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TheCafeKid

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ironriot
  • Start date Start date
YExample, my Ranger. It has a crappy four cylinder BUT the 2.3L is about the toughest sonofab!tch you'd ever find in four cylinder form. Running it without oil is the only known way to kill it lol. Even at that you need to run it for a pretty good while without oil. :-D

I had that engine in my first car, a 1980 Mercury Capri. I think I had about 100,000 miles on it. I started to get a knock in the engine, then one day it got really bad and also lost all power. I threw a valve rocker and sheered a lobe off the cam. Roughly $200 (which is a huge hit for a 17 year old) and considerable effort later I fixed it. 6 months later the noise came back. I'm guessing I wasn't getting all the oil up in the valve cover that I should have.

Every now and again the second rocker would get thrown. I got exceptionally proficient at pulling over, removing the air cleaner, the valve cover, placing a 6 inch piece of pipe on the rocker, one precise hit with a mallet, pop it back in place, reassemble and be back on the road. All in less than 10 minutes. I kept all the necessary tools in a box.

I eventually suffered a cataclysm of electrical, ignition, rust, wheel problems that led to me having it towed out of my back yard. I almost wept, and I didn't own another car for a few years.

It was the ugliest car I have ever owned, and I have owned some ugly ones. Orange with an orange/brown interior. I wouldn't exactly call the engine bulletproof though. Now I drive an F150 with the 4.9l straight six. That thing has proven to be a workhorse (knock on wood).
 
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I had that engine in my first car, a 1980 Mercury Capri. I think I had about 100,000 miles on it. I started to get a knock in the engine, then one day it got really bad and also lost all power. I threw a valve rocker and sheered a lobe off the cam. Roughly $200 (which is a huge hit for a 17 year old) and considerable effort later I fixed it. 6 months later the noise came back. I'm guessing I wasn't getting all the oil up in the valve cover that I should have.

Every now and again the second rocker would get thrown. I got exceptionally proficient at pulling over, removing the air cleaner, the valve cover, placing a 6 inch piece of pipe on the rocker, one precise hit with a mallet, pop it back in place, reassemble and be back on the road. All in less than 10 minutes.

I eventually suffered a cataclysm of electrical, ignition, rust, wheel problems that led to me having it towed out of my bike yard. I almost wept, and I didn't own another car for a few years.

It was the ugliest car I have ever owned, and I have owned some ugly ones. Orange with an orange/brown interior. I wouldn't exactly call the engine bulletproof though. Now I drive an F150 with the 4.9l straight six. That thing has proven to be a workhorse (knock on wood).
I can attest to that Ford motor...best american vehicle ive ever owned. That thing literally fell apart around the motor which still pulled like a freight train! I had the four on the floor standard tranny, went thru 4 clutches and a snapped shifter and the motor still pulled. The truck finally succumbed to frame rust, thanks to these wonderfull Ohio winterizing techniques down here, but that motor STILL ticked as happy as you please.

EDIT>> Im speaking of the 4.9L straight six...
 
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I had that engine in my first car, a 1980 Mercury Capri. I think I had about 100,000 miles on it. I started to get a knock in the engine, then one day it got really bad and also lost all power. I threw a valve rocker and sheered a lobe off the cam. Roughly $200 (which is a huge hit for a 17 year old) and considerable effort later I fixed it. 6 months later the noise came back. I'm guessing I wasn't getting all the oil up in the valve cover that I should have.

Every now and again the second rocker would get thrown. I got exceptionally proficient at pulling over, removing the air cleaner, the valve cover, placing a 6 inch piece of pipe on the rocker, one precise hit with a mallet, pop it back in place, reassemble and be back on the road. All in less than 10 minutes. I kept all the necessary tools in a box.

I eventually suffered a cataclysm of electrical, ignition, rust, wheel problems that led to me having it towed out of my back yard. I almost wept, and I didn't own another car for a few years.

It was the ugliest car I have ever owned, and I have owned some ugly ones. Orange with an orange/brown interior. I wouldn't exactly call the engine bulletproof though. Now I drive an F150 with the 4.9l straight six. That thing has proven to be a workhorse (knock on wood).


There were alot of changes between your engine and mine. For example I have a Hydraulic Roller cam. Which basically requires NO maintence over the life of the vehicle. You had what I'm sure to be is a mechanical roller cam. Does last ALOT longer than solid lift cams and require little to no adjusting but they eventually do wear out. As for the other things? I dunno about all those other problems. Maybe just Michigan weather killed it. BUT my truck survives through Texas heat. And its been surviving. I got over 150,000 miles on it and not so much as a wimper. The engine, albeit slow as it is, still pulls. And that's because alot of those miles weren't put on by me. For all I know the PO treated it like sh!t. I'm not even religious with maintence. Even though I should be. I'd put my money that this engine will last to 200K no prob, hell even 250K
 
toyota 2.4 l 22r


argurably the most reliable gasoline powered engine in the world.

Don't blashamize this thread with your Toyota stuff. Honestly they're some of the biggest pieces of sh!ts I've ever had the displeasure of working on. And three of them were owned by people in the family so I didn't even get compensated. And the rest were jobs I had to do at the mechanic shop I worked at. Stupid things always had that little knack where if they failed it was something MAJOR. Like a distributor or something. And of course becuase its foreign the parts where always expensive and difficult to track down.

And I will argue for the most reliable engine in the world. That title is held by Saab recently and Mercedes before that.
 
And I will argue for the most reliable engine in the world. That title is held by Saab recently and Mercedes before that.

Bleah. You're both wrong. Most reliable engine in the world is an XR250. Short of running it out of oil, nothing will kill an XR...:-D

Mark
 
If it was a battle of easiest/cheapest to fix I would go with a sbc you can litlely go any where in America and many of places around the world and get parts for it for a fraction of the price of other engines.
 
If it was a battle of easiest/cheapest to fix I would go with a sbc you can litlely go any where in America and many of places around the world and get parts for it for a fraction of the price of other engines.

You're my new best friend lol. American cars are the only thing I'll ever drive.

SBC's started it all. Anyone argue with me and I'll kill you over it :-D
 
Bleah. You're both wrong. Most reliable engine in the world is an XR250. Short of running it out of oil, nothing will kill an XR...:-D

Mark

Yeah but its a Honda. Who wants to get caught on one of those? :-D
Speaking of Honda those little Ruckus scooters they make have some crazy little engines. Its probably just a lawnmower engine right but man if it doesn't take a licking and keep on kicking. One dude on a Ruckus forum drove one WITHOUT OIL and it still didn't kill it
 
The BEST engine on ANY vehicle i ever owned was my Mercedes 300SD. Deisel. I bought it with 200,000 miles on it for 900 bucks. Mercedes doesnt even look at overhauls/rebuilds till half a million miles on their deisels provided they've been maintained properly. I put another 80,000 on that car, changed the pads and front rotors, and sold it for 2400 bucks. Wish i hadnt now, as it got killer mileage being a diesel.
 
Diesel's last forever and I love em for it. Big news in the truck industry. The U.S. finally regulated 1/2 ton diesels. So in 2009 or 2010 we're gonna have Silverado 1500 diesels and F-150 Diesels. I think its MAJOR news. They're gonna make something to the tune of 300 rhwp and 500 ft lb torque. I can't wait. Although I'd have a tough time deciding between a diesel Silverado and a gas powered one because the LS series of engines get some CRAZY gas mileage. Well crazy for being a full sized V8 truck
 
The 80?? Yeah its got dual front disc, tho. And these are the newer style calipers, with the rectangluar pads. Dunno if your bike was set up for dual disc or not.
 
But if you're SOL man, lemme know we can work somethin out for the fork lowers (if your bike isnt set up with dual disc, i cant remember off the top of my head) the rotors and calipers. I am going to have no use for em so..
 
Hey I snapped some pics of the pins just incase you needed some verification. In the fiche it looks like our rear calipers are identical so....
Picsfromcamera088.jpg


Picsfromcamera089.jpg
 
Bah hell see thats how i put em back together cos that made sense. The schematic is obviously wrong, cos if you do it the other way, the pins would slide out of the holes on the inside caliper...the only thing preventing that would be the rotor spacing. I think. Stoopid Clymer. OH i have the shop manual on PDF here...DUH i bet that shows it set up our way too.
 
But if you're SOL man, lemme know we can work somethin out for the fork lowers (if your bike isnt set up with dual disc, i cant remember off the top of my head) the rotors and calipers. I am going to have no use for em so..

Well my caliper has a rectangular disk and 80 and 81 parts have been known to be the exact same but I'm wondering if they'd be pyshically smaller than a single disk set up caliper.

My problem is that I'm trying to find a replacement caliper, a la the kind 8track is using the two piston one. BUT I can only find for the right side and that's not the side I need. So I'm saying fvck it if I can't find anything I'll just try a caliper off of a bigger bike. And well yours is a 750..... I only need the left caliper though... You wouldn't by any chance have pics of it would you?
 
Well my caliper has a rectangular disk and 80 and 81 parts have been known to be the exact same but I'm wondering if they'd be pyshically smaller than a single disk set up caliper.

My problem is that I'm trying to find a replacement caliper, a la the kind 8track is using the two piston one. BUT I can only find for the right side and that's not the side I need. So I'm saying fvck it if I can't find anything I'll just try a caliper off of a bigger bike. And well yours is a 750..... I only need the left caliper though... You wouldn't by any chance have pics of it would you?
Actually you're in luck...hold please..
 
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