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Suzuki GS 6/550 Yes, 672 block and pistons on a 550 cases..

Nerobro

Forum Mentor
It's been done.

Skreemer and I have made the GS650 head, block, and pistons fit on a GS550 crank and block.

There's a lot more involved than originally thought.

First, the block wouldn't fit down into the crankcase. The cylinder liners don't actually touch down in thecrankcase so it was a matter of trial and error to find out where the interferece was.

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As you can see... some of the interference was pretty severe.

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Look carefully and you can see where we ground casting flash off of the inside of bore 2, and Skreemer is working on bore 3

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Super Scary... Skreemer with a dremmel. He's not quite the artist as I, but he's competant :-) And look... I let him inside my engine with that thing.

It involved a LOT of grinding. none of it was all that deep, just a lot of it. If I did it again, I'd split the cases, pull the headstuds, and have a machine shop bore the crankcase. But that was well beyond my budget ;-)

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Testfitting. This was probally our 4th or 5th fitting of the block.

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This is one of our last goes at making clearance. An artist at work... you can't see the work. ;-)

Seccond, much to our chagrin, the headgasket is different on the 650 and 550. so I had to reuse the 650 headgasket. I will be buying 650 headgaskets from here on out. Here's the reason why... The 550 uses an o-ring to seal the chaincase. The 650 just uses the soft fiber gasket. the 650 headgasket also has integrated oil gallery seals. The 550 uses seperate seals.

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Finally, the timing chain was a pain in the butt. I did not realize that the 650 crank has more teeth on the crank sprocket, so that the camshafts use larger sprockets as well. Well, thats' not the whole story really. Lets just say that the discovery process led to me almost bending a valve. And that's an "I hope" I didn't bend a valve.

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We swapped the sprockets from the 550 onto the 650's camshafts. And after following the directions in the book, managed to sucessfully time the 6/550 motor.

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As it stands, the engine is now in my 1980 GS550E, and will crank over. And makes spark. Attaching the carbs is anotehr story. The carbs I'm tyring to put on are the carbs that came WITH THE ENGINE, but appear to be almost 1/2" to narrow. We're chalking that up to time hardening the carb boots. And the boots appear not to match up well with the ports in the head. We're going to put my 550 boots on it and see if that corrects the problem. My 550 boots are also much softer and more supple.

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We found out that the boots that came on that head. are NOT gs650 or 550 boots. We aren't sure WHAT they they really are. They're damned simmilar though.

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If you can identify these, we'd like to sell them. They're in good shape if a little stiff. No cracks at all.

so.. yeah. You CAN fit a 673cc top end onto a 550 bottom end.

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549cc piston versus 673cc piston

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Aw.. .look It's all dressed up.

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working furiously last night before we discoverd the carb boot issue.
 
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Two words.


It runs.

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Post shakedown runs.

The thing pulls like a freight train now. I'm excited :-)
 
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Sweet work men!!! I love the indoor/outdoor driveway lighting and the way the other three bikes are hanging around close waiting for their buddy to come back to life. I just pray that you did your best to contain all the material you dremmeled (new verb??) off the upper case from falling into the motor or at least sprayed it down with brake cleaner and changed the oil.

Cool job regardless.

Mark
 
We did the best we could on the aluminum shavings issue. WE stuffed rags in, we wiped up all that we didnt' catch with rags. And we are going to flush two gallons of oil through it in the next two days.
 
all pics that aren't obviously in the driveway were taken as we worked in the basement... We have a whole GS550 down there we basically used for donor parts and as a stand while we worked on the engine... Dang those motors are heavey getting em up and down the stairs.
 
Yeah tell me about it. I took my bike apart and tossed the motor into the basement by myself the first christmas after I got the turbo kit. It wasnt even my house either... I was renting a room from someone. Just about took over the basement with 750/1000 parts.

Good plan with the rags. If you have the time just drop the pan and inspect, or carefully clean out the bottom of the oil filter cavity to ensure all the bits are out. A magnetic drain plug wont catch the non magnetic stuff and I'd hate to see a new project motor pooched due to shavings.

What a cool project. :D

Mark
 
when are we gonna get a full step-by-step how-to writeup?
 
Very cool, now don't tell anyone and race some people with bigger bikes :lol:
 
how to put a 650 top end on a 550 bottom.

how to put a 650 top end on a 550 bottom.

We already know step 1.

Step 2: Collect the correct parts.

You will need everything from the crankcase up from a GS650. Our particular set came from a 1982 GS650GLX. This includes, the complete head, camshafts, pistons and block. All these parts should be cleaned, or at least kept clean from the time of removal, to instalation.

You "should" get a GS650 headgasket, wristpin retaining clips, valve cover gasket, and base gasket. The 550 headgasket WILL NOT WORK with the GS650 head. If you have a 550 base gasket, it can be trimmed to fit the 650 block. I also reccomend picking up a dynojet GS650 jet kit, and the 650 carbs that go with the GS650. These however, are "shoulds." And we "shouldn't" have tried this.

Another tip. To remove the head, you do need to remove the camshafts.

Step 3: Strip your 550.

Be carefull though. There are parts you will need to reuse. The most important parts you need are the camshaft sprockets. You should also get the camchain guides. In our case, you'll need the intake boots as well. While removing the pistons, be sure to stuff rags around the rods to prevent the wristpin clips from finding a comfortable new home in your primary drive gears. (aka, don't drop them in)

If however, you're stupid, and were brave enough to try it without, head down to your local harbor freight and get a magnetic retrival tool. With that you can fish out the wristpin retaining clips. As they are spring steel. The crankcase is aluminum, so while fishing in the bottom of the crankcase you won't run into anything else magnetic. As an added tip. In crankcase hole number 4. Where the primary gear is. The spring clip will settle to the BOTTOM of that opening. Which is only accessable from the side of the hole nearest the transmission, and it is much deeper than the other holes. Don't ask how I know.........

The smartest way of doing this is to go ahead and completely disassemble the bottom end. Split the cases, remove the crankshaft and work on a workbench. This will also let you inspect transmission dogs, and shift forks. To do this you will need to buy a complete set of oil seals as well. (shifter, transmission output, timing and clutch pushrod seal.)

Now you're left with a crankcase, and a bunch of studs where your cylinders and pistons should be. This is exactly what we want.

Step 4: Test fitting

slide your 650 block down over the studs. It will stop less than half an inch into the block. you'll need to take care.. and well.. in our case.. hammer (with a plastic hammer) the block down into the crankcase. This will leave marks on the crankcase where the aluminum and the steel liners intersect. The cylinder liners are very strong. The cast aluminum of the crankcase, is actually quite soft.

Pull the block off, and this should give you an indication of the aeras you'll need to grind. in our case, there were two sharp protusions in holes 1 and 4. And simmilar casting flash on the insides of holes 2 and 3. Wiping the inside of each crankcase opening with machinists blue will help you identify where the block rubs when you slip it in.

You will need to remove as much as 1/16" of material from holes 1 and 4. holes two and three didn't need much at all.

You're done when the block slides easily down on the crankcase. it shouldn't require any force for it to settle down on the block.

Now, you're asking... how do I remove the material. "I" used a dremmel. Well "we" used a dremmel. We suffed rags down the holes in the crankcase, and the rags caught most of the stuff that came from the grinding. I intentionally chose one of the softer "peach" colored grinding stones that came with my dremmel becuase it's grit is larger. And being larger anything that did break free, and was missed by our rags and cleanup efforts should be caught by the oil filter. The grit you'll get off of sanding drums or the green type grinding wheels won't afford you this luxury.

Ideally we should have also used a wet-dry vac right in the crankcase hole we were grinding in as that will also help evacuate swarf. We did not have one of those at our disposal. So we just took our time with cleanup. Another thing to keep in mind... The crankcase is the end of the road for oil. That's where oil gets picked up on the way to the oil filter. Anything that DOES get in the crankcase, will be picked up by the filter. This is also soft, cast, aluminum, and all of the moving parts inside our motors are steel.

As it stands, my largest worries are some aluminum shavings getting into any of the moving oil seals, or them doing actual damage to the pistons.... But time will tell on that one. None of this is a worry if you split the cases, but I digress.

Step 5: Camshafts.

Use the 550 cams and sprockets in the 650 head. Be sure to do the valve tolerances before you button it up completely.

Step 6: Reassembly.

Everything from here on out, is exactly as the clymer or haynes manual describes. Except for one little ceveat. You can't use the 550 headgasket. The 650 head is not milled to take the sealing "o"-ring around the cam tunnel. Also hte 550 headgasket is several millimeters to small for the 650 pistons, and will cause you many headaches. From here on out, your bike is for all intents and purposes a GS650 from the crankcase up.

Final thoughts.... if you use the 550 carbs, you will need to rejet. There are four copper washers, those go under the outside 4 head bolts. The rear two head stud cavities are used to supply oil to the head, the front two do the same thing. The copper washer is there to seal it.

If you want to raise your compression ratio, you could use the 550 head... I"m not sure what that will put you to, but I wouldn't want to run on the street with much more compression than we have already.

*edited to correct camshaft error*
 
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Re: how to put a 650 top end on a 550 bottom.

Re: how to put a 650 top end on a 550 bottom.

8) I'll have to print it out and find a donor 650 now.
 
DOODS!!!!!!

This is the ultimate ROCK ON! 8)

Great job guys. Really. Never stop!
 
Well I got to ride the mutant and yes, its not a 550 anymore by any means. Pulls very....very hard and gets light up front right off the line easily. I can attest (as I am also a 550 owner) that this "550" is a totally new beast. Same weight, extra ?? horsepower and torque. Adding the second disk up front was also a nice bonus. Pretty darn cool...

....now if we can just get these guys to change some fork seals to go along with the numerous deep engine swaps and other heavy duty wrenching sessions... :lol: :twisted: 8)
 
Both Nerobro and I need a carb synch desperately. I'm probably going to place an order tonight for some parts that need to be replaced. This weekend for me will be a full wrenching weekend. There's space in the drive way if anyone wants to join us... Maybe bug Joe for some space? There was also a discussion on shimming valves... I know mine are lock nuts not shimmed so mine are pretty easy. Pick a site and drop em off on thursday and then cage it over on saturday?
 
I neeeeeeeed to do my shims, and a resynch would be nice also. I have to figure out this weekend, school and studies and lotsa stuff going on. Lemme do some research....
 
This is a very interesting project. Is the stroke of the 550 the same as the 650?
Thanks for sharing.

Kevan
GS750
182,000kms
 
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