TheCafeKid

[TheCafeKid]

Ugh I should clean out those calipers and MCs but damnit I wanna ride already lol. I'll probably give it a few test runs and see how the brakes hold up. But I think the rear caliper is gonna need a cleaning. I can spin the wheel but it spins only for a few inches before it comes to a stop. Does it sound like it should be cleaned?

Lol you and caffenating my bike. I think once I get bored with the chopped life I'll caffenate it. I saw a rear section that looked pretty badass. I'll try to find a pic so you can see what it looks like

Id check that, and your wheel bearings too. One other thing to consider,depending on chaing and sprocket age is checking those. From personal experience that is one of the symtoms of chain binding, due to a worn chain, which in turn is usally due to a bad sprocket or sprockets. But usally there will be some unusual chain racket just about he time it starts to grab and stop the tire. if you have that noise...pull your sprockets and check for wear...raised teeth, twisted teeth or curled or worn teeth. this caused binding and eventually will twist the rivets in you chain to breakage. mine happended to be in the front sprocket, which is easiest to check...but check the bearings first...

You;ll hear clicking or binding if its chain and sprocket wear. if your not hearing that, then its most likely bearings or warped rotor or brake caliper.

 

[Ironriot]

Id check that, and your wheel bearings too. One other thing to consider,depending on chaing and sprocket age is checking those. From personal experience that is one of the symtoms of chain binding, due to a worn chain, which in turn is usally due to a bad sprocket or sprockets. But usally there will be some unusual chain racket just about he time it starts to grab and stop the tire. if you have that noise...pull your sprockets and check for wear...raised teeth, twisted teeth or curled or worn teeth. this caused binding and eventually will twist the rivets in you chain to breakage. mine happended to be in the front sprocket, which is easiest to check...but check the bearings first...

You;ll hear clicking or binding if its chain and sprocket wear. if your not hearing that, then its most likely bearings or warped rotor or brake caliper.

Doesn't have a chain on it and the sprockets check out fine. I've already given them a looksee over. The bearings are great. When I pulled the wheels apart to paint them I cleaned out the grease and checked the bearings to see whats up and they checked out fine. The wheel spun good when I had it on with out the caliper so that's what I figured. More or less how much wheel travel should I expect?

 

[TheCafeKid]

Doesn't have a chain on it and the sprockets check out fine. I've already given them a looksee over. The bearings are great. When I pulled the wheels apart to paint them I cleaned out the grease and checked the bearings to see whats up and they checked out fine. The wheel spun good when I had it on with out the caliper so that's what I figured. More or less how much wheel travel should I expect?

Should spin fairly freely...Id start with flushing out the system real well with clean brake fluid...pay attn to whether or not the pads, especailly the rear pad comes off the disc freely...if it doesnt, loosen the bleeder valve on that side, pust the pad back tight it down and see if when you hit the rear pedal a few times if its sticking...thats the problem im having...Ive rebuild my MC, tore the caliper apart a couple times and cleaned it and still had the problem. so im using a different caliper, and we'll see how that goes...if thats still a problem its on to the rubber brake line that connects to the caliper...as Steve has said sometimes the inner tube colapses, especailly when they are old and wont allow pressure to come back to the MC. if thats the prob then that gets fixed...and i should be good togo.

 

[Ironriot]

Should spin fairly freely...Id start with flushing out the system real well with clean brake fluid...pay attn to whether or not the pads, especailly the rear pad comes off the disc freely...if it doesnt, loosen the bleeder valve on that side, pust the pad back tight it down and see if when you hit the rear pedal a few times if its sticking...thats the problem im having...Ive rebuild my MC, tore the caliper apart a couple times and cleaned it and still had the problem. so im using a different caliper, and we'll see how that goes...if thats still a problem its on to the rubber brake line that connects to the caliper...as Steve has said sometimes the inner tube colapses, especailly when they are old and wont allow pressure to come back to the MC. if thats the prob then that gets fixed...and i should be good togo.

Sounds like its gonna be my caliper then. Its not connected to the MC because I took the brake hose off. And for sure that wheel doesn't spin freely. Ah well looks like I'm in the market for a rebuild kit.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Sounds like its gonna be my caliper then. Its not connected to the MC because I took the brake hose off. And for sure that wheel doesn't spin freely. Ah well looks like I'm in the market for a rebuild kit.

Id test it with the brake hose connected to the MC first...you'll not get the return pressure without it...its a sealed system, and if its sucking air its not going to return properly. Check that first, but on a bike that old a rebuild kit for both the MC and the caliper may not be a bad idea anyway, and they're pretty cheap. Id try to get the caliper kit from BikeBandit as i believe thiers actually includes the piston cups and not just the seals alone..if your piston cups are pitted or corroded it will effect its slide back. You can pull the piston cups out and inspect them first if you want, but i think the difference in the Z1 rebuild which is only seals and the BikeBandit version which includes cups is only like 8 or ten bucks...if there is just some slight gunk and corrosion on your piston cups, steel wool should take care of it pretty good. dont forget to pull the rubber seal out of the inner piston cup seat itself and clean all the gook out of that. Build up there will push on your cup causing it to bind and not want to return. Lemme know what you find, cos im currently experimenting with used stuff here myself.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Oh and when cleaning them, use brake parts cleaner, as other stuff will swell when hot and cause problems as well, found that out first hand. Try not to get any of the rubber seals with that cleaner tho...not good for em

 

[Ironriot]

Id test it with the brake hose connected to the MC first...you'll not get the return pressure without it...its a sealed system, and if its sucking air its not going to return properly. Check that first, but on a bike that old a rebuild kit for both the MC and the caliper may not be a bad idea anyway, and they're pretty cheap. Id try to get the caliper kit from BikeBandit as i believe thiers actually includes the piston cups and not just the seals alone..if your piston cups are pitted or corroded it will effect its slide back. You can pull the piston cups out and inspect them first if you want, but i think the difference in the Z1 rebuild which is only seals and the BikeBandit version which includes cups is only like 8 or ten bucks...if there is just some slight gunk and corrosion on your piston cups, steel wool should take care of it pretty good. dont forget to pull the rubber seal out of the inner piston cup seat itself and clean all the gook out of that. Build up there will push on your cup causing it to bind and not want to return. Lemme know what you find, cos im currently experimenting with used stuff here myself.

Yeah I'll probably take a look at that in the next few days to make sure that all is good. I'll report back with my finding results.

On another topic do you know what these are listed under on parts sites?
I can't seem to find them anywhere

Notice they have those stupid O-rings inside and I'm worried those are gonna start leaking

 

[TheCafeKid]

Yeah I'll probably take a look at that in the next few days to make sure that all is good. I'll report back with my finding results.

On another topic do you know what these are listed under on parts sites?
I can't seem to find them anywhere

Notice they have those stupid O-rings inside and I'm worried those are gonna start leaking

mine look like they have orings but they arent...its just the way the rubber is molded to seal around the carb body

 

[n1elkyfan]

Well I got those shorter shock on my bike and figure I would post some pictures up. Thanks again TCK

Before

After

Know I have a few little inconviences. First Its a lot harder to get it on the center stand. Secound the chain is know rubbing.

 

[TheCafeKid]

rubbing what? It for sure looks a bit more aggressive.

 

[n1elkyfan]

I'm not sure but its clicking now and its definitely looser. I have another chain that I can put on but I figure I should check the front sprocket and maker sure its not worn out

 

[TheCafeKid]

I'm not sure but its clicking now and its definitely looser. I have another chain that I can put on but I figure I should check the front sprocket and maker sure its not worn out

Clicking...Put on the center stand..good luck ghehee and spin it...find out if its touching something, but that sounds like a sprocket to me...had the same sound on my KZ and the front sprocket was toast...if the sprocket is a 15 toother ive got a good used one you can have.

 

[n1elkyfan]

Cool I'll have to check on it here shortly

 

[TheCafeKid]

Cool I'll have to check on it here shortly

BTW untill you figure that out..i wouldnt ride very far on it...i made that mistake and it not only could have killed me, but when i stopped to see what was going on..the chain fell apart in my hand. that bent sprocket tooth (if thats what it is) will start shaving your rivet heads off...My stepdads buddy had a chain break on him like that at 35 mph...wraped up in the rear wheel slammed the bike to a stop more or less and tossed him off the front and broke his neck. And yes he WAS wearing a helmet.

 

[n1elkyfan]

With it not charging I can't really ride it much at all.

 

[TheCafeKid]

With it not charging I can't really ride it much at all.

True... why dont you just come over and get the damn regulator too. You need to be rolling

 

[n1elkyfan]

Well I got the parts to build that one I just got to find the time to do it.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Welp im ready to go as far as parts, all my new rings are installed and my jets too...just need a synch and start running some plug chop tests to see where im at. I need to order a new baffle for my meg tho, so i might wanna wait till i do that in case it messes with my backpressure.

 

[n1elkyfan]

Way to go hopefully it doesn't take you to long to get it all tuned up. I don't know if the baffle would make a diffrence or not but knowing the way these bikes work I would bet it would

I went to look at my sprocket but will have to wait till tomorrow so I can
borrow an impact driver from one of the guys at work.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Way to go hopefully it doesn't take you to long to get it all tuned up. I don't know if the baffle would make a diffrence or not but knowing the way these bikes work I would bet it would

I went to look at my sprocket but will have to wait till tomorrow so I can
borrow an impact driver from one of the guys at work.

You're going to want to take it off to look at it...you wont be able to tell from looking at it from the side unless one tooth is really raised...look down the teeth also for twisting, raised teeth or excessively worn ones. Your manual will show ya too.