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Too much gas cause bogginga and overflow?

  • Thread starter Thread starter KitKat
  • Start date Start date
K

KitKat

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So i took off my petcock, and it was missing the spring that pushes the diaphram shut when there is no vaccuum.

The bike was bogging down at medium to high rpms in every gear, almost unridable. could excess gas cause bogging? i thought the floats would shut?

or do my floats need work too?

Also i am pretty sure that the petcock problem cause the overflow too. Can any1 back up this statement?

I ordered a brand new OEM petcock and its coming soon

Thanks
 
newGS300Lowner said:
So i took off my petcock, and it was missing the spring that pushes the diaphram shut when there is no vaccuum.

The bike was bogging down at medium to high rpms in every gear, almost unridable. could excess gas cause bogging? i thought the floats would shut?

or do my floats need work too?

Also i am pretty sure that the petcock problem cause the overflow too. Can any1 back up this statement?

I ordered a brand new OEM petcock and its coming soon

Thanks
Click to expand...

The petcock wouldn't cause any running problems. At best a bad petcock combined with leaking float needles will cause gas to overflow into the air box or engine--ending up in the oil if it goes this route.

Sorry to say your gonna have to dig in a bit further to fix your bog, no easy fix down this path :rolleyes:

Your on the right path by suspecting your carbs.
 
So do you recommend checking the jets, or will the floats just be satisfactory?

Thanks
 
but i thought the jets are in the carbs, so do you just basically mean check the float levels and such???

Im a beginner and don't know too much about anything

Thanks
 
Yes the jets are in the carbs. Did the bike sit for a while? Even over the winter can cause varnishing. Pulling the carbs off and cleaning them may be nessisary. When you change your petcock, check to see if there is a lot of rust or debris on the inlet filter. If there is, this may be the source of many of your problems. if you have minimal grit and grime, you may want to instal an inline fuel filter. Also, what condition is your air filter in? Also, you can check for air leaks as well, with the bike running at idle, spray some starting fluid, or carb cleaner(carefully and lightly) around the engine side of the carbs. And check out BassCliff's website.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ much to be learned here. It has made me a master!(laughs). But seriously, I have picked up so much on this site, and because there is so much on here , it make it hard to sift through it all.
 
Thank you so much.

My petcock was in decent shape, the filter was a deep yellow/orange color. There is not a lot of grit and grime so i will probably install an inline fuel filter.

As for the air filter. The PO had apparantly just cut up a piece of foam to the shape and stuck it in there. I have ordered the correct air filter along with a new OEM petcock and they should be coming soon.

Do you recommend i check the float levels? (because the bike leaked gas, and i thought the floats should shut, preventing excess gas from getting in the carbs, because the old petcock did not stop the fuel flow when the bike was not running.)

The bike runs perfectly in idle except that when i give it some throttle past a point, it won't increase rpm. Which it does in every gear also

Thanks
 
Many times when the petcock fails it dumps fuel down the vacuum line and into the engine. Regarding your carbs, it's always a good idea to go though them so you KNOW they are okay, instead of guessing.
 
ok thank you.

I plan on checking my float levels too.

I have looked at some threads here that say that when you set the float levels to factory specs, they might not always be right.

Some other threads here mention a clear tube test to determine the right float height or something along those lines.

Can anybody elaborate?

i have no idea what a clear tube test is or any other way to set the float height besides factory specs.

Also does any1 happen to have the factory spec for float levels on an 1982 GS300L or know where to find them? i dont have the owner's/service manual.

Thanks
 
Also do you guys recommend changing the oil again, even though i did it when i bought the bike and havn't even put on 10 miles since, because of the possibility of gas in the oil?

Thanks
 
newGS300Lowner said:
Some other threads here mention a clear tube test to determine the right float height or something along those lines.

Can anybody elaborate?
Click to expand...

When you adjust the FLOAT height (sometimes refered to as the DRY setting), what you are really doing is trying to get the proper level of fuel in the float bowls (without actually putting fuel in the carb). Setting the FLOAT height according to the spec s-h-o-u-l-d give the proper FUEL level in the float bowl for the carb to function properly.

The "clear tube test" is the way to actually measure the FUEL level in the float bowl with fuel flowing in the carb. It is sometimes refered to the WET setting.

When you measure the DRY setting you have the carb upside down and are measuring the distance the FLOAT is a-b-o-v-e the float bowl mating surface.

When you measure the WET setting you have the carb right side up with the fuel turned on and are measuring the distance the FUEL level is b-e-l-o-w the float bowl mating surface.

The FUEL level is important because it is the pressure of the atmosphere pressing on the fuel level that effects the various circuits in the carb. So you want all the carbs' fuel levels to be as close to correct and equal as you can get them.
 
newGS300Lowner said:
Also do you guys recommend changing the oil again, even though i did it when i bought the bike and havn't even put on 10 miles since, because of the possibility of gas in the oil?

Thanks
Click to expand...


if a lot of gas got in the oil you would have a high oil level is this the case?
if not then dont change the oil needlessly
if you have doubts at all as to the previous level of oil then change it
 
pdqford said:
The "clear tube test" is the way to actually measure the FUEL level in the float bowl with fuel flowing in the carb. It is sometimes refered to the WET setting.
Click to expand...
For NewGS's clarification, this 'clear tube test' is either drilling a hole in a screw you can put in the float bowl drain and putting a piece of tubing on it or getting the right fitting the accomplish the same task. When the bike is level, you hold the tube up next to the carburetor and you can see exactly how much fuel is in the float and measure it. It is kind of equivalent to bench syncing (dry float) vs. manometer syncing (wet float) your carbs.
 
ok, then i will just set the floats to the spec float heights, which i found in the sticky carb oem specs thread.

I will check the oil level, and if it is high, because i remember where it was when i first filled it up, i will change the oil

Is there any issues with having gas in the oil? Could it be possibly damagin? :eek:
 
Last edited:
Also, quick questions.

What instrument is best used for measuring the float height?


and, you measure the float height from the tip of the clip, to the bottom of the float bowl, with or without the gasket???

Thanks
 
newGS300Lowner said:
Also, quick questions.

What instrument is best used for measuring the float height?


and, you measure the float height from the tip of the clip, to the bottom of the float bowl, with or without the gasket???

Thanks
Click to expand...
I use a digital caliper/Gasket off/I measure from the gasket surface to the stepdown on the float from the hinge.
 
ok thank you

any1 know the answer to my previous previous post about the damages of too much gas?

Thanks
 
i dont have a compression tester, should i just change the oil just to be safe?? its really not that hard, and i can do it pretty quickly

Thanks
 
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