• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Tarozzi Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter MisterCinders
  • Start date Start date
M

MisterCinders

Guest
I got my new rearsets in the mail today. Based on the parts fiche in the package, everything is here. There is one detail that puzzles me though.

Where does the rear brake return spring fit into the mix?

The kit does not seem to include a return spring for the rear brake. The stock return spring works from the frame to the stock pedal, which is almost parallel to the other contact point for the spring. It's No. 20 in the fiche pic here:

51.gif


The Tarozzi brake arm sits closer to perpendicular to that frame member, so I don't see how the spring will work in that position.

Admittedly, I am not with the bike now, so the solution may be self-evident when I start installing the new controls. Perhaps there is a similar anchor point, like a frame member, near the new brake pedal location that will make the spring work there?

Or do I need to pick up a different spring?

TIA
 
Mine fit a little wonky on my GS1000S, too, but it does work fine. Tarrozis are really nice parts and they should bolt right on.
 
nvr2old said:
Mine fit a little wonky on my GS1000S, too, but it does work fine. Tarrozis are really nice parts and they should bolt right on.
Click to expand...

I can confirm that. Use the same spring and the same anchor point. You have to manhandle the other end of the spring a little but it will go on.
 
Yeah, I'll use the stock spring. Problem is the kit is missing one of the shifter linkages parts. So I guess I'll be waiting for that. :(
 
Which set did you buy? You know the drill. Pics man pics!
 
I got the brushed aluminum sets. Still need a part. Should be in tomorrow. Then the pics will flow.

Right now I have the brake control installed and stock shifter. Makes for wierd foot positions. Also think the brake pedal needs to rotate back a touch. Feels too low now.
 
The brushed alum are nniiiccee. I been eye ballin those myself. But I have many other things i want to do before dropping that much on a set of pegs. And actually I'm thinking about keeping the stock ones. As hard as my seat is they give me a little adjustment on long rides between the main and passenger pegs.
 
I should have the missing linkage part today. While I wait, here is a dilemma on the brake side.

I mounted the Tarozzi lever at the angle necessary to use the return spring -- more or less straight ahead horizontal. In that position, however, the foot pedal angles down such that it's pretty hard to reach the brake.

Unlike the shifter linkage, the brake linkage has no fine adjustment, so I can only change the pedal angle by rotating the lever on the spindle. If I rotate the lever up, however, it won't engage the spring.

So I have three options here.

1. Do some ankle stretches and deal with the tip-toed brake pedal. :confused:

2. Adjust the brake lever and eliminate the return spring. :-s

3. Do something to make the return spring work with the lever in a better position.

Unless someone convinces me that the return spring is not necessary, I am hoping for ideas on option 3. All I can think of is to (a) add something to the frame peg that tilts the spring counterclockwise to accommodate the new lever angle; or (b) try bending the spring to fit in the new lever position.

Has anyone had to fiddle with that spring to adjust it?
 
MisterCinders said:
I should have the missing linkage part today. While I wait, here is a dilemma on the brake side.

I mounted the Tarozzi lever at the angle necessary to use the return spring -- more or less straight ahead horizontal. In that position, however, the foot pedal angles down such that it's pretty hard to reach the brake.

Unlike the shifter linkage, the brake linkage has no fine adjustment, so I can only change the pedal angle by rotating the lever on the spindle. If I rotate the lever up, however, it won't engage the spring.

So I have three options here.

1. Do some ankle stretches and deal with the tip-toed brake pedal. :confused:

2. Adjust the brake lever and eliminate the return spring. :-s

3. Do something to make the return spring work with the lever in a better position.

Unless someone convinces me that the return spring is not necessary, I am hoping for ideas on option 3. All I can think of is to (a) add something to the frame peg that tilts the spring counterclockwise to accommodate the new lever angle; or (b) try bending the spring to fit in the new lever position.

Has anyone had to fiddle with that spring to adjust it?
Click to expand...

It took a few goes but I eventually got the adjustment right using the spring as is. Have you adjusted the pedal by unscrewing the lock-nut and moving the lock pin around one notch? Once you get it close the fine adjustment is simply moving the lock-nuts on the M/C piston.
 
allojohn said:
It took a few goes but I eventually got the adjustment right using the spring as is. Have you adjusted the pedal by unscrewing the lock-nut and moving the lock pin around one notch? Once you get it close the fine adjustment is simply moving the lock-nuts on the M/C piston.
Click to expand...

Tell me more about adjusting the pedal? I did not realize that you could move things around at that end. The exploded diagram shows those parts, but mine came assembled in that regard, so I never really looked into it from that end.

If I can rotate the pedal up, I am golden.
 
Your new Tarozzi brake pedal is multi-adjustable. You just need to disassemble it and move the parts around till you find the correct position. There's lots of options, or there was on my set anyway. Here's a pic of how the spring looks on mine. It's, I'm assuming, supposed to attach to the hole in front of it, but it won't. It still works perfectly as is, though.

P1010001-8.jpg
 
MisterCinders said:
Tell me more about adjusting the pedal? I did not realize that you could move things around at that end. The exploded diagram shows those parts, but mine came assembled in that regard, so I never really looked into it from that end.

If I can rotate the pedal up, I am golden.
Click to expand...

On the pedal pivot there is a large round nut with two small holes. I had to use a drift in one of the holes to undo the nut. Once you get the nut off you will see an adjustment assembly with a lock pin. When you see it it will make sense to you. I may have some photos at home - I'll have a look after work.
 
All those holes in the pedal pivot assembly are at different radii, so, with the pin removed, place it on the bike, move the pedal where you want it, then see what holes line up the closest in that position, and replace the pin there.
 
Thanks. That makes things much simpler. How dumb am I to not consider possibly adjusting things at the pedal end?

[answer: pretty freaking dumb :o]
 
Take the peg off and you can get at the big round nut.

P1000997.JPG


Push the center bushing out then slide the pin out and make the adjustment.

P1000999.JPG
 
Awesome. Thanks a lot for the pics. Lucky that you snapped those when installing the bike.

If you went home and pulled your brake pedal just to take the pictures, . . .
 
So I got the special wrench and too a stab at adjusting that brake lever.

It is a Rubik's Cube of puzzles.

The lever is in the position shown in allojohn's pic. The brake end is as high as it can be while still engaging the return spring. The pedal's angle, however, is a bit low and makes it hard to use the rear brake, since I have to "tip-toe" it to press down.

Rotating the brake lever up - I lose the return spring.

If I move the peg lever forward (to raise the pedal angle), it's too high. I can then move the brake lever down a notch to better engage the spring. But that creates a third problem. The brake pedal is in a good position, but the linkage angle ends up being too acute to work well. Indeed, it tries to pop the hook pins that tie the linkage together.

After several different iterations, I ended up back where I started, with the less than ideal pedal angle.

I wonder if it might work better to rotate the peg lever 180 degrees and try things from the bottom?
 
Yeah, I found the same with the pedal in the desired position I couldn't get enough pressure on the brake. Adjusting the M/C piston lifted the pedal which help with pressure but annoyed me no end.

I didn't try turning the contraption around but that's good thinking and may work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top