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Think I found it

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hinermad
  • Start date Start date
H

Hinermad

Guest
I bought my current bike last summer, knowing it needed a little work. It ran poorly, not much power, wanted to stall unless I held the throttle or left some choke on while I rode it. And sometimes it'd stall anyway.

Started taking it apart today and I think I already found the problem: the seal around the air filter where it presses against the cage in the airbox is about half MIA, and the air boot to the #4 carbueretor was loose. The rubber seals on the airbox ends look like they're okay though.

I went ahead and pulled off the carbs because I want to dip them, and I also pulled the valve cover because I want to check the tappet clearances. I don't think that cover has ever been off the bike before, because the gasket came off in pieces. Then I found out my feeler gauges aren't the right thickness anyway. So there'll be no riding until I get the new gaskets and tools I just ordered.

I have a question though. I went ahead and checked the thicknesses of the valve shims with a caliper, even though I can't check the clearance yet. But on one valve, the shim bucket wouldn't rotate around to where I could reach into the notch and pull out the shim. Any suggestions? I couldn't see where the notch was or else I'd have tried to snag it with a hook and pull it around. All the other buckets would turn just by prying them gently with a screwdriver.
 
Probably have to depress that tight one were its at to remove the shim. And DO NIT trust the sizes marked on them as they wear. Check each one with a dial caliper or micrometer to see what it actually is so you get then proper replacement for them.

The services section has the GS SHIM CLUB so dont go buying shims. PM Ray and let him know what you need, swap yours out when they arrive , and send your swapped out ones back to Ray. And never rotate the crank with a shim out of a bucket as it will scar the cam lobes. Always have a shim in before rotation.
 
I've run into the same thing with a shim bucket not rotating freely. The only way I was able to get the shim out was to depress that bucket as far as I could using a double zip tie and then give the bucket a little whack with a hammer. Takes a few times but the shim will pop loose.
 
Round 2:

I managed to get the shim with the stuck bucket out, so I'm all set to get my valve clearances in line. New shims are inbound now. I tip my hat to Steve: thanks for the spreadsheet, and for the suggestion to check all clearances with my smallest shim. A couple need to be smaller than the spreadsheet suggested because the original clearance was pretty much nonexistent.

Also, "Think I found it" part II: Replaced the intake o-rings. Fixing the gaskets in the airbox helped a little with the stalling and erratic idle, but didn't fix it. The old o-rings looked like someone had just poured epoxy into the grooves in the boots, they were so flat. We'll see how it goes, but I still need to dip the carbs.
 
MUCH better!

Fixed the airbox gaskets, replaced the air boots, replaced the intake O-rings, dipped the carbs, adjusted the valve clearances, and took it for a spin. Now it acts like it's actually excited to get up and go from a stop instead of the "do I have to?" attitude I used to get.

Still need to balance the carbs and install new exhaust pipe gaskets, but it's rideable now. Onward!
 
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