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Time to change fork seals 82 GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Muser3
  • Start date Start date
M

Muser3

Guest
I have changed fork seals before but not on the anti-dive forks. Before I tear the forks down is there anything I need to know? I have read the service manual and the tutorial for the 750 forks by Mr. Bass Cliff. Any tips would be appreciated.
thanks
Lee :-D
 
Muser3 said:
I have changed fork seals before but not on the anti-dive forks. Before I tear the forks down is there anything I need to know? I have read the service manual and the tutorial for the 750 forks by Mr. Bass Cliff. Any tips would be appreciated.
thanks
Lee :-D
Click to expand...

Nothing different in taking the forks apart, the anti-dive mechanism is separate to the fork internals. Best advice is to get a set of Progressive Suspension springs, don't use air pressure and block off the anti-dive system. It improves suspension action, brake lever feel and simplifies bleeding significantly.

Mark
 
My EZ was a PITA. It was the allan bolt in the bottom. I had to, and I would suggest...

Soak the snot outa that allan bolt with PB Blaster.
Get a real 8mm (5/16") allan 3/8 drive socket for that bolt.
Make the special tool for the inner damper or use the flipped over spk plug socket with a long extension.
Have a clean well lit place to work.
Take some pics for yourself and us too.

Good luck and keep us posted....
 
I have heard of using air pressure to pop the seals out. Pull up the dust covers, remove the retaining clips, and pump the forks up with air until the seals pop out. You may want to wrap rags around the forks to keep the oil from getting all over the place. I have not tried this method and it's only good for changing out the seals not the anti-friction material.
 
You might want to look into new bushings for the fork as well. There are two sets involved. Also flush the fork with kerosene or diesel. Fill it to within 4 or 5 inches of the top and pump the fork up and down to circulate the solvent. Drain and repeat two or three times to clean the innards up.
 
fork seals

fork seals

OK thanks gents. today is the day. I'll try to get some pics too.
Lee
 
I agree with bonanzadave, make up the T-bar to fit inside the fork tube to hold the allen bolt retainer it is worth the small amount of effort. It allows you to strip down the forks, clean and inspect everything and rebuild with minimum fuss. I made mine by welding a bolt that fits the retainer in the tube to a length of solid steel rod with a T handle on top, works just like Suzuki special tool # blah blah blah, cheers.

P.S. If you don't have access to a welder a workshop/friend or GSR member close by may be able to do the job. Material should only be a few dollars and the welding even at a workshop should not be more than $10-$20 as the weld should only take a few minutes to complete.
 
Last edited:
Fork seals DONE!

Fork seals DONE!

Well it's finished. Since my bike has less than 8000 miles I decided to fill the tubes With kerosene and pump a lot and flush them out really well, and not take them apart After the first flush, the solvent had very little color. I filtered the solvent through a couple of coffee filters and re-used it (tight bastid) and the insides are clean. I took some pics and will try to post them when I get the forks reassembled. I did use air to remove the seals and it went great! Splattered the kerosene that still in the fork tube all over me :oops: even though I thought I used enough rags to cover it. Second fork tube went much better. I used a short length of PVC pipe and a T to whack with the rubber mallet. All things considered it went very well thanks to the great help from the guys on the forum. THANKS!!
Lee :-D
 
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