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Timing on a points ignition?

  • Thread starter Thread starter pasteurized
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pasteurized

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Today I began following a "tutorial" found on the forums on how to set the timing by turning the crank so the F1| lined up with the timing mark and using a continuituy light. First of all, there is no simple "F1|", it looks more like
| F 1-4 |

Not sure which of the marks it should line up with. Second of all, my continuity light never even lights up when anywhere near where I think it should. For example, for the left points the first time the continuity light turns on is well after | F 1-4 | is out of the sight window. I think the timing is off but that would mean it's way off, right? The right points do the same thing, the continuity light turns on well after I pass | F 2-3 |. What gives?

Here's a pic of the whole setup to give a better idea (large picture): http://www.beat-la.net/bike/points.jpg .
 
The long line is the basic timing at idle the short line is max advance
for cyl 1&4. If you have problems see if you can borrow a timing light
might even get one from Auto Zone tool loan program
 
Re: Timing on a points ignition?

Most likely, its a combination of setting your points gap either too wide or too close and doing that setting without first centering your breaker plate bolt at the 12 oclock position in the timing range slot in the breaker plate.

Loosen the three hold down screws on the breaker plate. Rotate it until the 12 oclock bolt is center in the adjustment slot. Snug the three bolts down lightly. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise with a 19 mm wrench until the 1,4 pointset is at its wides gap. Reset that gap to 14 thousandths.
Do the same thing with the 2,3 pointset. i.e rotate crank until widest gap is noted then reset the gap to 14 thou.

For the left pointset and the 1,4 cylinders, you want the the | preceeding the F . That is the non advanced mark The mark in your notation that follows the 4 is the 32 deg advance mark. You would only use this mark if you are using a stroboscopic timing light and setting advance timing above 3800 rpm.

Note that for the 2,3 pointset, you can not rotate the breaker plate. The pointset must be moved on its sliding half breaker plate

Earl


pasteurized said:
Today I began following a "tutorial" found on the forums on how to set the timing by turning the crank so the F1| lined up with the timing mark and using a continuituy light. First of all, there is no simple "F1|", it looks more like
| F 1-4 |

Not sure which of the marks it should line up with. Second of all, my continuity light never even lights up when anywhere near where I think it should. For example, for the left points the first time the continuity light turns on is well after | F 1-4 | is out of the sight window. I think the timing is off but that would mean it's way off, right? The right points do the same thing, the continuity light turns on well after I pass | F 2-3 |. What gives?

Here's a pic of the whole setup to give a better idea (large picture): http://www.beat-la.net/bike/points.jpg .
Click to expand...
 
Thanks earlfor. I have never checked nor set the timing or gaps of the points so I will go ahead and get some feeler gauges and give it a go tomorrow. The current settings are ridiculously retarded so I am sure that it will make a huge difference as to why the bike isn't running very well even after new exhaust, jetting as recommended by vance and hines, and a complete carb clean and rebuild.

I'll post the results tomorrow.
 
the end is so close.... but where o where?

the end is so close.... but where o where?

the end is in sight, gentlemen (and ladies, of course). 1981 GS550L.... cannot.... find.... ignition.... timing..... mark....

i've scoured the crankcase... cant see anything through the little apeture hole, and even if i take the rotor plate off, i cant see anything. no marks, scratches dents or dings that look factory made. not even so much as a dirty spot.
what gives?

changed from factory to dyna s after being stranded.... twice....
 
Get a timing light! I adjusted the points on my 550 for a year with a test light - and yes it is a very good way to get the timing close and if your good dead on. However, with my lack of experience of adjusting points using a timing light i was able to tweak the timing plates and gave me a little peace of mind that I was going in the right direction :-D. I also have never been able to find which way you rotate the point set to get the light to flicker on or off. The timing light resolved all of this and was a much faster method.
 
ive got a light

ive got a light

I've got a light, i just dont have a way to know when the light is supposed to be on-- no mark on the engine case to tell me when the cylinders are up-- any other point of reference, or do i just wing it for three days and two batteries (assuming that everything else is in order to allow me to get it running)?
 
Dont slam me for asking you this but you are rotating the crank as you look through the hole for the timing marks to appear correct?
 
uudfourty said:
I've got a light, i just dont have a way to know when the light is supposed to be on-- no mark on the engine case to tell me when the cylinders are up-- any other point of reference, or do i just wing it for three days and two batteries (assuming that everything else is in order to allow me to get it running)?
Click to expand...

There is supposed to be a bracket thingy with a tab which you can see through the window that gives you a point of reference. This would be behind the points plate. I've heard it's not uncommon for these to be missing due to a PO discarding it. Heck, I almost didn't put mine back on after a Dyna S install before I knew what it was.
 
thanks guys

thanks guys

thanks guys, for all the input today. i dont have the internet at the house, so i'll be reporting my findings tomorrow.
i read a thread previously about the little bracket and looked at mine last night-- didnt see anything, but then again maybe i wasnt looking hard enough.
yea, i'm turning the crank and looking through the peephole-- i can see the marks on the advancer plain as day, but i have no point of reference on the engine itself.
oh well-- we'll see what happens.
thanks again.
 
uudfourty said:
the end is in sight, gentlemen (and ladies, of course). 1981 GS550L.... cannot.... find.... ignition.... timing..... mark....

i've scoured the crankcase... cant see anything through the little apeture hole, and even if i take the rotor plate off, i cant see anything. no marks, scratches dents or dings that look factory made. not even so much as a dirty spot.
what gives?

changed from factory to dyna s after being stranded.... twice....
Click to expand...



you have electronic ignition, no timing, its preset
 
well..

well..

according to dyna it is-- otherwise they wouldnt've made the screw holes slotted, or so i would assume.

it started, ran like a badass for about ten minutes at which point all four of the plugs got coated in carbon and it started stuttering and backfiring, then it wouldn't idle-- just die. i know i posted in this points ignition thread to start with, and now it seems as if we're going down a rabbit trail here-- way off thread topic... but... since you guys seem to be so attentive....

clymer says the fouled plugs are ignition or too rich a mixture. will adjust one, then the other. a thread on here spoke of 3.5 turns back from lightly seated being factory. PO obviously adjusted them as not all of the screw head slots are in the same place. so i'm gonna set mixture screws back to factory and then play with the timing. i'll let you know the scoop its going to be rather difficult to get everything running well when i have to take the plugs out to clean them every five minutes-- WEAK.

there's a running joke around my apartment complex that i wont get this running back the way it was until after the first snow... such is my luck. it wont be the first time my kitchen was converted to a garage. mmmmm... macaroni and motor oil.
 
well since you bought a dyna ignition, theres is adjustable because it works on all different bikes. the original ignition has no marks because there is no adjustment. why not just put the old ignition back on?
 
seems i read somewhere that there is a small casting bump or something right near a screw or bolt on the left side under the plate, not much help but give you something else to look at/for gl
 
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