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Time to Replace the Clutch Plates?

  • Thread starter Thread starter cptarmy2002
  • Start date Start date
C

cptarmy2002

Guest
1980 GS 550E - 20K miles, carbs just redone, new gas tank and stator. Had the bike for 25 years, so I know that it's the original clutch, but I do have a new clutch cable installed.

Bike starts and runs beautfully, nice steady idle at 1000-1100 rpm etc.

In neutral, the bike will rev right past 9500 without any hesitation or popping at all - no problems until I drive it.

Get it on the road and at about 6500 rpm in every gear the bike will feel like it's missing and not want to go above 6500 rpm.

Adjusted the clutch and it seems a little better, but it still doesn't want to go above that 6500 mark. In 6th gear that's about 65-70 mph, and I don't want to get on the highway for obvious reasons. In town when you can "short shift" it's fine, but I'd like to commute to work with it and that's 20 miles each way...

Does this seem like a clutch problem or do I need to go back to cleaning the carbs again?

Totally confused on this one?

Thanks,
Frank
 
No...pretty darn sure it's not the clutch...

Sounds like air/fuel or valves....
Have you adjusted the valves lately?
How are the intake boots?
Did it run OK before the carbs were "redone"...and what do you mean by "redone"...
 
If the clutch was slipping you would get more RPM and no power.

Air/fuel, valves, but also could be in the plug wires/ coils/ ignition area.

It looks to have electronic ignition, so no points to deal with, clean all connections.
 
Last edited:
A Friends thoughts that just e-mailed me

A Friends thoughts that just e-mailed me

It all most sounds like the advancer might be sticking pull the timing cover off and mark the pick up plate before you remove it and check the timing advancer to see if it moves freely rotate the barrel and move the weights out to the stops and see if the springs return it, you may have to take it apart and clean it if the advancer is OK, then check the atomizer tubes in the carburetors
 
Its easy enough to remove the friction plates,steels and springs. Measure them and compare them to the specs in the manual. Then you will know.
 
I would say Air/fuel if you are running rich it will rev just fine until you put it under load it will never get up to speed. If you have pods you can tape them off or take them off. If it gets better with them off your rich, if it runs better taped of your lean. You can do the same with the air box take the element out run it and see what happens. You have to get it out on the road under load to see what it's doing.
 
If it was the advance you wouldn't go above 2500 rpms without missing.
Check ignition and blocked main jets.
 
Sigh...

Sigh...

Well I guess it's off with the carbs yet again...I'll keep everyone updated on the progress this weekend...

Thanks for the advice...
 
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