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Tested my R/R, here are the results.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Etcheberri
  • Start date Start date
E

Etcheberri

Guest
Hello guys.

EDIT : I realized this part differs from the pictures in the service manual, is it stock?

decided to test my R/R on my project gs 750 es 1983.

here are the readings.

P1030725.jpg

and the service manual says.
P1030726.jpg


conclusion?
my guess is...toasted.:(

what are yours?:confused:
 
Last edited:
If you don't see any suzuki type part numbers on this R/R, it's probably not OEM. Basscliff has good write up on testing the diodes in a R/R, though it's for a honda type, so wire colors are different. But this is just a crude test for diode function and doesn't tell you whether the R/R will "regulate" properly over the rpm range.
 
Well, if you do replace it, I recommend that you consider the Shindengen MOSFET RR. It's the cat's dangles.
 
Here is a simple test from the stator papers,to test your system :

Step 0 - testing the complete circuit

If the battery is known to be good AND fully charged, the testing may begin. The stuff hereunder assumes that you have a basic knowledge of electricity, up to the point that you know that electricity can be dangerous, and up to the point that you understand the difference between amperage and voltage, and AC and DC. If you don't, please, for the sake of your health and the health of your bike, back off and get some help.
What we need, apart from some general tools such as screwdrivers and spanners, is a general purpose multimeter, which is able to measure AC as well as DC.
We'll start with everything, including the engine, switched off. Select DC Volts on the multimeter, if it's not an auto-ranging meter be sure to select an appropriate range (up to 20 V on most devices), and determine the potential difference between the plus and minus poles of the battery. If the battery is OK and fully charged, this should be something in the proximity of 13 Volts
Now we start the engine and have it idle. Be sure to leave lights and everything off. On idle, not too much will happen, since the stator simply isn't revolving fast enough to generate enough current. Depending on the bike, you may see it rise a little, to something like 13,5 V or so.
Now we rev it up to a reasonable speed, say, something like 4000 RPM. Now you should see full charge, somewhere in the range of 13,9 and 14,5 Volt.
Rev it up a little more, and check whether it stays at that level, or whether it starts to drop significantly at higher rev ranges -- it shouldn't.
If this is all OK, your charging circuit is in working order. If you've got a draining battery problem, it's somewhere else. If this is NOT OK, there's a problem somewhere in between (including) the stator and the battery. You may read this page to understand what's going on and proceed to step 1 (described below).
Please remember at this point: a battery that is not fully charged OR charged, but bad, will probably ruin your test. If you are not sure about the battery condition, get a battery that is KNOWN to be good, charge it fully and repeat the test.
 
FiremanBob said:
Well, if you do replace it, I recommend that you consider the Shindengen MOSFET RR. It's the cat's dangles.
Click to expand...

i will consider it.


@bccap.
Thank you for that piece of information.
i will have to wait to test my electrical system, the bike is somewhat in pieces for now, i am cleaning/checking every mechanical parts before trying to fire it up, even my tank needs love.
 
Check your stator ac output. If that R/R is a replacement two failed R/R's could have damaged the stator.
 
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