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tach sleeve, 850G

  • Thread starter Thread starter jprice90
  • Start date Start date
J

jprice90

Guest
The tach sleeve broke as I went to try to wiggle it out, not even sure if that was the correct way to remove it I just went ahead and tried thinking that was the correct way.
So I still have a leak, bummer.
Whats involved to get the broken piece out and replaced?
 
OK, exactly what are you calling a "tach sleeve"? :-k

There is only one part in the tach drive system that might leak, I have never heard it referred to as a "sleeve".

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I guess it is called a "sleeve". :oops:

I might have one, but did you know that a brand new one from Parts Outlaw is only $17.34?
Sure beats the $24.99 of that eBay "special". :-\\\

I might have one, but it might need new o-rings. I am headed out to the shop in a few minutes, I'll take a look.

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By the way, to remove what's left, you will have to grab the end of the "gear, tacho, driven" and use it to pull the sleeve out. Maybe use some PB Blaster around the sleeve to free it up a bit.

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Partzilla has them for $18.30, im going that route, thanks though appreciate it

I can actually breathe a little better knowing I might not have to remove the valve cover to get it out. Might just need alot of force to pull it out?
 
My sleeve was leaking oil. I had to put some vise grips on it and rock it to get it loose. I don't know HOW your sleeve broke off so can't suggest exactly what to do. My sleeve felt like it had been welded in place. What I did want to say is that when you order your new sleeve from Partzilla, you will need a new oil seal that is pressed into the sleeve 09289-05002 and the oring that goes over the outside that is part of the reason it freezes in there. The old oring will be damaged if you tried to remove it. It looks similar to a valve stem oil seal. To install the new one, grease it a bit and use a deep socket that just fits onto the edge of the seal to drive it into the sleeve.

If you do end up having to remove your valve cover, you will also have to remove the exhaust cam to drive out the sleeve. Hopefully it wasn't broke off flush and vise grips will do the trick.
 
Last edited:
geol said:
My sleeve was not leaking but was leaking. I had to put some vise grips on it and rock it to get it loose. I don't know HOW your sleeve broke off so can't suggest exactly what to do. My sleeve felt like it had been welded in place. What I did want to say is that when you order your new sleeve from Partzilla, you will need a new oil seal that is pressed into the sleeve 09289-05002 and the oring that goes over the outside that is part of the reason it freezes in there. The old oring will be damaged if you tried to remove it. It looks similar to a valve stem oil seal. To install the new one, grease it a bit and use a deep socket that just fits onto the edge of the seal to drive it into the sleeve.

If you do end up having to remove your valve cover, you will also have to remove the exhaust cam to drive out the sleeve. Hopefully it wasn't broke off flush and vise grips will do the trick.
Click to expand...

Actually, I checked it out again, and it has broke clean..
great
 
If it is broken off flush (ouch), you will have to remove your exhaust cam and drive it out of the cylinder head OR you might be able to find an EZ out... tap EZ into the stub remaining and then turn the EZ Out counter clockwise to get it to grab. At that point, you will need to try turning out the broken part using only a left handed turn. It wouldn't hurt to remove the valve cover and heat the cylinder head in the area, if possible... heat often is the answer but not really comfy giving advice about heating this area.... for sure, the cover gasket will need to be replaced probably and should probably be removed before heating if you go that path.

If you want to remove the exhaust cam, put the bike at TDC for 1/4 cylinders first (take off the points cover and look at the mechanical timing advance and set the mark on the case to align with the T mark on the advance. Pull the plugs while you turn the engine over and use the correct nut on the crank end. Stick your little finger or a screwdriver in the #4 plug hole and make sure you can feel the #4 piston top. Anyway, there are many posts about setting cam timing when you replace the camshaft you won't have any issues if you don't turn the engine over.

Anyway, with the cam shift out of the way, find a socket against the broken stub on the inside and using a small hammer, tap it outwards. The tapping should loosen the thing and I am guessing it won't be hard to tap out... just tap it lightly quite a few times before driving it out... the light tapping will loosen it. Again heating the area won't hurt if you can do it safely... of course the gas tank is off and sitting elsewhere when you do this.
 
one more question, i took everything back off and took a better look.
Where the cable hooks to, the tip of the gear itself, it sticks out of the head and sleeve a good half inch, enough to grip it with pliers etc, now would I be able to get it out by tugging on it a bit? I mean it all goes straight out right?
 
Yeah, you could try that. Grip the tip with some vise-grips, then either pull hard or find a way to emulate a slide hammer to try knocking it out.

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I would put the vise grips on from the side and rock it a bit to break the thing loose. It may not want to slide straight out.
 
I'm really hoping that will work, I'm thinking it will.
I'll be heading over there tomorrow, let you guys know
 
I had the same thing happen to me and it was a BEAR. I believe the previous owner had a leak there and decided to use black RTV to stop the leak instead of just buying a new seal.

In my case, the ONLY way to get it out was to grab on to the tab with a pair of high-quality vice grips (cheap chinese Horrible Fright ones will not grab hard enough) and whack the grips with a hammer. The sleeve would not come out by trying to punch it from behind, I think the angle is all wrong or something. Heat will probably help but there's lots of oil in that area so do it with the garage door open if you do that.

So obviously you will need a new sleeve. These were used on practically every GS engine, I'd be surprised if bunches of them weren't on eBay for cheap. You will also need a new OEM seal to go around the outside of the sleeve. And then another seal that the gear rides in. I also bought a new (well, used) gear because I was afraid I had buggered mine up too badly while trying to get it out. YMMV.
 
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