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Torque spec for 81 GS1100E?

  • Thread starter Thread starter corpse26
  • Start date Start date
Ian, this is a sixteen valve. The valve clearance is .003-.005 inches. ;)
On the non-starting issue. Is there compression? Is the cam timing out? Is the crank trigger on 180 off? Is there spark? Fuel?
 
chef1366 said:
Ian, this is a sixteen valve. The valve clearance is .003-.005 inches. ;)
On the non-starting issue. Is there compression? Is the cam timing out? Is the crank trigger on 180 off? Is there spark? Fuel?
Click to expand...

Quite right Bill. I realised that it was a 16 valve motor. Suzuki recommend .08 -.13mm (cold). which is .003" -.005". I put a zero incorrectly after the decimal point for the upper measurement in my reply. Great to see you're still paying attention!!:p
 
I should've known that you were using the pathetic system.
:D

Really though I don't quite know why the US hasn't switched. So much easier in tenths. Easier to learn also. We tried to switch when I was in school. I wonder what ever happened to that?:confused:
 
Yes, it is the pathetically easy system.
Tens, hundreds, thousands (oops, thous are a confusing point) are much easier to calculate. It used to be a PITA having to convert fractions to metric from drawings, not long after the change to the decimal system here in 1967. Quite easy now with calculators readily at hand on your mobile.
 
Very rare to have a block warped. Same with heads. Most of the time we have to surface a head it is to raise CR or remove a flaw.

Something to think about when surfacing overhead cam heads; These heads have the cam bores line bored parallel with the head surface. If for some reason the head bows from end to end, the cam bores are also bowed.

If the head is reinstalled with big studs and pulled down flat, the cam bores straighten out.

If you take a bowed head and mill the surface flat, the cam bores are now permanently bowed.

Jay
 
Very good point about the alignment of the cam bores. The other thing that happens when you just mill a bowed head flat is the inner chambers end up with greater chamber volume than the outer ones. Best method is to carefully bump straighten the head and then mill out any slight irregularities. Your cam bores will then be closer to their correct alignment too.
 
On rare occasions, we have put the head in a press and took the bow out of it..
 
Well, I was able to get the bike started up fine using starting fluid but have been unable to get the bike to run on it's own off the carbs. I stripped the carbs down yesterday to find that the old rubber plugs in the low speed jet tube had pretty much dissolved and clogged both the low speed jet and the main jet. New plugs are on their way. I'm also going to empty out all of the high test gas and put in low test since these coils spark but it doesn't seem to be the brightest spark out there. At least not as bright as the coils on my CBR F2. Which I have an extra set of and was thinking about mocking up on this old GS.:D
 
Make sure you clean the ports from the pilot air and main air jets to the pilot jet and main jet. Blow them out with carb cleaner and air.
 
chef1366 said:
Make sure you clean the ports from the pilot air and main air jets to the pilot jet and main jet. Blow them out with carb cleaner and air.
Click to expand...


Any suggestions on were to start out on jetting? It has Emgo pod filters and a slingshot VH exhaust. It was never rejetted when the bike had pod filters and the exhaust put on...thus...why so much stuff was warped and had to be milled.

It had 107' jets in it with the stock carbs. I picked up some 145's...i figure it's best to error on the rich side at first. Anybody have a similar set up with stock carbs and an 1168 kit in it?
 
The 145s are too big.
Start with a 135 main but this may be a bit fat so I'd buy four each of 132.5 and 130. I ran a 138 Dynojet main with the setup you have (K&Ns not Emgos) This is equal to a 130 mikuni main jet.
47.5 pilot jet
Three turns out on the idle mixture screw.
Get a Dynojet kit if you don't have one already. If not you'll need to shim the needle. Stack washers over the clip on the needle until you reach the same heighth as with the plastic spacer. I'd start by removing four washers. This will raise the needle about two notches.
If you do have a dynojet needle put it on the fourth down notch.
 
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