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Throttle Cable Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter bgk
  • Start date Start date
B

bgk

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My bike is a 1979 GS1000L, with VM carbs (which require push and pull throttle cables) and with the chopper-style pull-back ?wheelbarrow? handlebars and stepped seat. Last year I cut 3-inches off of each handlebar end and modified my seat to improve my riding position (which was an ?most excellent? mod for me).

As a result of cutting the handlebars and thereby moving the grips forward, the cables now stick out quite a bit in front of the handlebars and look a little funny, but they just clear behind my windshield and I have not experienced any operational problems with the cables at all due to the handlebar cut.

Anyway, in the last few months, my throttle cables got a little stiff, and like an idiot, I lubed them with PJ-1 Blue chain lube! It actually worked well, but in the last few weeks the throttle grip has gotten stiffer and stiffer, and it has become very fatiguing to operate the throttle on longer rides. I have no idea how old my throttle cables are. They possibly could be the original cables, or they could have been changed by a previous owner.

Here?s my questions:

Is it worth it to try and ?flush? out the PJ-1 lube and then use a ?proper? cable lube?

If so, how do I do it and what product(s) should I use?

If I just choose to buy brand new cables, would throttle cables from a 1979 GS850G ?standard? work on my bike?

Another way to ask the last question is: Does anybody know how/where to look up the lengths of Suzuki throttle cables from different models/years?

Neither Dennis Kirk nor Cycle-Re-Cycle nor Bike Bandit lists throttle cables for my bike. Does that mean I have to buy them at full list price from Suzuki?

Any other ideas, suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 
Re: Throttle Cable Questions

Usually, when the cables get stiff, its because of rust build up in the casing, and the cable itself is well rusted/frayed. I wouldnt bother to try to flush it and reuse it as it will probably break soon anyway. :-) I have three or four different throttle cables in my shop. What length is yours? If I know the length, I may be able to suggest something that is about the same length.

Earl
 
First of all, get rid of the PJ lube. Buy Maxima Chain Wax. The PJ simply doesn't protect o-rings like the Maxima.
As for your cables, it sounds like they were getting stiffer before you applied the PJ. Probably due to you cutting off some bar and now the larger loop in the cables is causing more friction and the cables are digging into their sheaths. Shorter cables are the true fix, but if you clean the old cables up, you may be OK.
I would soak/rinse the cables in kerosene for several hours and see if that melts the PJ out. Move the sheaths back and forth a lot. Other harsher cleaners may cut the PJ, but they may also make the sheath brittle or damage it in other ways.
After drying, use either a cable lube, or some simple mineral oil, etc.
You can also get a lighter throttle spring for the carbs at any hardware store.
 
Funny you should mention chain lubes. :-) This past three months, I have stopped using any kind of motorcycle chain lube or chain wax. Instead, I have been using Boeshield T-9. Its a waterproof corrosion block lubricant made by Boeing. It does not collect/hold dirt or grit, does not sling off, is clear and lasts really well. A light misting of the chain every 1000 miles is sufficient.
It can also be used to lubricate rubber bushings, corrosion block battery terminals and connectors, lube instruments/cable drives, locks and corrosion proof wiring and electronics.

Earl

KEITH KRAUSE said:
First of all, get rid of the PJ lube. Buy Maxima Chain Wax. The PJ simply doesn't protect o-rings like the Maxima.
Click to expand...
 
Stock cable length for a 79 GS1000 with VM carbs and standard rise bars are 42 1/2" for inner and 35 7/16" for the outer casing (measured from the end of the adjuster). Unhook one end of your cable and route it the way you want then measure yours, substact what you think you need and see if this length cable will work.
 
Thanks for the info, guys.

This weekend, I'll pull the cables off, and measure them.

There's 8-inches of snow outside, and rain/snow showers forecast for this weekend in New England, so it looks like I won't be riding for a while.

Earl, is there an internet source for the Boeing lube?
 
I get it through work. Any marine or auto parts store should have it or be able to order it. Online, you can get it here............
http://www.properautocare.com/boeshieldt9.html
Its about the same cost as a large can of chain lube, but it only takes about 1/3 as much. Good stuff, beats the heck out of WD-40 as a water barrier too. :-)

Its nice having the chain always look like a new chain without any gunk buildup and no stiff links either. Its best the first time to use some kerosene and a brush and clean off all the old chain wax and build up so you get rid of the grit. Its the grit that wears out the "O" rings on the chain. If you dont have kerosene, mineral spirits will work about as well.
Dont use gasoline, it softens the "O" rings.

Earl



bgk said:
Thanks for the info, guys.

This weekend, I'll pull the cables off, and measure them.

There's 8-inches of snow outside, and rain/snow showers forecast for this weekend in New England, so it looks like I won't be riding for a while.

Earl, is there an internet source for the Boeing lube?
Click to expand...
 
Just a quick follow-up and thanks for your responses.

I decided to just order new OEM cables for the GS1000L direct from my local Suzuki dealer. I figure, if the old OEM cables for the ?L? model worked fine for a year with 3-inches less handlebar, then brand-new ones will work even better.
 
Just remember - lube the new cables before you install them
 
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