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Studs for oil filter cover - stripped

  • Thread starter Thread starter bandsite
  • Start date Start date
B

bandsite

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Hi. I've got a 1982 GS650GL for which I was changing the oil for thie first time since I've owned the bike only a week. I think 2 of 3 studs for the oil filter cover are stripped as the nuts, which are about 1/3 of the way on, turn but do not tighten or loosen.

I suppose I can use a nut splitter to get the nuts off, but what about the studs themselves.

Remove and replace, but how are they fastened in the first place?

Rethread, but how many threads per inch?

I assume everything is metric, right?

Thanks for any help you can offer.
Greg
 
use some vise grips to pull the studs out. then bring them to the hard ware store and get the same size bolts. use them to hold the cover on. that or www.bikebandit.com
 
Those studs are still available. You should be able to order them at your local Suzuki shop, or at www.bikebandit.com. Better get the nuts too, while you're at it.
 
When you put the new studs in, use a little threadlock on the engine side, that way when the next oil change rolls around the nut will come off instead of screwing the stud out. Careful not to overtighten, they are only 6mm, stripping the threads in the crankcase can be a PITA.
 
Ace and "Do It Best" hardware stores stock the studs and nuts you'll need. IMHO, they are far better quality and hardness than the originals, so I don't know why you would want to order more of the same cheez-wiz studs from Suzuki.

The threads are 6mm X 1.0mm pitch. I forget the length, but bring an old stud with you and get the one that's a bit longer. You'll also need to pick up three 6mm nuts -- I use stainless steel nuts with the nylon insert so that I know they'll stay on and I won't be tempted to over tighten them.

To install the studs, thread on two nuts and jam them against each other, then use those to turn the studs. You'll want to clean out the threads in the case with brake cleaner and use thread locker, too.

You can use bolts once or twice, but you really need to replace the studs ASAP, since the aluminum threads in the block will wear out pretty quickly. After a couple of more oil changes, they could easily strip out and that is Not Good At All. In other words, the function of the steel studs is simply to avoid undue wear on the rather small and delicate threads in the aluminum case.
 
Could you just get a long stick of all-thread and cut it to the right lengths? I've done that a few times for various studs on a V8.
 
Thanks for the info!

I did pick up several SS 6mmx1.0mm pitch nuts from Ace today. If I can get the nuts off with my dremel later and get the old studs out, i'll do the same with them tomorrow.

I've tried a nut splitter, but all the ones available are too large. I'm recharging my dremel now, but even that cutting wheel looks too large. I'm hopping to cut through the nut slightly and jimmy it apart with a small screwdriver.

Thanks again,
Greg

bwringer said:
Ace and "Do It Best" hardware stores stock the studs and nuts you'll need. IMHO, they are far better quality and hardness than the originals, so I don't know why you would want to order more of the same cheez-wiz studs from Suzuki.

The threads are 6mm X 1.0mm pitch. I forget the length, but bring an old stud with you and get the one that's a bit longer. You'll also need to pick up three 6mm nuts -- I use stainless steel nuts with the nylon insert so that I know they'll stay on and I won't be tempted to over tighten them.

To install the studs, thread on two nuts and jam them against each other, then use those to turn the studs. You'll want to clean out the threads in the case with brake cleaner and use thread locker, too.

You can use bolts once or twice, but you really need to replace the studs ASAP, since the aluminum threads in the block will wear out pretty quickly. After a couple of more oil changes, they could easily strip out and that is Not Good At All. In other words, the function of the steel studs is simply to avoid undue wear on the rather small and delicate threads in the aluminum case.
Click to expand...
 
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