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Top End Tear Down

  • Thread starter Thread starter HaggisHombre
  • Start date Start date
Have you seperated the head from the cylinder block? Looks like they're still attached.

What do the cylinders look like inside?

What does the top of the cam lobe that has the score mark look like?
Can you feel the grove in the lobe with you finger nail?

What do the valves look like?

Do all the shim buckets turn freely? Some exhaust buckets seem to get tighter over the years and don't rotate as freely.

Pistons look normal to me but I'm sure others will chime in. The pistons could use a little decarbonizing. I would still consider new rings into the mix if you're going through all this trouble. Baring anything unusual on the cylinder jugs I'd just hone them for the new rings and be done. You may also want to run a staight edge along the head and deck at various angles to make sure everything is still flat. If not, it shouldn't cost much to have a machine shop clean them up.
 
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Yeh they are still attached ha ha, now that I think about it not sure why, is there dowels? I was exhausted and thought a rest was in order before continuing. I will go out later today and report on my findings.
 
There are two (I think) locating dowels on either side of the head and one hiden bolt at the front center (exhaust side) of the engine that connects the cylinder block to the head. That bolt can not be seen from the top of the engine.
 
Hi thank you, I did remove the two on the end and my engine is pre the third bolt. I have seen one engine that has the molding for the bolt but no hole, mine does not even have the molding for that third bolt. All good thoughts though. I am sure it is just the gasket, I will be going out there a bit later tonight to find out.
 
Use a flat putty knife and tap it in along the seam around the head and work it to get things cut free. Dont twtst or pry..just drive it in and repeat around the perimeter. thing is to not score the surfaces as you do it.
 
I just did this on my 850 and the new head gaskets from Suzuki should be all metal, and don't need the large o-ring around the cam chain opening. The metal gasket covers all that area. Found out the hard way when I tried to install the o-ring and it got squished out when trying to tighten head down. terrylee
 
Turns out it was a corroded dowel, at last I got it apart thank you for the suggestions. The head gasket on this bike was an aftermarket and it had no leaks. The base gasket however did leak, I do not know if that one is aftermarket. The cylinders look good, now I will measure them. The head defiantly needs a good clean lots of carbon.

IMG_1218_zps58892ff7.jpg

IMG_1216_zps273e15ae.jpg
 
Those 3 exhaust valves look like they have gotten pretty hot. Best to check all the valves and seats as well since they are right there for the doing. Recut the seats and have the valves refaced.

Check with the local shops and take the head with you to show them what you are up against. Or if your familiar with doing the work yourself....
 
Hi chuck it does look that way. I will have to figure out how to get the valves out our go buy a tool for the job. After inspection if I find all is well I will re-seat the valves, it has been over 30 years since I have done that however I believe it is relatively easy.
 
You can remove the valves pretty easily following this sequence shared by Squaredance Lynn:

Stuff rag into combustion chamber and flip over head on sturdy workbench.

Remove valve bucket and place sturdy socket over top valve.

Wack socket with a hammer (dead blow hammer is best) - good solid blast.

Socket will compress the spring retainer and the locks will jump out.

Always keep the valve in it's original hole so number them in advance of removal.
 
Alternatively buy a valve spring compressor. They're not expensive, and unless there is another trick with a hammer :eek:, you'll need one to get the valves back in.

Expect to pay around $50, or make your own by making an adapter for a suitably sized G clamp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaY2coZLDSM
 
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A large C clamp and a piece of PVC pipe with a window cut in it to get the keeper out works just fine. Much easier to take them out with a socket and a hammer.
 
I've always cringed when someone suggests to simply smack the heck out of the valve to get the keepers to jump out. What is this, a Whac-A-Mole game? I've seen people really mess up a keeper or valve groove doing just that. On top of that there's no way to get the keeper back in without a tool, so you'll end up having to get a tool for that anyway. I’d just get (or make) the right tool for the job. An 8" C-clamp and PVC will work out just fine. Personally I've made one out of a C-clamp and a cut out thin walled socket for durability. Works on my GS and Nissan Z engines.
 
JTGS850GL said:
I've always cringed when someone suggests to simply smack the heck out of the valve to get the keepers to jump out. What is this, a Whac-A-Mole game? I've seen people really mess up a keeper or valve groove doing just that. On top of that there's no way to get the keeper back in without a tool, so you'll end up having to get a tool for that anyway. I?d just get (or make) the right tool for the job. An 8" C-clamp and PVC will work out just fine. Personally I've made one out of a C-clamp and a cut out thin walled socket for durability. Works on my GS and Nissan Z engines.
Click to expand...

+10 In total and utter agreement. The quick way, I have often found, is not necessarily the BEST way
 
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