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Top End Rebuild... Can it be left in the frame?

T

TxGSrider

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Ok, I'm sure this has probably been asked and answered a bazillion times, but can the top end be rebuilt on my 82 gs1100e with the engine in the frame?
 
It can be done, but when you lift the cylinders up all of the sand and rust down in between the two inboard cylinders will fall down inside the crankcase. If I was pulling cylinders with the engine in the frame I would at least lay the bike on it's side while the cylinders are removed so the crap doesn't fall in.
 
I usually pressure wash the engine before top end removal whether it's on the bench or in the frame. Keeps all kinds of nasties out. I use compressed air to dry it afterwards.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
So clean the crap off Tom, before you lift out the cylinders. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...


After disassembling dozens of GS engines, I haven't figured out how to clean the sand from between the bolt holes down through the cylinder and the four center studs. A pressure washer doesn't get there. Compressed air doesn't get there. Fire hose doesn't get there. Turning the engine on it's nose while you pull the cylinder keeps the crap from falling in, I have been doing that for years. Putting the whole bike on it's side should do the same, or at least keep the junk from falling all the way down under the crankshaft.

If you have a tried and true technique for removing sand and road crap from the inaccessible space around those four center bolts, I'd like to hear it.
 
tkent02 said:
After disassembling dozens of GS engines, I haven't figured out how to clean the sand from between the bolt holes down through the cylinder and the four center studs. A pressure washer doesn't get there. Compressed air doesn't get there. Fire hose doesn't get there. Turning the engine on it's nose while you pull the cylinder keeps the crap from falling in, I have been doing that for years. Putting the whole bike on it's side should do the same, or at least keep the junk from falling all the way down under the crankshaft.

If you have a tried and true technique for removing sand and road crap from the inaccessible space around those four center bolts, I'd like to hear it.
Click to expand...

I understand the dirt problem... sounds like Murphy's Law at its best! You scrub it, spray it, blast it... and the dirt doesn't come off, but lift the cylinder a little bit and it all suddenly breaks loose and falls into the crankcase! lol!!
 
Vacuum cleaners are useful for cleaning the narrow passages. Especially if you get some small detailing attachments.
 
TxGSrider said:
I understand the dirt problem... sounds like Murphy's Law at its best! You scrub it, spray it, blast it... and the dirt doesn't come off, but lift the cylinder a little bit and it all suddenly breaks loose and falls into the crankcase! lol!!
Click to expand...

That's because the only place the dirt stays in down in those center four bolt holes.
 
MechMessiah said:
Vacuum cleaners are useful for cleaning the narrow passages. Especially if you get some small detailing attachments.
Click to expand...


Show me a vacuum attachment that will fit down inside a bolt hole four inches deep with a bolt blocking most of it and I'll..... still turn the motor on it's nose. That works and it's incredibly easy.
 
tkent02 said:
Show me a vacuum attachment that will fit down inside a bolt hole four inches deep with a bolt blocking most of it and I'll..... still turn the motor on it's nose. That works and it's incredibly easy.
Click to expand...

So do I just remove the rear bolt(s) and loosen the front and tilt it up?
 
tkent02 said:
... I'll..... still turn the motor on it's nose. That works and it's incredibly easy.
Click to expand...

I guess if the engine is still in the frame, you would suggest running a rope from the rafters to the rear wheel and lifting the whole bike? :-k

Yeah, it sounds good if the engine is out, but for those of us who have not bothered to remove it, ... :oops:

Not sure if I have just been lucky or ignorant, but I have never noticed anything falling in when removing the head/cylnders.
 
Like I said, lay the bike on it's side. Or don't, I really don't care how much crap gets inside your engine.
 
tkent02 said:
Show me a vacuum attachment that will fit down inside a bolt hole four inches deep with a bolt blocking most of it and I'll..... still turn the motor on it's nose. That works and it's incredibly easy.
Click to expand...

You don't need to go down through the bolt hole. Those holes are not enclosed tubes. You can get to the studs through the fins, and there are vacuum attachments that fit in between the fins.

1c8dQ5Y.jpg


This is a whole detailing kit but those micro attachments are pretty small, and you can usually find the micro attachments for sale on ebay or amazon.
metrovac-vac-n-blo.jpg
 
I agree with tkent02. Either remove the motor or lay it on it's side. Sure you can buy all type of gadgets to "try" to get all the sh*t out, but you will never get it all out and some of it will end up in your crank case! How hard can it be to lay it over?
 
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