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Suzuki 09930-34930 rotor remover tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter V84ME
  • Start date Start date
V

V84ME

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My starter has finally stopped making the occasional clunk, and is now virtually silent. After pulling the cover, I see the one way starter clutch ring gear now spins freely in both directions. Anyone out there with the starter clutch removal tool for a 85 GS1150 for sale, rent or borrow?
 
My starter has finally stopped making the occasional clunk, and is now virtually silent. After pulling the cover, I see the one way starter clutch ring gear now spins freely in both directions. Anyone out there with the starter clutch removal tool for a 85 GS1150 for sale, rent or borrow?
................... hi on my 1980 gs1000e,,, i used a 16mm hex head set screw ,thats a 16mm bolt but with thread all the way along and it screwed into the hub ,,and tightened up at the end of the crank and the starter clutch just dropped off no bashing ar screaming at all regards oldgrumpy
 
still need tool

still need tool

OK, so no one has a tool for rent/buy or borrow. Fastenal has a M30 x 1.5 nut that should thread onto the rotor, and with my 3 arm puller, I'll give it a pull. The Suzuki tool for the 1150 is over $75, but there is a UK Ebay seller for around $20 that might ship it to the US if the nut and puller fails.
 
OK, so no one has a tool for rent/buy or borrow. Fastenal has a M30 x 1.5 nut that should thread onto the rotor, and with my 3 arm puller, I'll give it a pull. The Suzuki tool for the 1150 is over $75, but there is a UK Ebay seller for around $20 that might ship it to the US if the nut and puller fails.

I have about $70 in my tool as the one I bought stripped and I had to fix it. They are about $40 on line.

picture.php
 
large taper=small puller.
small taper=large puller.
just go to suzuki and order an OEM..after market pullers are trash.
 
My alternate plan of using a M30x1.5 nut went south since the only fast low cost source of a class 10 nut turnedd out to NOT have any stock, and needed to re-order from the manufacture. Instead, I found Bikemaster had a puller thru Amazon that had free shipping for under $30. It could be at my home in a week. In a way, I was looking forward to welding a tube to the nut, welding in a nut for the bolt, and having a homebuilt tool.
 
I bought a motion pro one, used it once. No muss, No fuss, Easy money
 
a small taper GS will pop right off.
a large taper on the other hand will destroy pullers one after another sometimes.
many years ago i remember driving around in my truck with my 1150 in the back.
went from dealership to dealership as they pulled the thread out of there puller's.
finally a guy came out with a propane torch and then hit it with the impact and POP! guy didn't charge me dime...the good old days!
i had destroyed my rotor with a jaw puller so even back then it cost me a few hundred to get my bike back together...
lesson learned on pullers:)
 
a small taper GS will pop right off.
a large taper on the other hand will destroy pullers one after another sometimes.
many years ago i remember driving around in my truck with my 1150 in the back.
went from dealership to dealership as they pulled the thread out of there puller's.
finally a guy came out with a propane torch and then hit it with the impact and POP! guy didn't charge me dime...the good old days!
i had destroyed my rotor with a jaw puller so even back then it cost me a few hundred to get my bike back together...
lesson learned on pullers:)

Mapp gas is better and stay on the hub not the magnets.
 
Puller for sale

Puller for sale

The puller showed up yesterday, and after coating the 16mm screw threads with moly, installed it and ran the 16mm screw up to 100 ft-lb torque with out success. I took it of, and noticed the 16mm thread was a little sticky at the end. Most likely I should have chamfered the 16mm threads prior to use. I applied a propane torch for 10 seconds at top, bottom, right and left, gave it a couple of light taps, and installed the puller. Being frustrated, I planned to torque it right up to yield, and let it sit overnight. At what felt like 10-20 ft-lbs, the rotor started to come off.

Now to figure out why the clutch would not engage. It works every time on the bench.
 
Ok, looks like I gotta do this myself now as my seal on that side of the crank is tweaked and now I'm concerned it won't last.

After removing the bolt that holds the rotor magnet assembly on, can you just run a long 1.5mm pitch bolt into the rotor threads or is there something else besides the bolt that's needed? BTW, this is on an '82 550.

Thanks.
 
The rotor is a male M30 x 1.5, with only a total thead depth of a little over 1/4". Most likely, I'll be able to part with my puller in a few more days, after my new wear parts arrive, and I know the starter clutch works.
 
Ok with some heat applied, I put in my 1.5mm bolt and brought it to just over 50 lbs foot of torque, the factory rating. Then I have the end of the bolt a few healthy whacks with a hammer and bingo, off it came. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
UpdaTE

UpdaTE

The starter clutch springs and rollers finally came in yesterday, almost 3 weeks after I ordered them online from a site that listed them "on hand". It took all of 15 minutes to install the parts, and the bike lives again!

It looks like the old springs had taken a 20% compression set, and the rollers had between .020-.030 wear on the diameter. The old rollers were visibly unevenly worn.
 
The starter clutch springs and rollers finally came in yesterday, almost 3 weeks after I ordered them online from a site that listed them "on hand". It took all of 15 minutes to install the parts, and the bike lives again!

It looks like the old springs had taken a 20% compression set, and the rollers had between .020-.030 wear on the diameter. The old rollers were visibly unevenly worn.

The roller are not the only wear parts, the main boss OD wears as well (what the rollers run on).
 
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