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Timing Chain

  • Thread starter Thread starter KrazyKarl02
  • Start date Start date
K

KrazyKarl02

Guest
Ok, here is my wild and wierd question, in the 80's when the GS bikes were in their prime they used to sell a replacemant timing chain, that was not seemless, you could cut your old chain, link this to it and pull it through, then you just used a master link, like in a drive chain.
My question is do they still make these and if so, where can you get them, Oh I am trying to put it on a 1978 GS 1000.

Thanks
 
do a forum search It has been discussed before, It can be done some people say to do it others say No. Mfg say No because of the liability problems if the chain comes appart. Maybe with a rivet type master link
 
I really don't see the problem with joining a chain. I come from a farming background using combines with over a dozen chains on them. I have never had a master link come undone. If my timing chain needs replacement, I am going down to the local ag supplier picking up some high quality high speed chain and a master link, cutting the stock one out and feeding in the replacement. Yes, and then putting a master link on it.
 
Clone said:
I really don't see the problem with joining a chain. I come from a farming background using combines with over a dozen chains on them. I have never had a master link come undone. If my timing chain needs replacement, I am going down to the local ag supplier picking up some high quality high speed chain and a master link, cutting the stock one out and feeding in the replacement. Yes, and then putting a master link on it.
Click to expand...
Locating a source of chain links has been a problem for me--So you say a real aggie place should have the items needed.
 
I have used farm chain for the drive chain on my 77 550 and had decent luck. The only problem that a person could run in to is that most farm chains are not pre-stretched.
 
Ag centers and most bearing supply houses will have "straight chain", or non-O-ring chain in various sizes and strengths. Usually sold by the foot or sometimes by the link. Take a sample with you for what size and strength you want.
 
Clone said:
Ag centers and most bearing supply houses will have "straight chain", or non-O-ring chain in various sizes and strengths. Usually sold by the foot or sometimes by the link. Take a sample with you for what size and strength you want.
Click to expand...
ahh sooo
 
I never heard of no farm equipment spinning 10,000rpm and if the cam chain breaks it's $25.00 a valve plus you could destroy the head I wonder why they make heavy duty cam chains this is not an area where one should cheep out I would replace it with a good one
 
My bike engine since I got it has never seen more than 6000 rpm. Ag equipment run heavy loads for long periods of time without lubrication on light chain and I have never broken a chain. I replace them because they are worn but never because of breakage. I also just don't fancy taking everything apart to put a linkless chain in when I can use a master link.
 
Clone, he was asking about a cam chain not a drive chain big differance and you can not just pull the cam chain through you would have to remove the cams so you could turn the crank without bending the valves
I was wondering how many miles do you get out a farm equipment chains and there cost is it that much of a savings and you never had your bike over 6000rpm under 6000rpm your bike produces less HP then a 1973 VW Beetle the 83 GS750ES dosen't even wake up until 8000rpm oh its not the master link you have to worry about I also have never seen one break it the tensil strength of the chain thats important and I have seen many cam chains break including my own. KZ don't be crazy replace the cam chain with a good heavy duty one while your in the bottom end you can check out all the other intenal parts after all it is a 78 1000
 
I've never seen a cam chain break, and I work on bikes for a living. Do drag racers have a lot of problems with that?
 
Don, yes you are correct they are race motors I'am refering to I have not seen a stock motor break a cam chain without something else causing it to break. But a stock cam chain cost more than a good heavy duty one so why no put the good one in and save money
 
stetracer said:
Clone, he was asking about a cam chain not a drive chain big differance and you can not just pull the cam chain through you would have to remove the cams so you could turn the crank without bending the valves
I was wondering how many miles do you get out a farm equipment chains and there cost is it that much of a savings and you never had your bike over 6000rpm under 6000rpm your bike produces less HP then a 1973 VW Beetle the 83 GS750ES dosen't even wake up until 8000rpm oh its not the master link you have to worry about I also have never seen one break it the tensil strength of the chain thats important and I have seen many cam chains break including my own. KZ don't be crazy replace the cam chain with a good heavy duty one while your in the bottom end you can check out all the other intenal parts after all it is a 78 1000
Click to expand...
My mechanic says he changes timing chains without taking the engine apart
 
You can get various tensil strengths of chain and price reflects the strenght, it usually has two numbers on it, one is I think shock strength and the other is load, I have been using #50-3500lbs-5000lbs as my drive chain for the last 5000kms or so. I lube it after a highway run, as it is not o-ring, and then leave it for about two tanks of gas then lube it again. So far I have only taken out a little stretch with the adjusters. Oring chain from the dealer is $140, the straight #50 -35-50 is $35 for 75links, I forget how many feet that is. So I think it is a worthwhile replacement. OOOOOHHHH NNNOOO, 8O I will still have to take out the cams to put in a cam chain? #@*# Use your favorite expletive.
 
My mechanic says he changes timing chains without taking the engine apart
Click to expand...
Slopoke, query him how he gets a solid loop around the crank and the cams?
I just don't see how it is possible without pulling the end caps and engine covers.
 
You should be able to press out the pin on any given link. It has been recommended to me in the past to grind off the head of the selected link and just push the pin through. I would NEVER use an abrasive grinding wheel in or over or near an open engine though.

I have in the past used a chain link remover for a push bike, it needed a little modifying to accept the link, and the pin (part of the link remover) that does the pushing needed grinding down a bit. It got me out of trouble.
Surely someone knows of a better way though.
 
Clone said:
My mechanic says he changes timing chains without taking the engine apart
Click to expand...
Slopoke, query him how he gets a solid loop around the crank and the cams?
I just don't see how it is possible without pulling the end caps and engine covers.
Click to expand...
Perhaps you took my statement just a bit to litteraly--I should have said without pulling the jugs and splitting the cases.
 
Clone, How long will that chain last at 3500lbs of tensil strenght that should be good for a 250 not a 750 a $140.oo O-ring chain will give you about 11,000 lbs of tensil strenght and last well over 20,ooo miles. If you put one on your bike it would last you the rest of your life never going over 6000rpm I have had the same chain on my bike for almost 8 years granted I don't ride on the street as much as most but it has seen over a thousand 1/4 mile passes. one of these days you might decide to get on your bike a little bit and if it breaks it could go through your cases.
If your dead set on using farm equitment on your bike use a stronger chain for the bike sake
 
stetracer said:
Clone, How long will that chain last at 3500lbs of tensil strenght that should be good for a 250 not a 750 a $140.oo O-ring chain will give you about 11,000 lbs of tensil strenght and last well over 20,ooo miles. If you put one on your bike it would last you the rest of your life never going over 6000rpm I have had the same chain on my bike for almost 8 years granted I don't ride on the street as much as most but it has seen over a thousand 1/4 mile passes. one of these days you might decide to get on your bike a little bit and if it breaks it could go through your cases.
If your dead set on using farm equitment on your bike use a stronger chain for the bike sake
Click to expand...
I have meant to ask what part of south west fla do you live in. I also fooled with hand puppets for a while an did a bit of ventrilloquism
 
Well, I don't know how a #50 chain could be rated at 11,000 lbs, 5000 is the strongest ag chain in this size. I have equipment that uses #70 which is rated 10,000 and it is a bear of a chain. It could be just like tractors rated at 130HP are really different from a bike rated at 130HP a bike chain rated at 11000 could be comparable to a 5000 ag chain. I don't know for sure. But I am like grandma, I just tool around on my bike, I will probably put an Oring chain on if I am going on a long tour just to save the hassle of lubing. But for me around town and the occasional short highway trip this chain is fine.
 
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