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Synthetic vs conventional oil's effects on stator longevity

Ed, I don't believe the stator contributes very much to the engine oils heat either. It's not that high of a wattage device. What I was wondering is if engine oil against the stator and (or) aluminum cover kept the heat from being transferred, or helped it transfer heat or has little effect on transfer?

It's been shown engine oil has an affect on the epoxy used to hold the winding's in place on the stator. Now is that discoloration caused by a chemical reaction, or heat retention?

Just thinking out loud.
 
tatu said:
I agree, I suspect what contributes stator failure more than anything is infrequent oil changes.
Click to expand...
As a result of the oil's thickening?

What about the decrease in the oil level from evaporation (??) when using a conventional oil?
 
Nessism said:
Even if there were though, I don't think the stator gets much oil thrown on it anyway.
Click to expand...

I bet at 6,000 or 8,000 RPM oil is going everywhere in there, and going very fast.

Not sure how we can find out other than making a cover with a clear window like on Agemax's clutch.
 
Which adds another factor to all this. Does the increase in the flywheels speed contribute to or detract from oil retention in that area?

RichDesmond is correct. The only way to know for certain is through testing.



Sorry all, It's snowing outside, I'm sick and stuck at home waiting on a few parts to breadboard a project.

Beats arguing in off topic!
 
Yeah, less anger and name calling for sure. I just looked at a 550 case, there is a window under the crankshaft, at the level of the raised "floor" of the case under the crankshaft. That's the only acess for oil that I can see to the stator cover, in or out. Is the oil normally pooled up un this area or does it usually run down into the lower area of the oil pan and around the transmission? If it's pooled up it seems like the rotor would sling it everywhere. But the stator sits inside, not outside the rotor. Maybe the flying oil cools the cover and the stator is cooled only by contact with the cover?

I guess I don't know where the oil goes when it's running, except it doesn't hang around by the sight glass.

I also have a 2v 750 engine here that was run low on oil until a piston broke, and some other stuff. I wonder what that stator looks like? I'll find out pretty soon.

Edit, that stator looks just fine, no burning or anything.
 
Last edited:
rustybronco said:
As a result of the oil's thickening?

What about the decrease in the oil level from evaporation (??) when using a conventional oil?
Click to expand...

No I was thinking that the metal particles in the oil that is there causing problems. with magnetism and any route through the varnish.
 
surely Air/oil vapour does circulate. It has to, so close to the flywheel...I have to assume it's about the same temp.
But painting the sidecover black might help transfer heat directly from the stator...maybe more can be done.

Tom203's post here seems to think that the oil makes stator burn worse

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=2024452&postcount=17

however I can't help thinking that the OEM winding insulation itself must be pretty poor to burn before the oil does...and that it should be likely to burn in air, not oil..

and that rustybronco's argument is fine if synth will lower the temperature below that where the insulation does degrade in vapour or liquid form- that need be shown.


Anyways, it's always been a bad idea to be on an aircooled bike sitting in traffic in the summer. Being Happy like Tkent's bikes are and hopefully mine too, spinning along revving free in the breeze is my best hope to keep the stator alive. Though, the black paint is beginning to appeal to me :)
 
In my humble opinion, it was just a crap designed system from the git go.
 
tkent02 said:
Then why do some of them still work fine after 35 years?
Click to expand...

Here's one for you guys:

I was given a folder about an inch thick with every bit of work done to the bike (my 82 GS1100EZ) when I bought it ~12 years ago. It had 30,000 miles on it then. It has 80K now. To the best of my knowledge, when I removed the stator and R/R, they were the original OEM items.

Never had any sort of charging issue in the 50K miles/12 years of ownership. I am replacing the stock R/R with an SH775, and the OEM stator with a Rick's unit.

The plug for the R/R was burned and corroded, so it was a matter of time before something failed. After examining the harness closely, I decided to replace it, as well along with the OEM ignition coils.

The Ole Girl isn't going to know what to do with herself! :D
 
tkent02 said:
I think they all fail once the connections get corroded. Until then, they don't.
Click to expand...

Not even, mine were clean as a whistle. Kept them that way since I bought it new. About the 4th year I had it, I noticed the connections were getting hot and took it back to the dealer. He took a look at them and we cleaned them and replaced the really bad ones, not 6 months latter the first stator died. The connections we replaced had burned again. Tested the R/R and tested fine, the stator was toast, couldn't even put out 15 ACkv on any one leg. Took the battery with it. Next time it happened (about 3 years later), took the R/R this time and the stator and battery again. Connections were upgraded to a HD type spade, didn't matter, 3-4 years AGAIN it burned out. Did everything over again and added a ground from the R/R to the battery and the frame. Poof another one went about the same time spam. I believe I still have 3 of the stators in my parts box.
 
I've seen some stator rebuilding services. Do you think running less windings/larger wire would help?

The higher the output the more heat that is going to be generated anyway (resistance/induction)?

But added resistance anywhere is going to make it work harder and produce more heat.

So, my best guess would be oil isn't going to have on a stator in a system with other issues..... Bad connections and what not.
 
Old guy said:
I've seen some stator rebuilding services. Do you think running less windings/larger wire would help?
Click to expand...
I believe one of the aftermarket manufacturers made a HD stator which used heavier wire. What difference that ultimately makes I don't know.
 
Old guy said:
I've seen some stator rebuilding services. Do you think running less windings/larger wire would help?

The higher the output the more heat that is going to be generated anyway (resistance/induction)?

But added resistance anywhere is going to make it work harder and produce more heat.

So, my best guess would be oil isn't going to have on a stator in a system with other issues..... Bad connections and what not.
Click to expand...
I'm actually running that experiment now-time will tell but apart from not mustering charging voltage at stoplights with the headlight on(and my bike idles pretty low too-800-950) it seems fine after one summer. A GSR member is Indonesia is also running a thicker winding...
 
I plan on putting all the electronics in a hobby type electronics enclosure and reusing a 12v PC fan to cool the box.

Heat is bad for electronics. So is resistance. Heat goes up, resistance goes up, more heat is made, more resistance.
 
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