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Tank Rust Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kcwiro
  • Start date Start date
K

Kcwiro

Guest
Hey guys I got the tank that was clamed as NOS / New Old Stock and the bugger has a rust all over the inside of it and appears to have been used at least once I have contacted the ebay seller in hopes he will be nice about either partial refund or just take the whole thing back all together... the paint even has some imperfections in it.

The paint that is visable is indeed new looking the damage is on the underside where it mounts up... My current tank is fine cept paint is starting to come off and it has visable rust on parts where the paint is broken on it other wise I was hoping this 'new' tank would not have any of this. *sigh*

What should I do guys?
 
I think sellers don't understand the difference between NOS and OEM. Either that or he's just trying to rip you off. Bummer.

Hope he makes it right.
 
I have no idea myself... I have not heard anything back just yet from him I am hopeful that he will offer something. I was not expecting to have to use inline filters anymore but even with this 'new' tank looks like I will still have to be buying those things unless I want my carbs to get all jammed up again *shudder*

... Will CLR eat this junk out?... I really don't want to have to do the bolts slosh method again... there has to be something that will desolve this stuff without me having to do a liner... Really don't want to do that!
 
CLR will eat it somewhat. But if the paint is already crap, I'd go all the way and use phosphoric acid (if that's the right acid -- just going from memory), which should really do it right. And instead of bolts, use a length of chain, so it's easy to get out.
 
It has not gone through the paint...it is litterally just on the surface...if you scrub with your finger it will come off ever so gently. Nothing flake like or nothin outside paint looks great and everything though. I think I will try the CLR first before doing a chain or anything.. just parinoid I'll break up the paint from the bottom and if that happenes... sheesh.

Before I begin with it I am goign to wait and see what this guy has to say so I can at least have an idea of what he is will ing to do first for me[-o<
 
My tank had similar rust I used a product called Krud Kutter with good results. I got it from wal-mart.
 
Kcwiro said:
I have no idea myself... I have not heard anything back just yet from him I am hopeful that he will offer something. I was not expecting to have to use inline filters anymore but even with this 'new' tank looks like I will still have to be buying those things unless I want my carbs to get all jammed up again *shudder*
Click to expand...



Hey kcwiro,what filters?? I mean where.
 
For de-rusting and treating tank rust, the stuff made by Kreem does a pretty good job. It is a 3 step process where the first step is a cleaner. The 2nd step is a rinse to remove all the cleaner residue (it's basically MEK, Methyethylkeotones) and etch the tank before moving to step 3, and the 3rd step is a liquid plastisized goop that you pour into the tank and roll around until all of the inside surfaces are covered, drain the excess and then let the tank set a few days for it to dry properly.

I've used this before and it worked well, but you have to remove petcock, gas gauge sender, or anything that extends in to the tank and then you have to plug up all those holes well so that the treatment chemicals don't work their way thru the covering.
 
Mark whiz said:
For de-rusting and treating tank rust, the stuff made by Kreem does a pretty good job.
Click to expand...

Kreem is popular. Based on feedback here, the Por-15 products have a better reputation though. The tank in question should not need the plastic liner, just a good wash out with the etch chemical.

Based on a suggestion by someone here I bought some Evapo-Rust and can say that the stuff is great. Never used it on the inside of a gas tank but it did a good job on rust on other parts - like exhaust pipe flanges and chromed footpeg castings. Rinses clean and is not too harsh on the environment/hands.

Good luck.
 
I have done several tanks with a method my cousin gave me.

you need,

Baking soda
Water
1L of Phosphoric acid, (or Muriatic, or what ever the building center has for etching concrete)
Chemical handling gloves
3L of Acetone
2L of Lacquer Thinner
hand full of nuts and bolts
gas to fill the tank

Start by removing the petcock and the fuel sensor if you have one. hose out the inside of the tank with water... lots of it, to get rid of particles.

start with Acetone, about 1L, shaken around well, to get rid of the water.

next comes 2 rounds of Lacquer thinner, shaken well for about 5 minutes.

add about a half L of acid, with the nuts and bolts and shake the dickens out of it for about 5 minutes. you do not need to weaken the acid, only make sure that this part does not last any longer than 10 minutes, or you will be patching holes.

dump the acid, and neutralize with a water. baking soda solution.

rinse with water until no more rust comes out.

rinse with Acetone twice at least.

put equipment back on, and fill with gas.

note: a bottle cleaning brush is helpful.

this is essentially the same process used to acid wash a rad.
 
Well I am debating the sending it back tro him and getting a fullr efund or not... I think this really is just on the surface kind of deal something that occurs on exposed bar metal. I think I can just use a rust eater to get it out and be fine... repainting my existing tank definately more trouble than working with this guy.

I mean a good paint job on the outside is golden...

I will post back with what I choose to do i think I will take the CLR approach first... since I should not need a heck of a lot it is something to try anyway... do need to find something to plug the tank holes though so it does not leak..

anyone have suggestions on that one?
 
Go to Home Depot, Lowe's, or Walmart and pick up some concrete etcher. It's phosphoric acid which is what Kreem and Por-15 both use to remove and convert rust. It's safe for sound metal and only treats the rust. Dilute it with about 3 or 4 parts water and let it sit in the tank for about 20-30 minutes. Follow with a good water rinse then blow dry the inside of the tank. If you're not going to fill it right away mix a little motor oil with some naptha and coat the inside of the tank with it. Drain the solution and when the naptha evaporates a light coat of oil witll be left behind. The phosphoric acid doesn't seem to hurt the paint if a little seeps out of the tank.
 
I dumped a bottle of naval jelley in mine. I could slosh it all around, turn it upside down and not worry about it gushing out of filler hole. I followed that with a half box of baking soda, air dried it with a blow drier, filled it with gas and a quarter bottle of iso and everything seems just great.

I ruined my paint anyway when I got fork oil on it.:(
 
For what it's worth, I used the POR-15 motorcycle tank kit in my Virago and it worked great...
 
Billy Ricks said:
Go to Home Depot, Lowe's, or Walmart and pick up some concrete etcher. It's phosphoric acid which is what Kreem and Por-15 both use to remove and convert rust. It's safe for sound metal and only treats the rust. Dilute it with about 3 or 4 parts water and let it sit in the tank for about 20-30 minutes. Follow with a good water rinse then blow dry the inside of the tank. If you're not going to fill it right away mix a little motor oil with some naptha and coat the inside of the tank with it. Drain the solution and when the naptha evaporates a light coat of oil witll be left behind. The phosphoric acid doesn't seem to hurt the paint if a little seeps out of the tank.
Click to expand...

Oh, how I wish this were true.....

I've been to all three places and guess what? All of the concrete etcher is now "environmentally friendly, organic-based compound" with absolutely NO phosphoric acid. At least that's the way it is in Brazoria and Harris (read: Houston area) Counties. Even a trip to the paint shop yielded no results, as well as calls to several industrial supply shops, plumbing shops and industrial cleaning companies. The strongest stuff I could find was OSPHO, which will work as long as you're willing to slosh it around a lot with a double handful of bolts (never thought of the chain idea, gotta give that a try someday).

However, a friend told me that I could get phosphoric acid, in liquid or powder(?) form, from swimming pool supply companies.

After all of this hassle, I think I'm just going to order the POR-15 kit. I've had great success with several of their other products, and I might just get the automotive kit so I can do the GS and the Shadow at the same time.
 
I used POR-15 in my tank to eliminate the fine rust that invariably forms and makes its way into the carb bowls. It turned out great and for about $40 shipped it's a bargain.
 
The availability of phosphoric acid for etching concrete must be a local thing. I found it and muriatic acid to be available everywhere around here.

FWIW, naval jelley is phosphoric acid. It just comes in a gel form. I'm sure it could be thinned out if one desires. It is also less than half the price of a gallon of concrete etcher.
 
Any radiator shop can blast the inside and coat it with baked on expoxy.
My GS tank was done for about $50.
 
Try removing the rust first with the phosphoric acid solution first before using the Por-15 coating stuff. Most likely you don't need the sealer. Enviro-Rust is good stuff and will eat the rust away. You are going to have to turn the tank quite a few times though and shake it up. Don't be in a hurry and it will work. Turn the tank every once in a while and leave it until the rust is gone - might take a couple of days.
 
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