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To the Powdercoating Kings

  • Thread starter Thread starter oshanac
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oshanac

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To the Powdercoating Kings. hey guys, I just found out we have a Paint/PC oven at work (I work for SRT Supply, we sell body armor, guns, etc... to Police, Military, and Citizens) that was used for gun coatings a few years back. I checked it it, it's 230v and gets at least 425 degrees with it's variable switch. I'm stoked!

The question is, now that I can buy a powdergun and accessories, can I place my GS 750's cylinder head in there and not hurt anything? The only thing is I haven't taken off the head the valves-shim assembly (well, actually the shims are off). I'll soda blast the old paint off the painted surfaces only, blow it out, and make sure she's COMPLETELY cleaned, degreassed and what ever I have to do to prep it for powder. I've never taken the valves out on a head before, and don't have the proper tools. Would the 400 degree's hurt the valves, springs, retainers, etc if I leave them in? It seems the spring compressing tool is like $50. Seems like a lot for a tool I'm likely to use only one or twice. Please let me know if it's safe. Thank you GSr's:)
 
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Wish i could find a pc oven at work!

You CAN coat the head i think, but i very much doubt you should do it while the valves etc are all in place. Those stem seals have little o-rings in them that probably wouldn't like the heat at all! I don't know if you would need to clamp the head down to a heavy plate or something to prevent it from warping, maybe bring the temp up and down SLOWLY could prevent this?

Those "powdercoating kings" will be along soon enough to give it to you straight, i doubt those valves would be staying in though! You can make various tools from parts lying around the garage / shed. Some very simple valve removing tools have been conjured up over the years, i myself made one a couple of months back from a piece of steel pipe and G cramp. Got the idea from a video i watched on Basscliffs gem of a website i believe?
 
I would not powder coat the head or jugs, there is engine paints out there that are better for that. Being in the gun bussiness you should look around and see if you have any gun kote or can order it at a discount. In my opinion this would be the best product to use on a air cooled engine since it is designed to disapate heat and be extra durable. It also requires baking so you should still be able to do it in house. Gun kote now offers many differant color options too.
 
Thanks Yaddy for the responce. Could you post a pic of the tool if its not too much trouble? Since I'm doing a frame off (or should I say out) restore, I need to save money when I can on things like that.
 
First timer-Gunkote-that's an idea?:-k WE don't do any gun coating currently though. I wonder would it hold up to the high temps of an air-cooled Florida bike? I do have to coat a few pistols on mine anyways, it would be great if it could handle the heat.

The last guy who owned it painted it black, but did a crappy job. Would a real paint gun (and of course prep) make it nicer than a can? I guess I could buy the GC in the pints, but it maybe expensive. GREAT idea though!!!

Eastwood Co. makes some engine specific paint. Anyone use something like that with good results?
 
oshanac said:
First timer-Gunkote-that's an idea?:-k WE don't do any gun coating currently though. I wonder would it hold up to the high temps of an air-cooled Florida bike? I do have to coat a few pistols on mine anyways, it would be great if it could handle the heat.

The last guy who owned it painted it black, but did a crappy job. Would a real paint gun (and of course prep) make it nicer than a can? I guess I could buy the GC in the pints, but it maybe expensive. GREAT idea though!!!

Eastwood Co. makes some engine specific paint. Anyone use something like that with good results?
Click to expand...

Talk to the gun kote customer service, they are very helpful. yes it will hold up, Pops yoshimura used it on his race engines and those things got real hot.

https://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=20

I plan to use it on my hot rod motor here in arizona which is hotter then florida

Onlt draw back is you need to media blast the motor with aluminum oxide to give the cases some tooth. But talk to them they can tell you what your options are when it comes to prep.
 
Dang, not as expensive as I thought by the pint! Would you need just one for the motor? Yoshi used it? How long has it been around? I'm digging the website! Thank you!
 
I painted my cylinders and head with heat resistant paint, mixed up by a local supplier. It was put on using a "proper" gun as you say, not out of a can. I used the same stuff on my GS1000 about a year ago and it's still shiny as hell and no peel as yet......

Video of valve replacement, courtesy of Basscliff's website, video was made by Mr.Steve and is a perfect example of saving a shilling but getting the job done properly!
http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c...action=view&current=ValveSpringCompressor.flv

DSC01073.jpg


DSC01091.jpg
 
Thanks Yaddy. Did you clean your valves with the same Alum. media or is that too agressive?
 
Yaddy-that link ROCKS!!!! That is EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you so much bro! :D
 
Hi buddy,
that is a good video isn't it, helped me out when i did mine, probably helped many others out too!

I removed my valves and cleaned them up with a Dremel and small wire brush attachment, i used the same attachment to do the ports. I used a soft brush attachment for cleaning the dome area in the head, and a sanding block to level the mating surfaces. I borrowed a honing tool from a nearby engineering shop to rough up the liners a little.

The fins were cleaned using scotchbrite pads, emery cloth, wet n dry paper wrapped around a screwdriver, and copious amounts of elbow grease!
 
"The fins were cleaned using scotchbrite pads, emery cloth, wet n dry paper wrapped around a screwdriver, and copious amounts of elbow grease! " WOW, that's a lot of work. I'm buying a media blaster. I already have a huge compressor to use at work. I'm too old to work like that!:D
 
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