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stuck spark plug / compression check

  • Thread starter Thread starter crapidriver
  • Start date Start date
C

crapidriver

Guest
I recently started work on a 1980 GS 850 as a total newbie. I was told it had low compression and didn't start. I adjusted the valves, got a new battery and plugs and put it all back together. It turns over, but still won't start. I went to pull one of the plugs out, and it won't budge, no matter how hard I crank with a ratchet.
I have two sets of questions:
1.Why are the plugs stuck, and how do I get them unstuck?
2. What should be my next course of action? Can I check compression if the engine doesn't start? Are there other adjustments I can make or things I can check before I start taking apart the whole top end?
 
sounds to me like the head is stripped..is this an inboard or outboard cylinder..Outboatd one i would take a flat tip screwdriver and apply up ward pressure as i turned the plug with an open end wrench.. Inboard one i would grab it with a pair of needle nose vice grips and turn and pull out at the same time. Probably have to remove the tank to do this..Once its out go to Nappa and get thier spark plug thread repair kit. It comes wth a tap and 3 different inserts to place in the head once its retapped. I did this on number 3 in my 78 1000 c and it can be done right on the bike. Heres the process;;

1..Take off the points cover and get a wrench that fits the big nut.
2..Put a screwdriver in the plug hole and use the wrench to turn the engine till the piston is at half way down the cylinder..this allows room to retap the hole with the supplied tap.
3.. Run tap into the plug hole using back and forth method.
4..blow the cylinder out really really well with a compressor.
5..suck any chips up from around the hole with a shop vac.
6..install the LONGEST thread adapter on a plug with good threads and thread it into the newly retapped hole. tighten as you normally would ..Very important here to use the plug to install the new thread adapter!!! do this exactly as i said...trust me here!!!!
7..remove the plug leaving the sleeve in the cylinder.
8..follow the intstructions about gently peening over the lock tabs with the supplied tool..tap it into the insert as stated with a medium kind of smack..If its an inside cylinder put the tool in and then put a log socket extention on the top of the tool so you can get a good smack at it..youll see what i mean and your basically done . shouldnt take more than an hr and theres a brand new plug thread in the head..just like new!!! any questions call me when your doing it and i will help you right on the phone in real time..really just call!!!

And before the resident other geniuses chime in about dont do that cuz your gonna get aluminum chips in the cylinder...well there are already shavings in the cylider from the threads..and secondly some will remain in the cylinder even after you blow the cylinder with the air..no biggy. I started the bike and revved it up to around 5 grand a few times and watched a few chips go flying right out the exhaust..didnt hurt a thing!!!
 
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I am looking at my kit package right now..Its called SAVE A THREAD. Part number 770-3232 SIZE:M14x1.25 "Repairs stripped spark plug hole threads"
. works on taperseat and gasketed plugs
.works on aluminum and cast iron
.no drilling required
.quick..easy.and permanent
Made by Heli Coil company
 
notsure Chuck but he said it wont budge, not that it turns round and round and doesn't come out. Sounds like it might just be stuck and he either ;
1- needs a bigger ratchet or
2- needs to be stronger
may be spray with some penetrating oil and let soak a-bit
 
OOPS I clearly DID misread the post..Well if he does happen to strip it, or if anyone else needs this info then here it is.. I got an eye dr exam scheduled for this friday. I have been doing that a lot lately..i will humbly no longer respond to threads unless my head is out of my azz.
 
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OK, never mind about the spark plugs, I was just being to gentle. Thanks for the advice anyway.
I would still like some help figuring out hat to do next though. Can I get a good compression check without the engine running? Should I maybe try adjusting the idle?
 
Do you have a good battery? Were the carbs properly cleaned? Are all of your fuses good? Have you looked through the stator papers and verified those settings?

When you say you checked the valves, what size shims are in there?
 
Skip the compression check. Just forget about it for a while. And if I were you, I'd also leave the stuck plug/plugs in place for now. Spritz some PB Blaster or Kroil in there, but don't yoink on the plugs just yet.

Compression is very, very rarely the problem when a bike won't start and run. A GS850 is very difficult to actually wear out.

Go through the list from Basscliff with NO CHEATING, starting with completely disassembling and properly cleaning the carbs.
 
Sorry, I should be giving more information on what I've been doing:

Carbs: I cleaned and rebuilt one of them, but it didn't seem to be dirty to me and the rings seemed like they were in good shape. Should I be seeing any build-up in there or should I be cleaning them all regardless of if I see anything?
I also changed the intake o-rings and one of the boots which was dried up and broke

Stator: I did the first two tests on BassCliff's stator check, but couldn't do the third because I can't start the bike.

Electrical/charging: I got a new battery and the fuses are good. The bike does turn on and turn over. The turn-signal and horn don't seem to be connected, but I figured I could worry about that later. right?

valves: I kept kind of haphazard notes on the valve shims I changed, but I think these are the sizes I ended up putting in: 2.75, 2.65, 2.55x, 2.50, 2.70, 2.65, 2.75, 2.65
and the adjusted clearances in the same order: .08, .05, .04, .07, .04, .08, .04, .04

airbox: haven't really done anything, probably should replace the weatherproofing and replace the filter today. How do I know if I should replace the boots?

hope that paints a better picture
 
Clean the carbs by fully tearing down and dipping each one for a minimum of 24 hours each. There are passageways you cannot see that can become clogged.

Are you 100% positive that all of your fuses are good? Not by visual check but by a power light or multimeter?

I'd replace the filter now and make sure it is properly sealed. Unless the intake boots are visibly cracked the only other way you can tell is how pliable they are. I'd change them if they are that bad.
 
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Cranks but won't run? Carbs are clean you say?
Is there fuel in the float bowls?
Do you have spark at the spark plugs?
 
crapidriver said:
Carbs: I cleaned and rebuilt one of them, but it didn't seem to be dirty to me and the rings seemed like they were in good shape. Should I be seeing any build-up in there or should I be cleaning them all regardless of if I see anything?
Click to expand...

Yes.You should be cleaning them in the manner described. A peek at them doesn't get it.

You should also very that you have spark.

Since you got the plugs out, you might as well replace them.

The reason everyone continuously points out the carbs, is because that is usually the problem.
 
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