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Throttle kills engine

  • Thread starter Thread starter giganticflying
  • Start date Start date
Nah, choking the plugs turns them purple. You likely have the African American plugs. You want the Caucasian version. Specify the Cali tip for that just right tan color. :p
 
Ok, so today when I got to the garage I set the air screws and the idle screw back to default turns and it started up with choke! I let it warm up for about 45 secs and when I took the choke off it died. I after a couple more tries I was able to get it to idle at around 2500-3000. When I took it off choke, it dropped down to about 1200, stayed there for a while, then died. I started it up again without choke and by revving the throttle a little I got it to stay on. After a while, I decided to take it for a ride and it drove ok!

Here's the deal, though. I noticed that exhaust pipes #3 and #4 at the engine were not as hot as the others when i first started it up. They eventually both got up roughly the same temp (my palm at a distance is not a good measurement, I know) but there is some occasional burbling out of the exhaust pipe they're connected too. I gave a small turn on the air screws for that side and it seemed to help a little, but when ride it, throttling is a little shaky, especially in first gear. Any recommendations? I'm going to purchase a manometer soon, and try to do a plug test later this week so I can fine tune the fuel screws. I did previously do bench sync. My buddy is bringing me a volt meter tomorrow just in case its something to do with a low spark or something.
 
In the beginning, I had similar issues and solved them by switching to a Dyna-S ignition and 8mm suppression wires. I never looked back, there was quite a positive difference and I would probably still be chasing my tail if I hadn't made the change. Eliminating all possible ignition problems is a huge step forward.
 
I've already ordered new points and condensers from ebay so those should be arriving soon.

I am happy to say that I am able to ride it around now! Just I'm just not going to do it often until I can figure out why the acceleration is shaky. Currently, it idles around 1,500 after its warm.
 
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Ok, so today when I got to the garage I set the air screws and the idle screw back to default turns and it started up with choke! I let it warm up for about 45 secs and when I took the choke off it died. I after a couple more tries I was able to get it to idle at around 2500-3000. When I took it off choke, it dropped down to about 1200, stayed there for a while, then died. I started it up again without choke and by revving the throttle a little I got it to stay on. After a while, I decided to take it for a ride and it drove ok!
What you describe here is classic symptoms of a dirty and/or varnished pilot circuit with the emphathis on VARNISHED. Your pilot circuit is NOT delivering adequate fuel, that's why when it's cold/warming up, it runs only with choke. Once it reaches operating temperature the overall "conditions" tend to richen and combustion improves though I can tell you it's not running well. Once it reaches operating temperature the improvement has you thinking it's OK but it's still not getting enough fuel. The carbs are NOT cleaned correctly regardless of what your efforts have been.
It's also true as others have said, that this bike has multiple issues. The stock points/condenser system is weak and must be well maintained to work properly. New points/condenser isn't half of it. Proper points gap/alignment/dwell must be set, then you adjust the advance properly. Check the coils for adequate primary/secondary voltage. Check reg/rec' voltages. All the electrical things just mentioned depends on a good battery.
I've read enough here that it's clear you have multiple issues, some requiring attention more than others maybe, but multiple issues all the same.
It's an old bike. It takes patience and money and effort to get it running well. Short cuts or partial maintenance, for whatever reason(s), will never achieve good results. It's just the way it is with old stuff.
 
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