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Thought paint stripper was bad

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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Rebuilding and painting my GSX, after the mishap with the paint stripper (see my previous night mare) everthing was going great. Followed the instructions on painting your bike from this great site :D . Grey primer, paint, and clear lacquer sanded it down with wet and dry, used bubbing compound and finely finnishing wax. God this looked good realy realy good, :P but you know the rag you put in the tank to stop any crap falling in, well the rag fell in while polishing it. Now the nightmare begins, fishing the rag out picked up some fuel left in bottom of tank. This spashed on the tank and arggggggg :cry: took paint off straight through to primer. Moral is make shure all paint is removed from tank or else be prepared to start painting again. :cry:
 
good point. better point: dont use non catalist paints on the tank, any fuel drips when you put fuel in will eat the paint.
 
Yeah, 3 years on regular spray paint and your bike will turn into a spiderweb of hairline cracks in the paint. You can almost see the primer through the cracks in the paint on my 400.

Steve
 
Paint Stripper Etc.

Paint Stripper Etc.

You can find spray can paint that is ressitant to fuel spills after it cures. Enamel coatings and their urethane cousins offer superior chemical resistance because of the molecular changes they go through as they cure. The molecules actually cross-link as they bond with oxygen.

Acrylic Lacquer dries quickly, but it never cures. You can remove 50 year old lacquer with a rag that has lacquer thinner on it with little effort. Lacquer offers some benefits such as quick dry time and buffability, however the lack of chemical and UV resistance really tip the scales in my opinion.
 
Ok thanks for the tips. Any suggestions on what paint to use on the tank?.Thanks again :cry:
 
Choosing a Coating

Choosing a Coating

Let's see...

1. Do you have access to a compressor and a spray gun?

2. Is the color (or colour on the other side of the pond) you desire a solid or metallic?

3. As best you can, define what you want from the finished product. (ie on a scale of 1-10, 10 being very high quality)

After we define these things I can give you an idea what might work best for you. I hope my advise will help, however it may be a bit vague with the differences in the products you and I have to choose from. It is my understanding that in Europe waterbourne finishes dominate. This is a technology that has yet to be seen on a large scale in North America. I will do my level best though.
 
Hi thanks, ok right no compressor just spray cans and lots of elbow grease. The item is a fuel tank gloss black just need a nice shine that fuel will not bring off. Thanks again :D
 
Spray Can Tip

Spray Can Tip

Here is my opinion on how you can refinish by using aerosol paints and primers.

1. Cleaning: Wash all parts with warm soapy water and rinse well with clean water. This will aid adhesion and prevent problems down the road.

2. Primer: I would use a primer containing zinc chromate because of its ability to resist corrosion. Look for products marketed as "self etching" as a clue. Finish sand the primer with 600 grit sandpaper; preferably with water. Use a flexible sanding block or sponge to make certain you don't create grooves with your fingers.

3. Topcoat: Apply topcoat (use enamel or acrylic enamel) allowing enough time between coats so that the that you can lightly touch. This indicates that the solvent have begun to disperse. I would apply at least 6 coats. Spray can paint has a low percent of solids by volume and you need to apply quite a few coats to get a decent mil thickness.

4. In Closing: Allow the finish to cure properly. I would let it sit overnight in a well ventilated area that is at least 60 degrees Farenheight. Enamel paint goes through a chemical change on a molecular level as it cures. This is what sets it apart from Acrylic Lacquer. This curing process will allow it to better resist assault from gasoline and other enemies. The finish is fully cured for the most part when it stops emitting a solvent scent. It can take anywhere from 1 to 30 days for this process. You can however buff the finish with a compund that does not contain wax within a day. Generally it is better to do this as soon as feasible. This because the paint is easier to buff while it is still green. You can also use 1500 grit sandpaper to remove surface imperfections and to reduce texture. You should follow wetsanding with compund to achieve high gloss. Try not to generate to much heat.
 
Going to try it your way, with the tank anyway. Thanks again :D
 
It has been my pleasure, I assure you I am a better painter than I am a typist. Please let me know how works out for you. I should expect to see it as one of the monthly pinup bikes in the near future.
 
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