car and tweeked the screw pretty bad... He cleaned it up real good and used silicone sealer to stop any leaks.. It worked real good...
 
emergency repair look in auto supply store for maybe an oversized self tapping plug, rubber plug insert with drain bolt or expandable rubber freeze plug? Best repair is to remove the oil pan and have a heliCoil installed to repair the threads. Using the more common #2 phillips will almost guarantee stripped bolts. As to the bolts you can use a large punch & hammer and flatten the bolt to reform the slot and use hand held impact WITH the correct #3 phillips. Personally I use a large #3 phillips screwdriver and a pair of channel lock pliers for turning leverage. Last resort just drill thru the bolt head and remove the bolt after the cover is removed
 
My oil pan bolt had been stripped, then helicoiled crookedly so the head of the bolt didn't seal against the pan. It was a mess.

I also have a 4 into 1 exhaust which gets in the way of the oil drain plug.

A friend took the pan and machined a flat area just left and forward of the drain hole and drilled a new hole, bolted on a piece of stainless steel, and tapped the stainless plate for a new plug location. Then I just sealed up the old hole.

If you go the helicoil option have it done well as the plate is quite thin and there is only about three or four threads for the bolt to grip.

Kim
 
JoJo mentioned an impact screwdriver in the first post. Tou should get one so you don't strip screws in the future. I got one at an automotive store for $25 (Canadian) but I saw a cheaper one in walmart for $10.;

Good luck!
 
You should as you have time, need, and money replace phillips head bolts with allen head, actually called socket caps. Stainless socket caps in the sizes needed for most of the motor covers and such run anywhere from 45 cents to about 80 cents for bigger sizes. Anytime I work on my bike I do just that. Even the float bowls on my carbs now have socket caps. Next I'm going to do my engine covers. I figure for around $20 I can replace them all with stainless socket caps. I already have hex heads so it's not a priority.

The idea of slotting the heads so you can use a standard screwdriver is what I would try first. It has worked for me in the past. You should also use some anti-seize compound on the bolts when you replace them. This keeps the chemical reaction that takes place between aluminum and steel from causing the bolts to get stuck in the first place.

When you do get the stator cover off you are going to need the impact driver. The bolts holding the stator in place have thread lock on them and are a bear to get out.
 
Well shoot folks, it didn't work. I picked up a screw extraction set, and snapped the extractor on the first screw I worked on. Yay me.

I simply don't have the money to take it into a shop to have them do it, not to mention I have no way of getting it there. I guess she has run for the last time...

Anyone interested in a GS550 for parts? Any reasonable offer considered. Have to come get it tho...
 
Before you sell your bike, try a bigger bit, drill off all the screw heads, remove cover and try with a real pair of vise grips to turn it out. Hitting the stud with a hammer while unloosening it will break them loose. Good luck.
 
Before you sell your bike, try a bigger bit, drill off all the screw heads, remove cover and try with a real pair of vise grips to turn it out. Hitting the stud with a hammer while unloosening it will break them loose. Good luck.
 
The simplest way is to drill the heads off the screws and take the 'studs' out after the cover is off. Sounds butcherish but it works. Butcherish?? Is that a word??
 
Yeah it sound like total destruction, but as soon as the bit gets thru the head you stop drilling and the bit never really hits the cover. Bit size would be next size over the size of the shaft part of the screw youa drilling out.
 
Or you can try what I had to do to get the screws out of my GT.

Take a flat head screwdriver and at an angle to the screw, hit the driver with a hammer, to the left. If you do this enough and at the right angle eventually the screw should break loose and start to turn out.

Good Luck
 
See, never get frustrated enough to sell it, just take a breath, search in the forum, or ask a question, other options will probably follow. Most people are willing to voice what has worked best for them in their own personal experience. That is what makes this site work, there is a vast amount of experience here and the minds are always working.
 
Thanks again all for the great suggestions, I have been trying them all!

Folks that know me in real life are very aware I am not a patient person when it comes to things mechanical. :oops: I try, though....

I had been thinking about 'upgrading' my ride, this little incident has just moved it forward. I am going to keep working on it to get it running; aside from this, the bike has always treated me well and it would break my heart (in a sense) to not have her running again-

In an effort to prevent me from doing more damage trying to fix her, any idea what size drill bit I need to use to take the screw heads off? I do have a replacement cover if it comes to that, but I sure would like to use the original one... I'll keep y'all up to date as the saga continues... :lol:
 
Please do as Earl suggested, beg-borrow-buy or steal a Dremel tool and just cut off the heads. You will do less damage to the case than if you drill off center. Then replace them with allen head bolts. For the pan, use a rubber expanding oil plug, it pushes up into the hole and will have a 1/4 inch bolt inside you snug down to expand it into the hole nice and tight. They last forever and don't leak.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top