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synching question

  • Thread starter Thread starter refeicul
  • Start date Start date
I think I've read that some loosen up the choke cable bracket assembly and push it out of the way while adjusting #2.
 
If it is a set of carbs that I have had on the bench, I loosen the locknut so it's not so hard to do while installed.

They don't really need to be Gorilla-torqued. :o

.
 
well just got back from the test ride... and

still not great. i forgot to plug the vacuum line......

well its still a bit jumpy and a bit smoother. but still cant just dump the throttle and expect head kicking goodness
 
You can't really "dump" the throttle on any of these bikes with "head kicking" results.
shrug2.gif


You can turn it quickly and get very GOOD results, though. :D

Is this on your 850? :-k

If so, keep in mind that, except for the fully-faired and luggage-equipped 1100GK, the 850 was the heaviest bike in the GS lineup.
To make things "worse", it probably has the lowest horsepower per displacement of any of the four-cylinder GSes.
It's going to be smooth power at first, but hang on when it crosses 6000 rpm. :eek:

.
 
yeah........ sigh:cry:

well its still not good then.. still laggy in low rpm but the range got shorter. still a bit jumpy or rough but when it catches up :eek: top end of the revs :cool:

its getting better everytime i take it out.

another quick question. after all the electrical problems were taken care of i rode it and checked the plugs 2 of them had that light browning but still a bit wet. would switching to the hotter plugs help this? im going to get new plugs when i get this syncing down and compare.

i think if i get it i think im going to start a new thread in performance
 
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Nope, stay with the B8ES or equivalent

A "hotter" plug does not burn hotter, it stays hotter
 
too bad i dont live closer to you big t cause of the 850 "project" lol

other than that hey i was just quoting the manual it said wet plugs possibly switch to hotter plugs..

another thing i saw mikuni makes generic intake boots anyone ever try them or know someone who has? i know they wouldent work on my bike cause theres no sync port on them but they might work on another project
 
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"Hotter" plugs are only a band-aid to cover up the real problem.

If you are trying to get some "color" on the plugs, get your mixture right.

If the plugs are wet, they are not firing. Fix the firing problem.

What makes a plug "hotter" or "colder" is not how hot it fires, it's more a matter of how well it dissipates the heat that is generated. A "hotter" plug will stay hotter because it has a longer ceramic insulator before the heat reaches the metal body, where it can sink the heat to the head. A "colder" plug has a shorter insulator, which allows heat to get to the head quicker, resulting in a "colder" plug.

Keep the stock plugs, fix the real problem. :o

.
 
well re stet everything up.. im getting use to taking the tank off with it full again.:oops: well this time i plugged the vacuum line with the seat pin half way in to make sure the pinhole was well covered. and ya #2 was way high:-\\\now everything is as close to textbook as i could get it. we'll see how well it fairs now. nice 30 degree ride with a snowmobile suit:cool:
 
ok just got back from my 40 mile test ride...

what the hell did you guys let me do... this cant be my bike! :eek:

it feels totaly different but in that good warm and squishy way:D

no more huge power jerks. still a bit rough in the mid range. gonna try one more time things may of shifted when i tightend things up

edit: well i was right things shifted. this time i left it running and connected when i tightened things up. test ride 3
 
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well well well.... sigh

bike was not running well at all. someone suggested re-dipping the carbs. did that and replaced all the o-rings. benched synced, but i noticed that #4 wasent closing all the way like the rest, but was just at the foremost bypass so i dident worry about it. tried to sync them up at about 2000rpm i can get them close but as im adjusting #4 its all the way out and i cant get it to go any higher. all i can think of is to bring the rest in to compensate. its ether that or replace the butterfly or spring on #4?? or an i just completely? mad
 
i also saw the #'s on the butterfly's were different. on the originals they say 130 and the replacement carbs are 135 anyone know what that is? i dident see and thing on it in the manual or the carb spec sheet
 
Just a thought, but how are your butterfly shaft bearings, is there not perhaps an air leak there?

I am just trying to get my head around the constantly changing vac.
 
ya i dunno... im at wits end and starting to think about giving up and just getting a newer more reliable bike.

idle is all over the place after the carb rebuild like b4, and stalls out unexpectedly

the only things left is new plugs, timing or rechecking the valves
 
Flyboy said:
Just a thought, but how are your butterfly shaft bearings, is there not perhaps an air leak there?

I am just trying to get my head around the constantly changing vac.
Click to expand...

ya tell me about it. just checked the parts list and babbits(dot)com and i dident see the bearing for the butterfly.. the more and more i think about it the more i go toward timing or valves
 
well this is odd well i pulled the crashbar and sig gen cover and just tried to staticly see my timing with out a light.. i cant find the fire mark for 2-3 i see the numbers 2-3 then after that, T then im back to 1-4... i see the fire mark for 1-4 just like in the manual i see the T... am i crazy? ill have pictures in a bit
 
all righty then well nevermind... ok the o-rings on the intake are 1yr old... timing looks good all thats left is the tappets.. after that im at a loss
 
I don't know if this is possible on motorcycle carbs but on a car carb you can over tighten the screws that hold the body together. This can cause air leaks and tuning would be almost impossible. Another thing is the ambient air temp. is it about the same as the other days you were trying to tune?

Some good info I found might be able to help you.

http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm
 
as of late its been 40-50 degrees for the past 4 weeks during the day when i i have been working on it.

after the rebuild when i fire it up with full choke it revs to 3000+ the carbs are 2 turns out. on the up side it fires somewhat easily but ya thats way higher than b4 it was about 2000ish
 
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