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sync problems!

  • Thread starter Thread starter tconroy
  • Start date Start date
T

tconroy

Guest
When i hook up my sync tool i cant seem to keep an idle long enough to do any setting adjustment but when i have the tank on everything is fine and yes I did plug my vacumn line.is it because the fuel line is open? i dont have an auxillary fuel tank so Im hoping that's the problem. Any suggestions??????
 
Get some extra hose, and use your gas tank as an auxilary tank. Set it up high enough on your workbench so it will drain properly. No way can you do the sync just with the gas in float bowls at least in my experience. Also use a couple of fans to keep things cool.
 
mark said:
Get some extra hose, and use your gas tank as an auxilary tank. Set it up high enough on your workbench so it will drain properly. No way can you do the sync just with the gas in float bowls at least in my experience. Also use a couple of fans to keep things cool.
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About 4 feet of 5/16 should do the trick, make sure that the petcock is in the PRIME position, also.

Good luck Tim...pm if you want.
 
i tried putting a small funnel in the fuel line and pouring gas in but it sucks it down quick and then the idle soars!Where can i get and peice to go inbetween the carb fuel line and the aux. fuel line to splice them together?When I had a smaller fuel line and an inline fuel filter it did not do this.
 
I use about three feet of 5/16 fuel line that has a two way hose connector on it so I don't have to unhook the fuel line to the carb T. I do the same with a 1/4 inch vacuum line for the petcock. I use my large plastic trash can to put my fuel tank on.
As Earl said blow a fan on your headers so the bike doesn't overheat. It will mess up your readings when operating under normal temps.
 
I use an empty 1 quart bottle that gear lube comes in with a small hole drilled in the bottom of the container, put your finger over the hole fill with gas, screw the cap on, attach the fuel line to the nipple, flip it over and hang it from the bars.
 
I got the fuel ine and in line connector but cant I just go ahead and plug the vacumn line with a golf tee?
 
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that you should do the sync with the bike at around 3K RPM. To prevent the bike from overheating you will need some fans blowing onto the front of the engine. Use the gnurled idle knob, below the carbs, to set the idle speed up.

Brad bt
 
tconroy said:
I got the fuel ine and in line connector but cant I just go ahead and plug the vacumn line with a golf tee?
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As long as you get a good seal-off, you're fine. Vacuum line doesn't need to be plugged in to the tank. Just keep your tank on "prime" when you want gas flowing.
 
bradleymaynar said:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that you should do the sync with the bike at around 3K RPM. To prevent the bike from overheating you will need some fans blowing onto the front of the engine. Use the gnurled idle knob, below the carbs, to set the idle speed up.

Brad bt
Click to expand...

the last time I did a sync i had no problems.I have just had the carbs off several times and bought a sync tool so I didnt have to borrow one from a friend.For my bike it is recommend to set idle at 1750 but I choose 2000rpm's cause it settles the mercury down some.I have just done a lot of work to it in the last 2 months.New needle valve seats and o-rings, rebuilt cam chain tensioner and changed fuel lines to get rid of the 1/4" and filter.i was in a hurry when i tried this.Moral or the story is ...get the right stuff and have enough time to do it right!I will let you know the results.I guess I was just lucky the first time when it set quickly with just the fuel in the bowls.
 
tconroy said:
the last time I did a sync i had no problems.I have just had the carbs off several times and bought a sync tool so I didnt have to borrow one from a friend.For my bike it is recommend to set idle at 1750 but I choose 2000rpm's cause it settles the mercury down some.I have just done a lot of work to it in the last 2 months.New needle valve seats and o-rings, rebuilt cam chain tensioner and changed fuel lines to get rid of the 1/4" and filter.i was in a hurry when i tried this.Moral or the story is ...get the right stuff and have enough time to do it right!I will let you know the results.I guess I was just lucky the first time when it set quickly with just the fuel in the bowls.
Click to expand...

My suggestion is, I think, based on the Clymer Manual. However, Clymer also is going by the Suzuki tool which uses air and plastic balls. So, I don't think the RPM value is that important. Another suggestion, perhaps you should run the bike a bit first to get the engine up around normal operation temp, and then try hooking up the sync tool. Less likely that it'll die before you can perform the sync.

And, yes, a bit of patience will pay off. ;)

Brad bt
 
i did run the bike .i have the blisters to prove it!i wish there was a way to put the brass tubes in the boots without burning the ##$$ out of your hand.The good thing is when it revs up to 4 grand the merc doesnt climb high enough to get sucked into the engine so I think I will hook it up first, then get my fans going and fuel line hooked up Then set them.At least that way i can wait till it warms up and idles correctly.Sometime you get in a hurry and wind up putting your foot in your mouth.I should know better!Thanks for your advice,I appreicate it.I also got my info about the 1750 rpm's from my clymers manual and it shows the merc carb tool like i got.
 
You may want to try some rubber caps over the sycn tubes. That way you only need to pull the plugs in order to attach the manometer lines. It has been mentioned before about leaving the tubes in place and using caps on the sync tubes before. The only downfall is that there is always the possibility of losing the caps while riding.

Brad bt
 
Whatever fuel source you use, it must be vented as well as the tank provides.
Mechanics gloves are nice and grippy and make a perfect stocking stuffer.:wink:
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Whatever fuel source you use, it must be vented as well as the tank provides.
Mechanics gloves are nice and grippy and make a perfect stocking stuffer.:wink:
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So My gas tank with a long fuel line will be fine?I was looking for some caps but cant find them in a hardware store.I think I will get the mechanics glove like you suggested, Keith.The weird thing is I can take my bike apart and rebuild the cam chain tensioner and have it all back together and running in 3 hours but Im having trouble with something as simple as syncing the carbs! Go figure.Also what do the increments on the carb synce gauge mean?My book say's to set the outside carbs 2 1/2 to 3 cfm's higher than the middle.Are the numbers on the stick that start at 2- 4- 6 and so on marked in cfm?In other word's if # 3 reads 10 should I set the outside carbs at 12.5 to 13 on the gauge?It is stock exhaust.
 
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tconroy said:
So My gas tank with a long fuel line will be fine?

Also what do the increments on the carb synce gauge mean?My book say's to set the outside carbs 2 1/2 to 3 cfm's higher than the middle.Are the numbers on the stick that start at 2- 4- 6 and so on marked in cfm?In other word's if # 3 reads 10 should I set the outside carbs at 12.5 to 13 on the gauge?It is stock exhaust.
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Gas tank with a long fuel line is fine. Avoid big dips/loops in the line.
Most gauges use lines marked in centimeters. Most tuners agree you should get the levels to within 2cm of each other (2cm difference from the highest to lowest level). If you can do better, fine, but don't drive yourself crazy with it.
I don't know what tool you're using but I'd assume the "2,4,6" you mentioned are lines measured in cm, roughly 3/4" apart. Sounds like you are correct about how to set your levels for your stock exhaust, adding 2 1/2 to 3cm to what your middle levels are.
 
When I do a synch using a long fuel line on the gas tank, I measure the distance from the bottom edge of the gas tank to the floor when the bike is on the centerstand. I then remove the gas tank and put it on a stool/bench or whatever at that same height. It may not make any actual difference that the fuel head is the exact same height as it would be if on the bike, but it makes me feel better. :-) Be sure to plug the vacuum nipple on the #3 carb when synching and running on the petcock prime setting. I just stick a piece of clear vinyl tubing over the #3 nipple and stick a pencil in the end to plug it. :-)

E.


KEITH KRAUSE said:
Gas tank with a long fuel line is fine. Avoid big dips/loops in the line.
Most gauges use lines marked in centimeters. Most tuners agree you should get the levels to within 2cm of each other (2cm difference from the highest to lowest level). If you can do better, fine, but don't drive yourself crazy with it.
I don't know what tool you're using but I'd assume the "2,4,6" you mentioned are lines measured in cm, roughly 3/4" apart. Sounds like you are correct about how to set your levels for your stock exhaust, adding 2 1/2 to 3cm to what your middle levels are.
Click to expand...
 
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KEITH KRAUSE said:
Gas tank with a long fuel line is fine. Avoid big dips/loops in the line.
Most gauges use lines marked in centimeters. Most tuners agree you should get the levels to within 2cm of each other (2cm difference from the highest to lowest level). If you can do better, fine, but don't drive yourself crazy with it.
I don't know what tool you're using but I'd assume the "2,4,6" you mentioned are lines measured in cm, roughly 3/4" apart. Sounds like you are correct about how to set your levels for your stock exhaust, adding 2 1/2 to 3cm to what your middle levels are.
Click to expand...
Your right Keith.This is just a mercury gauge with cm's marked 3/4" apart.2 cm's= 3/4"s. Thanks guy's for all the help.
 
earlfor said:
When I do a synch using a long fuel line on the gas tank, I measure the distance from the bottom edge of the gas tank to the floor when the bike is on the centerstand. I then remove the gas tank and put it on a stool/bench or whatever at that same height. It may not make any actual difference that the fuel head is the exact same height as it would be if on the bike, but it makes me feel better. :-) Be sure to plug the vacuum nipple on the #3 carb when synching and running on the petcock prime setting. I just stick a piece of clear vinyl tubing over the #3 nipple and stick a pencil in the end to plug it. :-)

E.
Click to expand...
What do you mean the vacumn nipple on #3? I thought all you blocked was the vacumn line on #2,the one that goes to the tank.
 
The vacuum line on the carb that is normally connected to the petcock is blocked off at the carb.

E.


tconroy said:
What do you mean the vacumn nipple on #3? I thought all you blocked was the vacumn line on #2,the one that goes to the tank.
Click to expand...
 
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