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TheCafeKid

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ironriot
  • Start date Start date
I

Ironriot

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I figure we bring this into a new thread.

Ceramic base you say? I think I'll look into this tomorrow. But first things first I need to check the valve clearances before I put the motor back in. You ever deal with that?

And dude I was thinking, Forward Controls.... What do you think? The brake and shifter pedals are too awkwardly positioned for me. I have to manipulate my legs to get to them. And thats cuz I'm short!
 
forward controls are going to throw them out farther from you...just so ya know...and which bike are we talking on valve clearance??
 
Further out is what I want. I don't like having to pull my legs in.... '81 550

I'm a retard. I got onto the website dotheton to look at the flexi-exhaust you posted about and was looking for pics like a confused ape. Finally figured out you gotta register to look at the pics. DOH!
 
you have the manual for that bike?? or know what the tollerances for clearance are? if so i can give my best advice based on what i was taught..its really not as daunting a task as it seems...the math can be a headache....but we can figure it out, plus Steve has an awesome spreadsheet for valve adjustments he can email you...once you get your starting shim sizes from there it will do most of the math for you. Changing them out it pretty damn easy if its set up anything like my 750...is it DHOC Four banger right?
 
Yeah I do. Well I got a PDF of it. I've been meaning to print it out at school but they're touchy about anything over 30 pages hehe. But yeah DOHC Four banger is right. I'll try to get the clearances up right now
 
Its valve to guide clearance right?


Alright I think its 0.03 - 0.08 mm and for those of use who don't use the metric system thats 0.001 - 0.003 in.
 
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Sweet, thats very helpfull. You'll need a set of feeler gauges... what you're looking for is clearance based on the shims that are currently in there. for instance... .03mm to .08mm is in the acceptable range on my 750..whats yours say??
 
excellent. same as mine....

First of all what you need to do is obviously remove the tank, plug wires, and breather and valve cover. You'll want to be carefull if you dont want to replace the valve gasket, to keep it on the motor side and not the cover...if you're going to replace it then no biggie. Having some micrometers or a caliper in MMs would be great, but most times the shim is stamped with its size. on the under side (youll see when you pull it out) You'll need to take your points cover off too, cos your going to have to turn the engine by hand. A tappet tool would be great but if you dont have one, we have ways around that...you'll need a good skinny set of needle nose pliers as well.
 
TheCafeKid said:
excellent. same as mine....

First of all what you need to do is obviously remove the tank, plug wires, and breather and valve cover. You'll want to be carefull if you dont want to replace the valve gasket, to keep it on the motor side and not the cover...if you're going to replace it then no biggie. Having some micrometers or a caliper in MMs would be great, but most times the shim is stamped with its size. on the under side (youll see when you pull it out) You'll need to take your points cover off too, cos your going to have to turn the engine by hand. A tappet tool would be great but if you dont have one, we have ways around that...you'll need a good skinny set of needle nose pliers as well.
Click to expand...

Way ahead of you with those first steps. The engine is sitting outside of the frame. I have some feelers already. My question is where do I stick those feelers? Between the cam and the shim?
 
yeah rotate the motor clockwise using the crank access in the points (a good ratched will work..just make sure it get over the inner bolt not the outer.) Pick a lobe on the cam and rotate clockwise till the point of the lope is perpendicular to the motor...then use your gauge there...if the .03 doesnt fit, try a smaller..you want it to fit but not loosely.. snug.. but not jamming it in there.
 
what you're looking for is how far off, if off, your valve shim is from being in spec. Its also best if you write these down as you go...start with one cam (exhaust or intake) and go from cyl 1 to 4...because you may be able to move some around to avoid having to buy ALL new shims...its easier when you have that spread sheet, but you'll still have to write it down the first time you do it.
 
simplified...

Your feeler gauge is telling you the .10mm is whats fitting...
.08 is within spec...so your .02mm to large...you'll need a larger shim to reduce the clearence. Pull the shim and on the bottom side should be a stamped number (example 2 45, that shim is 2.45mm) you know that you need a shim larger than that to adjust for the 02mm that you are out...the next size is 2.5 ..thats .05mm in reduction...putting you well within spec. That make it a bit simpler??
 
Extremely. So the name of the game is to shoot for a clearance that is no smaller than .03 but no bigger than .08?

And when the bike ages does that mean the clearance are gonna get tighter or are they gonna get looser?
 
yup...and to remove those shims if you dont have a tappet depressor, you can loosen the cam towers and gently pry up on the cam with a flat head. the tappets (what the shims sit in) will spin around and at some point on it there will be a notch. that allows you to pop the shim out of the seat and then pull it out with needle noses or a pair of tweezers. Just make sure that when you go to pull the shim the cam has allowed the tappet to come up all the way...usually with the cam lobe perpendicular to the engine case (flat) and if you go prying with the screwdriver to lift the cam make sure A) the cam tower bolts are loosened all the way out, and B) you arent depressing the tappet with the screwdriver.

And again write down all the sizes you have and from what cam side and cyl number they came from ...you may find that you can use them somewhere else.
 
Ironriot said:
Extremely. So the name of the game is to shoot for a clearance that is no smaller than .03 but no bigger than .08?

And when the bike ages does that mean the clearance are gonna get tighter or are they gonna get looser?
Click to expand...

i had to go down with a couple of mine, so they may get tighter. which means you'll have to shim down. i have a table of shim sizes if you get stuck...but normally they go up or down by .05mm.

And dont worry if they arent all the same...you just want them in spec...
 
Also...the diameter of the shims is different on our GSs (KZs use ours too) most are 29mm ours are 29.5...
Z1enterprises has a whole selections and they are way cheaper than getting them from the local shop...who will prolly have to order them anyway.
 
Ah it all finally makes sense. I read through BassCliff's tutorial but it doesn't explain alot into detail. Well I know I didn't understand most of it but thanks I finally get it now. I'll check out the clearances tomorrow and post up up the results. Hopefully I won't need to make any adjustments. Thanks a bunch though I appreciate it alot. Now I owe Intruder and you drink :)
 
Lemme know what ya find as far as clearances, and if ya need i can help out further...And no prob bro...i've just learned a bit on this myself..so its nice to be able to pay it forward. :-D
 
Paying it forward is what I'm all about. That's why I like boards so much. Helping someone out when they're in a position you were once in would make the world a better place IMO

So how's your caffenated '77?
 
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