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Tips for reinstalling air box and Carbs???

  • Thread starter Thread starter swrupert83
  • Start date Start date
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swrupert83

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anybody have any tips for reinstalling the air box (easy part), the part that connect it to the carbs and then the carbs into the engine?

coming out was a little tricky (over 2 weeks ago memory a little week), but putting it all back together is darn frustrating...... specifically the screws that hold the filter box to the plastic peice that mounts to the carbs..... (think tiny space 3/4 the size of my hand) :-({|=
 
After buying new airbox rubbers (the boots that connect from carbs to airbox) my new tip is: buy new rubbers. With the new rubbers the carbs literally slid into place with ZERO forcing. After that just tighten the clamps, put other side of carbs into intake (head) boots, tighten those clamps, then re-attach airbox to frame (leave airbox loose for carb attachment process). Of course you want to attach choke and throttle cables first.
 
Each bike is going to be just a little different, but pliable rubber on both sides of the carbs is a definite plus.

In most of the bike on which I have had the "pleasure" to pull the carbs, I have found it easier to put the carbs into the intake tubes first, then slide the airbox into place.


.
 
I agree with Steve

I agree with Steve

I did get a tip from a mech that heating them in water will help too.
It makes them more pliable and slippery. They need to go on and be tight. Airbox leakage is a real problem with inline 4's. If air gets by the bike wont run good.
So the only tip I can offer is what Steve said and the heating in water thing.
Hope this helps.
 
WD-40 on the boots to and from the carbs

WD-40 on the boots to and from the carbs

8 days ago I finally re-installed my carbs and I employed the tips mentioned here so far, plus, someone had mentioned using WD-40 to slick the boots. I was lucky as the original boots were still in great shape and very pliable. Took me about 5 minutes total and most of that was because I had to pull them back out because I forgot to connect the throttle cable BEFORE inserting the carbs into the boots.
 
All of the tips recommended are valid and softening the plastic along with lube would be best I think.

My bike had sat for 7 years so the rubber was quite stiff. I had to pull the carbs about 4 times to get them as clean as necessary to run right. Each time I lubed the manifolds and airbox rubbers with WD-40. The more you work with them the easier it gets.

At first I did have difficulty getting the carbs back on as there is little to no manoevering room. Once I got the engine side lined up, I had to get another set of hands on one side to push in with me.

The second time I didn't have a helper available so I got some of my "speed" clamps ( bar clamps with a sliding hand grip that ratchets to tighten). Pushed one side into the manifold and tightened the clamp. Walked around to the other side, lined it up on the manifold and attached one end of the clamp to the far side of the head and the other to the back of the carb and ratchetted the carb into the manifold. Slick as butter.\\:D/

I did it twice more that way.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
Best advise is to warm up the air box rubber in hot water so that they are pilable. Then fit the carbs to the airbox first. Have you checked to see if you can replace the rubbers or are they 'all in one' with the box?

Then with the engines front and lower mounts removed and the engine being held on a jack and pivoted on the rear mounting bolt allow the motor to move slightly forward so that you have enough room refit the airbox and carb assembly. Then, using the jack raise the engine back up and fit the front rubbers. Then rebolt the engine back in place.

Easy.

Suzuki mad.
 
Suzuki mad said:
Best advise is to warm up the air box rubber in hot water so that they are pilable. Then fit the carbs to the airbox first. Have you checked to see if you can replace the rubbers or are they 'all in one' with the box?

Then with the engines front and lower mounts removed and the engine being held on a jack and pivoted on the rear mounting bolt allow the motor to move slightly forward so that you have enough room refit the airbox and carb assembly. Then, using the jack raise the engine back up and fit the front rubbers. Then rebolt the engine back in place.

Easy.

Suzuki mad.
Click to expand...

Um...did you just recommend partial removal of the engine as part of cleaning the carbs...? :confused:
 
Uuhh?

Uuhh?

swrupert83 said:
anybody have any tips for reinstalling the air box (easy part), the part that connect it to the carbs and then the carbs into the engine?

Thats what I was replying to or did I miss read it?

Suzuki mad
Click to expand...
 
Suzuki mad said:
swrupert83 said:
anybody have any tips for reinstalling the air box (easy part), the part that connect it to the carbs and then the carbs into the engine?

Thats what I was replying to or did I miss read it?

Suzuki mad
Click to expand...

OK. Just checking. Maybe it's my lack of experience with working on engines but I would rather leave the engine in place and move everything else. I guess it also depends on the exact bike on which the task is being performed.
Click to expand...
 
Yep, your right there. It just a method that allows more space for carbs and airbox attached prior to being installed. I didn't say it was the best or easiest.

Suzuki manuals and best practice was with new rubbers on both airbox and engine sides which after 25 years of riding most of these won't be.

It's no critisium of your lack of experience....

Suzuki mad
 
Suzuki mad said:
Yep, your right there. It just a method that allows more space for carbs and airbox attached prior to being installed. I didn't say it was the best or easiest.

Suzuki manuals and best practice was with new rubbers on both airbox and engine sides which after 25 years of riding most of these won't be.

It's no critisium of your lack of experience....

Suzuki mad
Click to expand...

I'll move the engine when I have to. Until then, can you hand me that piano? ;)
 
swrupert83 said:
anybody have any tips for reinstalling the air box (easy part), the part that connect it to the carbs and then the carbs into the engine?

coming out was a little tricky (over 2 weeks ago memory a little week), but putting it all back together is darn frustrating...... specifically the screws that hold the filter box to the plastic peice that mounts to the carbs..... (think tiny space 3/4 the size of my hand) :-({|=
Click to expand...

To some extent, it would be helpful to know which model you're talking about!
 
Refit air box

Refit air box

Models are a big issue here. I'm refitting an air box to a 1985 GS550 ES. On first attempt, it seemed easiest to remove carbs after tank, cables, battery box, CD ignitor, etc. Fairing is long removed. But the clearance still seems impossible after carbs off. The only other choice seemed to be monoshock assembly which also protrudes into the space where the box fits. However, tilting the engine was not considered until I read the post here. Several mechanics were at a loss as to how to assemble this item, as it is a clunky plastic molding that barely fits into the allocated space in the frame under the tank. I have thought of more forceful choices, but the cost of damage is prohibitive. Any sound advice from successful experience would be very helpful here or anywhere when specific details are considered. I like GS models. I've got two of 'em somebody didn't want to keep, so fixing these orphans is a pleasure. They're a joy to ride.
 
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Just looked at the problem again. The center down tube is straddled by the intake boots, so the engine tipping is not involved. I'm musing over two other items for clearance, both related to the braking system, before resigning to disassemble the monoshock...
 
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I've been struggling with getting my air box on because the rubbers are screwed. I'm going to get some new ones eventually but I'd like to get this thing running NOW. I put the rubbers in the oven for a few minutes at the lowest temperature but it only made my oven smell bad. My wife is going to be ****ed when she gets home. Guess I can't blame that one on the cats.
 
i'm new to bikes but i've worked on my share of engines.

only heat rubber parts to get them to conform to a shape or for tight clearances, as for getting them to fit on to something, use motor oil for lube and work on, if the rubber bends too easily (i.e. collapses or buckles) put them in the fridge to make them more rigid, be wary of water, it makes anything rubber swell. hope this helps.
 
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