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tank cleaning

  • Thread starter Thread starter biker_guy
  • Start date Start date
B

biker_guy

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I'm trying to get my tank cleaned out before I coat it. I've put different stuff in there to slosh around to get it clean. The biggest problem I'm having is I can still here little chunks rattling around. I just can't get them all out. Has anyone stuck a shop vac hose in there tank or something??
 
No experience with this but

No experience with this but

I'm trying to get my tank cleaned out before I coat it. I've put different stuff in there to slosh around to get it clean. The biggest problem I'm having is I can still here little chunks rattling around. I just can't get them all out. Has anyone stuck a shop vac hose in there tank or something??

I got my issue of the VJMC magazine today and they had a write up on this. It sounds like after treating you won't need any coating inside unless it is to repair leaks in the tank.

http://www.rusteco.com/
 
Try using wood screws. dump them in an give it a shake. and fish them out with a magnet.
 
I took off the fuel gauge sending unit, tossed in pea gravel, shook like I was getting tazed, and sucked it all out with a shop vac. Worked awesome!

The vac helps to get the rusty dust too.
 
I got my issue of the VJMC magazine today and they had a write up on this. It sounds like after treating you won't need any coating inside unless it is to repair leaks in the tank.

http://www.rusteco.com/

The left side before and after pictures are not the same item! Their stuff may be good, but their advertising does not do it for me!:rolleyes:
 
I've used Zep Calcium Lime & Rust remover with great results. Doesn't hurt your paint, and is done in about 24 hours. Apparently it doesn't hurt the environment either. No need to coat the inside after.
 
Coating the inside after is more of a preventative measure. Just read up on the coats that don't hold up as well.
 
tank cleaning

Guys,
I just finnished up my tank for my GS850GN, used the POR-15 basic motorcycle kit....The Marine clean did a good job. was some rust scale in there and most came out in first flush. They list it as non-toxic...and it may be....however if you don't wear some kind of glove your hands will peel.
The second part that has the acid reaction mentioned does a pretty good job, not as acidic as some products but will stng flesh....still got on your gloves? Good because the tank sealer is toxic for sure.....just read the label on the can...that'l do it.....appliocation after the tank is fairly straight forward.....pour it all in the tank and slosh it around....reall best to let it flow slowly around and I paid more attention to the bottom of the tank where most rust problems arise. The product reminded me of silver paint. They suggest that you give a 96 hour period to set up before using.
I have used the more widely known brand once and never again...even if you get a goodcoverage adhesion is in question....the POR-15 was about $40 and well worth it to me.....now I'm looking to getting my GS850 back on the road again.....
Rodm850g
 
Guys,
I just finnished up my tank for my GS850GN, used the POR-15 basic motorcycle kit....The Marine clean did a good job. was some rust scale in there and most came out in first flush. They list it as non-toxic...and it may be....however if you don't wear some kind of glove your hands will peel.
The second part that has the acid reaction mentioned does a pretty good job, not as acidic as some products but will stng flesh....still got on your gloves? Good because the tank sealer is toxic for sure.....just read the label on the can...that'l do it.....appliocation after the tank is fairly straight forward.....pour it all in the tank and slosh it around....reall best to let it flow slowly around and I paid more attention to the bottom of the tank where most rust problems arise. The product reminded me of silver paint. They suggest that you give a 96 hour period to set up before using.
I have used the more widely known brand once and never again...even if you get a goodcoverage adhesion is in question....the POR-15 was about $40 and well worth it to me.....now I'm looking to getting my GS850 back on the road again.....
Rodm850g
thanks for the info. i may have to use it. i'll find out this saturday:D
 
+1 on the POR-15. Great product that yields terrific results. My tank was pretty clean but I would still find fine rust particles in the carb bowls until I did the POR.
 
I just got finished cleaning out the tank on my 1100E. It had quite a bit of rust inside. I used 2 gallons of Evapo-rust. I let it sit for 1 day in the regular position, then turned it on each side for about 12 hours. Next I drained it, rinsed it with water, then sloshed some rubbing alcohol inside to evaporate the water. The inside bottom of the tank looked clean. So far, so good.

Bob
 
Evapo-Rust is good stuff. It's reusable so don't throw it away. Not sure about your tank but when using Evapo-Rust on a few parts it did take some time to work. Don't be worried about leaving it in the tank for longer than a day. Just rotate the tank every few hours until all the rust is gone. You can have a look inside the tank by peering in through the petcock and sender unit holes - put a strong flashlight shining in the main fill opening and you will have enough light to see in through the various holes. Worked for me anyway.
 
Are you trying to save the paint job? If not, take it to a radiator shop, they can clean it out great.
 
I've called the radiator shops no one will touch with a ten foot pole. Don't know why. Well with all this info I have yet to get to the coating stage because I can still here just a little bit of crap rolling around in there. I've tried just flushing with water for ever, putting the shop vac on every hole and rocking it back and forth, I got out my wife shark vac and reduce it to a little tube to stick in the tank, put a wad of duct tape in the fuel gage hole. I can not get this crap out of the tank. Oh and reversed the shop vac to blow into the tank. Shop vac is awesome for drying though. I'm not worried about paint and so I duct taped the hose to the fill hole and just left it running until.....Oh yeah I left that on out there.
 
POR-15 is great stuff. I sealed a couple tanks about five years ago and spilled a bit of the POR on a concrete porch. That stuff is still there and looks like it was spilled yesterday!

Thanks,
Joe
 
I am dabbling with the electrolysis method right now.
I ran it for 4 hrs last night using the battery charger on 6amps.

I am thinking of getting serious and slapping the AC/DC welder on it like one guy did to get it working faster.
But faster is not always better of course...

the site I am following-
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Be careful ~!


It is electricity, and for your own safety use your head around it.
Being a Licensed Electrician doesn't make me any better then anyone else, just teaches how to do a little more then most.
one thing to note, is that your paint will bubble and peel if it has any rust under it such as nicks scratches etc.

4 hrs in (11pm cst) I turned off the setup and left the tank soaking due top the amount of steel/rust buildup on the rods (they need to be cleaned every now and then as per the website addresses in it's instructions.



t1.jpg


t2.jpg


 
Don't need to coat?

Don't need to coat?

I've used Zep Calcium Lime & Rust remover with great results. Doesn't hurt your paint, and is done in about 24 hours. Apparently it doesn't hurt the environment either. No need to coat the inside after.
Rudy, is it really that easy? Can the tank be left uncoated afterwards? That seems to make sense if the rust is light, and the tank was never coated to begin with.
Bill
 
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