think i fixed it?

[racer x]

well i had no power to my lights, and gauge lights, on my 79 gs 1000, i looked, and tracked the ,o/r wire that feeds me power to my left control switch, but no luck, it seems i have a reading w/ a meter, but wont work under load, so i ended up using a wire tap, a (367), and tapping to the grey in my wire harness and back feeding the power, so i have lights, but the left control switch will not turn them off, only the key does, and im afraid the grey is a size smaller then the o/r, concerned w/ the lights on all the time, it could heat up and burn the grey? maybe fuse the circuit down to the grey circuit to the wire max potencial??, the grey is for the gauge, and license plate lights, was my only thing i could do to get me rolling, will watch carefully.

 

[Steve]

If you can't find your actual wiring problem, you could use your tap off the gray wire to trigger a relay that would back-feed the lights, instead of the gray wire itself.

Nothing magical about a relay, it's just a remote-control switch. In this case, you would be applying power to the gray wire by turning on the ignition switch. The gray wire would then turn on the relay, which would provide power to the lights.

.

 

[racer x]

gs 1000 lites

gs 1000 lites

ya thanks for giving me a option, that would be great, id really like to have my left control switch work, cause w/ the gs stators, it might be a problem using the light all the time, so i will need to find a relay big enough for the headlite, and gauge lites, i know im going around the problem, its just strange that in the short distance from the switch to the headlite, i can have such a headache??, the wire diagram shows the o/r, coming straight from the fuse box, to the control switch, and out to the headlamp, and gauge running lites, things go wrong somewhere in the molex connector, or the switch itself, maybe try a different left control switch?, and im wondering why?, the gs's get burned connectors under the seat, in the big wad coming from the fuse box, that should not happen, just a suzuki thing?

 

[Steve]

ya thanks for giving me a option, that would be great, id really like to have my left control switch work, cause w/ the gs stators, it might be a problem using the light all the time, so i will need to find a relay big enough for the headlite, and gauge lites, i know im going around the problem, its just strange that in the short distance from the switch to the headlite, i can have such a headache??, the wire diagram shows the o/r, coming straight from the fuse box, to the control switch, and out to the headlamp, and gauge running lites, things go wrong somewhere in the molex connector, or the switch itself, maybe try a different left control switch?, and im wondering why?, the gs's get burned connectors under the seat, in the big wad coming from the fuse box, that should not happen, just a suzuki thing?

Actually, using the light is a good thing. The more you can use and not make the regulator shunt so much to ground, the better.

Use a test light, probe the wires on each side of each connector, you will soon find where you are losing your power.

They get burned because the connection is poor enough to make it arc across a tiny little gap. Now there is a larger gap, larger arc, etc. You know why welding uses an electric arc? Because it's HOT. What you have going on in those poor connections is little tiny arc welders, just sitting there, making HEAT.

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[Guest]

When I changed my motor last week, I found most of the burnt connectors on my '78 went back to the stator wiring. If you have any high contact resistance in those connectors, I would replace them before trying any trouble shooting of electrical circuits.