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the saga continues (is it my stator)

  • Thread starter Thread starter wolfman
  • Start date Start date
W

wolfman

Guest
OK I have a 83 850GL. I went through the stator papers. My R/R was bad and replaced it. I am have some charging issues and want to make sure it is the stator before buying one. I charged the battery and left it for a week it held the charge around 12.8 I hooked up the multimeter to the battery and started it, it went down to 12.2 I revved it to 5K and no change in the volts. I tested the leads coming off the stator for charge and I get about 60V. I am thinking it is the stator but I don't want to spend the money if it is something else.
 
If you get 60 VAC on any combination of the 3 stator wires I dont think the Stator is bad.

Where did you get the replacement RR ?
 
maybe stating the obvious...

maybe stating the obvious...

recheck the wiring. I recall there may be more wires coming off your regulator, than the OEM one had. Did you ground the regulator to the neg battery terminal?

Sorry can't help much more than that. I've not done the upgrade....
 
So all three combinations of stator wires give the same voltage when you rev it up? That's what it's supposed to do.
Have you gone through all the connectors, cleaned all the grounds, and done the entire test procedure in the stator papers?
 
As the guys keep stressing, lots of the problems with electricals are a result of 1) corrosion at connectors 2) bad or ineffective grounds.

Take all your connectors and grounds apart and clean them well before you get deep into your testing. This may sort out your issues. Also, run that negative lead from the R/R to the negative battery post. That is a terrific mod and sorts out a lot of charging problems.

It does not sound like your stator if your getting the voltage stated.

Duaneage's R/R should be working properly but I suppose a dud may have gotten past him. Are you sure it is hooked up correctly? Perhaps you can verify with him.

These charging woes are a royal PITA but with a bit of perserverence, you'll get it working right.

Let us know what else you find.

Good luck with it.

Cheers,
Spyug.
 
I just got a 2nd set of hand and redid the tests. The Stator is BAD it is only putting out 30V at 4k RPM.

Edit:
Might help if the 2nd set of hands *cough* wife *cough* read the meter right. We are getting about 75 volts on all 3 legs. (posted by the wife herself!)
 
Last edited:
More ideas?

More ideas?

We have checked all connections. We have grounded the r/r to the battery. We have cleaned all grounds. We are going to take the battery to have it tested. The po had it outside dead all winter, so it could be a problem.

Wouldn't think there was anything wrong with the charging system except that the bike had to be pushed home a week ago, and the volts aren't rising when we rev it to 4000.

Any other ideas?
 
Cooking with electrons

Cooking with electrons

Hi Mr. wolfman,

The stator output should be equal on all three legs and at least 60-70 volts AC or better on each leg (total = 180-210 volts or better). There is an illustrated test procedure and other information on my website. Feel free to visit.

If you have 75 volts total then your stator may be having issues. Have you gone through the diagnostic steps in The Stator Papers? That document is a nice piece of work. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi Mr. wolfman,

The stator output should be equal on all three legs and at least 60-70 volts AC or better on each leg (total = 180-210 volts or better). There is an illustrated test procedure and other information on my website. Feel free to visit.

If you have 75 volts total then your stator may be having issues. Have you gone through the diagnostic steps in The Stator Papers? That document is a nice piece of work. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

We have 75 volts running off of each leg ie A-B=75V B-C=75V A-C=75V

We have been going through the stator papers! Great source! I also just downloaded the factory manual from your site. Thanks for putting that site together. It really helps us newbies.

We went and got the battery tested tonight. It is fully charged and shows no bad cells. I think I am going to take a step back and start from the beginning again. Obviously there is something we've missed. I'll start at all the connectors and grounds and work our way from there ... again.

Sincerely,
Wolfie's Wife :smile:
 
Check the R/R.
Are you sure you have the sense wire hooked up to a live wire that kicks on with the ignition switch? If you split into the brake switch make sure it's the live one going in.
Without the sense wire connected properly the R/R won't work.
 
I have it hooked into the white wire on the brake light. I that the right one? or should it be hooked up to the orange.
 
Your hooked up wrong check with the meter should be the orange wire
NOT the white
 
problem fixed I didn't have it grounded properly, can you say dumbsh!t
 
wolfman said:
problem fixed I didn't have it grounded properly, can you say dumbsh!t
Click to expand...

It was suggested to me (by the Obi Wan Kinobi of GS'rs) that I run the sense wire to directly to the battery through a relay. You can still tie into your tail light hot wire to close the relay when the ignition is on. The voltage drop to the tail light may possibly cause the the R/R to put out too high a voltage and boil the battery.
 
spyug said:
Duaneage's R/R should be working properly but I suppose a dud may have gotten past him. Are you sure it is hooked up correctly? Perhaps you can verify with him.
Click to expand...

I've never seen a bad Honda RR yet. Despite their age they are remarkably durable it seems.

I prefer to ground to the frame and redo the battery ground to the frame as well. The primary job of the RR and stator is power the bike. Everything is grounded to the frame. The battery gets a charge as a byproduct.
 
Giblet said:
It was suggested to me (by the Obi Wan Kinobi of GS'rs) that I run the sense wire to directly to the battery through a relay. You can still tie into your tail light hot wire to close the relay when the ignition is on. The voltage drop to the tail light may possibly cause the the R/R to put out too high a voltage and boil the battery.
Click to expand...

The best thing to do is make sure the various switches are clean and working properly, rather than adding relays for this or that.

If there is a dirty light or ignition switch dropping voltage to the lights, why not take care of it directly? Or will we be installing relays for the brake light, headlight, turn signals, etc?

A little contact cleaner spray can work wonders on old switches. Sometimes they just have to be replaced.
 
Well, not to argue a point but, there is a voltage drop associated with the wire running to the tail light regardless how clean your switches etc are. BUT, those need to be clean regardless. The relay is just a means to an end. From my work experience in telecomm power, I KNOW the closer to the source you measure your voltage, the more accuracy you get.

duaneage said:
The best thing to do is make sure the various switches are clean and working properly, rather than adding relays for this or that.

If there is a dirty light or ignition switch dropping voltage to the lights, why not take care of it directly? Or will we be installing relays for the brake light, headlight, turn signals, etc?

A little contact cleaner spray can work wonders on old switches. Sometimes they just have to be replaced.
Click to expand...
 
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