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Transmission grinds into 1st gear and into 2nd

  • Thread starter Thread starter Snapped01
  • Start date Start date
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Snapped01

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I own a 82 GS850. I put in a new clutch cable, and for a few weeks now these are the symptoms I've been having.

I turn the bike on in Neutral, and when i shift into 1st, it grinds for a second then goes in... :| not a pleasant sound.

Sometimes when i switch from 1st - 2nd, it will end up in Neutral and grind into second, but only sometimes.

All the other gears go in find and are smooth.

What is wrong? do i need to adjust my clutch cable or what?
 
I would say the cable needs just a tad more tightening so the pressure plate fully releases when you squeeze the clutch. When the lever is relesaed ( your not squeezing it ) how much play is there between the lever at the hinge and the perch edge where they both mate up? Should be able to wiggle the lever a little..like maybe 3/16 inch or so and then start feeling pressure from the cable actuating the clutch.

One thing to do is to drop it into first and shut off the engine. Pull in the clutch lever and hit the start button. If its grabbing as your trying to start it then youll know the clutch is out of adjustment and needs some tuning.
 
The clutch is fully engaging because when i start the bike in first gear it does not jump or anything. I just went out there to adjust the clutch and there is a good amount of play in the clutch.
 
Has been a while since ive seen an 850 tranny case top, so refresh my memory here. Is the top threaded holder the cable screws into to the rear or front of the linkage? In other words, to hook the cable to the linkage does the hole for the pin on the linkage face to the rear of the bike like the 1000s do?

In any case, point is to remove the linkage and be sure the shaft is rotated all the way till it is tight against the release bearing in there. Then the linkage goes on and should be parallel to the clutch cover..basically facing straight back. Then the cable atattches. May have to adjust the cable on top of the tranny so you can get the pin in. Then you check the levers play and make the bigger adjustments down below and use the adjuster at the perch for the fine tuning.

Point being you have to be sure that when you squeeze the lever the clutch pressure plate is fully disengaging. This why i asked if there was any slightest hint that the clutch was trying to grab it when in gear with the lever pulled and you hitting the button. If it even slightly feels like the bike wants to move then the cable still isnt fully disengaging the clutch and it needs more adjustment.
 
Adjust the clutch according to the manual, starting with the lever at the clutch cover. Your clutch isn't fully releasing (disengaging) when you pull the lever. There shouldn't be "a good amount of play".
 
As Ray said...just a little gap at the lever and perch where the edges mesh together. No more than 3/16 or less. Needs just a little slop so that when you release the lever the cable fully extends and doesnt make the pressure plate slip below and smoke the clutch.
 
So i managed to fix the clutch cable so that there is some play in the clutch, however, it still grinds into first.

When i start the bike in 1st, then take it out to Neutral, and put it back in, it dosent grind.

When i start the bike in neutral, then it will grind into first gear every time.
 
What is your idle RPM? What is the history of this bike? Are you pushing the shifter gently into gear or giving it a light but quick tap? The five pairs of gears are always meshed, as it is a constant mesh tranmission. The grinding you hear is not the gear teeth grinding like a car with it's synchromesh transmission, but the shift dogs on the sides of each gear. Grinding them is a bad thing, it will eventually lead to popping out of gear under load.
 
My idle rpm is from 1000-2000rpm. If i try and give it a light quick tap, it won't go in. I have to push down real hard for it get past the grind and into gear.
 
RPMs should be steady at around 1200. Too fast and youll grind the gears and it will make a real loud clunk when it does hit
 
chuck hahn said:
Has been a while since ive seen an 850 tranny case top, so refresh my memory here. Is the top threaded holder the cable screws into to the rear or front of the linkage? In other words, to hook the cable to the linkage does the hole for the pin on the linkage face to the rear of the bike like the 1000s do?

In any case, point is to remove the linkage and be sure the shaft is rotated all the way till it is tight against the release bearing in there. Then the linkage goes on and should be parallel to the clutch cover..basically facing straight back. Then the cable atattches. May have to adjust the cable on top of the tranny so you can get the pin in. Then you check the levers play and make the bigger adjustments down below and use the adjuster at the perch for the fine tuning.

Point being you have to be sure that when you squeeze the lever the clutch pressure plate is fully disengaging. This why i asked if there was any slightest hint that the clutch was trying to grab it when in gear with the lever pulled and you hitting the button. If it even slightly feels like the bike wants to move then the cable still isnt fully disengaging the clutch and it needs more adjustment.
Click to expand...

Hey so i put my bike into first gear today and started it and i could feel like the bike was trying to move forward and it kinda felt like it was lugging the engine. How do i fix this? thanks in advance!
 
Adjust the cable again...you didnt do it enough yet. If you did it before and it went away..but is back again..your cable is about to snap. Its stretched to the limits and is about to go.
 
old clutch cable no grind
new clutch cable grind
Get the right clutch cable.
 
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