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top end rebuild

tlg1100

Forum Mentor
going to rebuild top end do i need ring compresser or can i do it by hand? and cam timing, not stock cams and mark on end of cams is different setting than book . was going to try to put back together same way? dont want to degree cams just mark things put back same way. someone told me that it cant be done without degree wheel and all that process, I was hoping to mark everything cams, cam chainlinks and from tdc any advice?
 
You should be fine regarding the cams if you install them with the sprockets oriented the same was as the stock cams.

As for the rings, it can be done without a ring compressor but you need some extra hands and/or rig up something to hold the cylinder so it doesn't fall. Renobruce posted photos from when he installed the cylinder on his engine; he supported the cylinder from bungee cords so he could lower it in a controlled manor. Good idea that you could easily replicate.
 
cams

cams

when motor is at tdc my haynes book said notches are even with top surface of the head. my are not. vance@hines cams/ that is why i was not sure if i had to re- degree cams as i was told i would have to. or can i mark them, count links in cam chain and all that stuff and put back together. years ago i bent a valve, when i put it back together, i put cams in stock position, valves hit piston. i had a suzuki dealership fix it they told me that it had v@h cams and that they had to degree the cams took them for ever[four month] and they are the ones that told me everytime it was taken apart the cams would have to be degree,but i was thinking that if i was marking everthing, i could put it back same way. now i live 100 mile from any thing so would like to do it myself. thanks for your time and advice.
 
The key thing is the __ 1 mark on the cam sprocket, not the notches.
 
Normal degreeing requires that the cam sprocket bolt holes be elongated. so if you did not remove the sprockets you should be fine
 
TDC with #1 cylinder at the top of its stroke. Also make sure the crank trigger is pointing to the left at the 1&4 coil.
#1 on the ehaust cam is pointing at the front head surface. #2 should be pointing about straight up. Count 20 pins from #2 (include pins over arrows) to #3 on the intake sprocket.
 
Does anyone have the link about the bungee cord supporting the cylinder technique, Ted
 
Does anyone have the link about the bungee cord supporting the cylinder technique, Ted

100_4639.jpg
 
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