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Totally Dead electrically

  • Thread starter Thread starter bikechump
  • Start date Start date
B

bikechump

Guest
This is my third post concerning my problem, a completely dead electrical system. I've started with the basics, verifying a proper ground for battery (.4 ohm) so fine. voltage reads 12.6 when i ground the battery to the engine. I checked the continuity from the wire leading from the fuse to the ignition ( 0.4) so theres no breaks there. fuse and holder are fine, reading .3 ohms.


When i check the voltage from the battery to the hot "red" lead i get nothing.
I then tired disconnecting and grounding the "red" lead that split off leading to the Rectifier/regulator, i checked the voltage and get the proper reading of 12.6

My question is the R/R supposed to be the ground for the circuit?

If not then where does it ground? the ignition switch?

When inspecting the hot "red" lead leading to the r/r i noticed a slightly burnt connection, could it be possible that i have fried the r/r? and if so does it even impact the ignition system and be causing my problem? ( i know its used for recharging)

Im quite new to the electrical side of things so if what ive written doesn't make sense let me know and i'll try to clarify things. any advice at all would be helpful because i've done all i know. thanks. vince.
 
bikechump said:
voltage reads 12.6 when i ground the battery to the engine. I checked the continuity from the wire leading from the fuse to the ignition ( 0.4) so theres no breaks there. fuse and holder are fine, reading .3 ohms.
vince.
Click to expand...

So You have electricity going from battery to ignision switch? But did You measure what is coming out of the switch, in different positions of ignition key?
I would suspect You have a blown ignition swicth which doesn't make proper connections when the key is turned to "On"
 
Vince, if you'll keep using the same thread instead of starting another thread it will be easier to follow your line of questions.

We need to locate a wiring diagram for your bike. It sounds like an open connection (fuse blown, wire broke, bad switch, etc) so we need to trace from the battery to the lights and find out where the voltage potential stops. Do you have a wiring diagram available?

Hap
 
The disconnected R/R should affect nothing in the ignition circuit.
You have power going in to the ignition switch, but is any coming out? - This is the essential question!
Yeah, eliminate the ignition switch from the circuit temporarily to rule it out. If your lights come on, then you've found the culprit.
 
Hi, sorry about all of the new posts, i just figured no one would look at my old posts after they sat for a while.

When looking at my diagram it gave me a small box which included the 4 wires leading to my ignition switch and the positions (on, off, P) which told me what wires were used in what circuit. I measured to corresponding wires to one another and resistance was within spec(.4ohms). If u dont understand thats ok because its much more clear once you see the wiring diagram.

I do have a wiring diagram, but a scanner is a different story. I will have to search around, perhaps the library. I would like to add one note ive been excluding, when i purchased the bike there was no key given so i took my helmet lock in and had a locksmith cut my ignition to fit, is there a possibility it could have loosened a connection? I will hopefully be back promptly with a diagram.

and thanks again for your help, it gives me a lot more confidence to meeting my deadline.

vince.
 
Forget about resistance measurements for now, 12.6 ok battery voltage good & good ground, check for 12v on the orange?? wire on the fuse block (main fuse) No voltage check the ign switch-- wiring between the fuse block & switch from switch to battery
 
bikechump said:
Hi, sorry about all of the new posts, i just figured no one would look at my old posts after they sat for a while.
Click to expand...

Just "bump" your thread if it falls off. In other words, just post to your original thread to keep it active.

Brad bt
 
Dude, I know you're a neophyte and I understand that (I was one once too), but you're still not answering the essential question: Is there any VOLTAGE coming OUT of the ignition switch? That wire will power the nuetral/oil lights regardless of whether or not the starter button is good.
Resistance measurements just tell you about continuity. I can have continuity in a given length of wire, but if there's no current flowing through that wire then there's no power. Current requires a CLOSED circuit.
I strongly suspect that your testing methods (use of multimeter) are flawed, otherwise it would be obvious to you whether or not you have voltage at various key points in the system: Battery, right before fuse, right after fuse, right before ignition switch, right after ignition switch, and points flowing from ignition switch to the various lights.
Also, are your bulbs blown? - It does happen, you know.
 
Last edited:
resolved

resolved

I traced the problem to the plug in connector from the battery to the ignition. it works if i press the connection together then shuts off when i release. ive used contact cleaner with no results. should u just zip tie them together tight? (i know its jimmy) :?

P.S. Of course my testing methods are flawed, if they weren't i wouldn't need you guys. i would like to thank everyone who spared some of their time to help me out, im sure it won't be the last time.

vince
 
zip ties maybe

zip ties maybe

Glad to hear you isolated the problem. Zip tying will work for a while, but it tends to come loose just when you're on a carefree ride somewhere. End of ride! Best used only for getting home.

Used electrical harnesses do come on eBay from time to time, but you might get something just as bad as you have.

Check out the car stereo hookup supplies at your local auto parts store for replacement connectors you could splice in. Lots of multi connectors to choose from there, not much $$ cost.
 
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