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Tank Painting Disaster!!

GabrielGoes

GabrielGoes

Forum Mentor
so i worked extremely hard on my tank last sunday and did all the clearcoats... so today i go ahead and say "im gonna let it cure for a couple more days then ill buff it out, but for now ill ride with the tank in its current state".....

i go to fill up at the gas station and i was so crazy about letting even a drop of gas go on my tank and somehow i pulled the nozzle out while gas was comming out (gas went all over the tank my life was flashing before my eyes in slow motion:eek:) IDIOT MOVE!!! i ran to get towels and wipe it off but you can see where the gas spilt on the tank... it ate away some of the clear coat but nothing crazy where its super uneven but you can clearly see where the gas spilt... My thinking is im gonna go buy another can of clear coat and put on 2 more coats... do you guys think this will work?:-k i reallllly dont want to strip it down again to metal....
 
Sorry to hear about the spilled gas. Hopefully you can wet sand and reclear the tank.
 
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Don't do anything right now, wait until it cures more. Then wetsand the clear, you may get a good enough surface to polish out, or at least get it smooth enough to shoot more clear over.

What type of paint was it?
 
if it ate the clear down to the base u gotta sand it out (feather it out) so its smooth prime that spot sand the primer then base it then clear it again . u guys are better off using a good clear coat. yes its more expensive but u would never have to worrie about gas spills on ur tanks
 
What do you recommend for a good clear coat, getting ready to paint tank and sidecovers myself? terrylee
 
tkent02 said:
Don't do anything right now, wait until it cures more. Then wetsand the clear, you may get a good enough surface to polish out, or at least get it smooth enough to shoot more clear over.

What type of paint was it?
Click to expand...

rustoleum "special automtive formula" clear coat for automobiles... it sprays out really fine mist so im guessing it aint that bad.. i did like 4 good coats waited like 5-7 minutes inbetween...
 
crazypaint said:
if it ate the clear down to the base u gotta sand it out (feather it out) so its smooth prime that spot sand the primer then base it then clear it again . u guys are better off using a good clear coat. yes its more expensive but u would never have to worrie about gas spills on ur tanks
Click to expand...

what is the best clear coat you reccomend thats not for the spray gun, in other words is there even a good rattle can clear coater?
 
The Rustoleum stuff works fine if you follow the instructions and be real meticulous about it. You have to keep it waxed and protected, though, because it won't harden up as much as some.

Next time, if YOU JUST CAN'T WAIT to ride...slap on a few coats of carnauba wax. It'll help keep the gas off your paint.
 
u can get a thing called a spray bomb i forget the name but it alows u to us the good stuff ud spray out of a paint gun. ive used it its works very well.its a airsol can that has a clear glass jar that goes on the bottom (thats where the paint and or clear goes) and u spray it just like a sray can but u can use the good stuff (believe u can get them at ur local autobody supply store not sure how much they are). ill get the name today during my jurnies. the cheapest and nices clear i have found is called pro-form 4-1. its about 50-60 bucks a gallon with the hardener. hopfully some of u guys do this i hate to here about gas messing up ur paint jobs. i know all the work involved and hate to here u gotta go back thro that again.
 
^It doesn't matter how good the paint is...if it's not cured, gas will screw it up.
 
if u use a automotive clear after it sits for a night which usually happens gas wont hurt it
 
I've used the stuff in kent's link the spraymax 2k is fantastic and is the only gas resistant clear that you can get without a gun. Mine orange peeled a little but I rushed doing it if you're doing it right and wetsanding and buffing then no worries. I wasn't concerned with a show quality finish. I actually wetsanded mine to a flat finish and am extremely happy with the final result. The stuff is as tuff as nails. This was my first attempt at any type of painting.this reads like a stream of conciousness so sorry but I'm in a hurry. hope you get the point.
 
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There are no single part/uncatalyzed, either color or clear coat, spray can paints that gas will not eat through and destroy instantly. NONE

Earl
 
earlfor said:
There are no single part/uncatalyzed, either color or clear coat, spray can paints that gas will not eat through and destroy instantly. NONE

Earl
Click to expand...

hence the 2 Part (2K), SprayMax Urethane Aerosol Clear Coat.

Suzuki paint isn't any better, leaking gas ruined my perfect original paint job on my 750.
 
tkent02 said:
hence the 2 Part (2K), SprayMax Urethane Aerosol Clear Coat.

Suzuki paint isn't any better, leaking gas ruined my perfect original paint job on my 750.
Click to expand...


Yeah, after all the prep work involved and the final wet sanding of the primer with #1500 grit I will only paint a gas tank with Dupont Imron or US Paint Awlgrip. Those two, you can pour gas, diesel, battery acid, brake fluid or about anything else you can think of all over the finish, and it will not do squat to it and neither will temperatures up to 300 deg. :D
The Awlgrip, unless you have a knife, you cant even scratch it. heheh

Earl
 
I ordered up a can of that stuff, got my tank off for a while. I painted it 2 years back "custom" and just threw normal rattle clear on it, got a few gas drops that I wiped off and left some stains.

Im not looking for perfect, but if I scrub it down then wet sand it with 2000 would that be fine for spraying the clear over? Also will it work on plastic side covers? Mine are a mess, sanding down the grayish chrome part and blacking them out. Might spray a stencil graphic on that if I cut something up too.
 
Rattle can clearcoat

Rattle can clearcoat

GabrielGoes said:
what is the best clear coat you reccomend thats not for the spray gun, in other words is there even a good rattle can clear coater?
Click to expand...


Rattle can clearcoat can not compare to HVLP (high volume/low pressure) spray gun. The particles are much finer and the spray pattern is MUCH more consistant. You can get a usable HVLP gun at Harbor Freight for about $15.00 see : http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

Borrow a compressor or buy one see: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html

Put a filter on the gun. Prep, prep, prep... sand well with 400, then 600, then 1000. Wash your hands: Then go over with wax/grease remover.
Rattle can primer ok if you use light coats 20 min. apart and then fine wet sand with 1000grit.

Get a 4 to 1 clearcoat and hardener from auto parts store, same with the base coat.

Use a mask! And paint far away from all vehicles! :) 3 or 4 light coats of base 10-15 minutes apart (temp. 65-85 degrees with low-mid humidity best) Wait 20-30 minutes and mix up the clear and shoot two med. coats 6-10min. apart. Don't use tank for several days, and it will be soft for up to 30 days.

Here is a pic of before: http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh63/mperryz24/GS550L/TankBefore.jpg

and after: http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh63/mperryz24/GS550L/TankAfter.jpg

Thanks for reading!
Mike :)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GabrielGoes
what is the best clear coat you reccomend thats not for the spray gun, in other words is there even a good rattle can clear coater?

I've read really good things about this stuff:

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm


Probably the best "rattle can" solution if you carefully follow the directions and use a consistant and slightly over-lapping pattern.
 
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