Triumph wiring harness shorty for reg/rec

[Grimly]

The Triumph part number T2500676, the plug'nplay harness from the Shindengen SH and FH plug-bodied RRs arrived today.
It's well made, arrived almost before it had been sent and is cheap - a tenner or so. Also, the Triumph end connectors were filled with silicone grease, but I won't be needing them.
One of these...

Lovely jubbly. Now only awaiting on the SH-775, which is stuck in Dublin, having come from Ohio in three days, it's languishing in a warehouse until Monday.
Hoho, there will be trouble if FedEx try to charge me duty on this.

 

[Grimly]

Thought I'd just carry on with this thread instead of peppering the forum with truncated utterings.
The used Shindengen SH-775 arrived via FedEx today - it's physically slightly smaller than I expected, so will have no problem mounting it in front of the battery box, I think.
I have no airbox/filter housing to worry about there.

 

[rustybronco]

Which bike are you stuffing it into? The 850GT's mounted them under the battery box.

 

[gs1100ez]

i got my wiring plug delivered on sat
still waiting for the new regulator, should be here anyday now hopefully

 

[Grimly]

Which bike are you stuffing it into? The 850GT's mounted them under the battery box.

The original location got covered in road muck, so I've had the Honda RRs mounted on the rear fender under the seat, but this is just large enough to rule that out. If I still had the original carbs and air filter, I'd probably put it on the inside of a side cover (depending on heat and ventilation of course), but the front of the battery box is unoccupied now, with a wide clear space between that and the S.U. filter, with plenty of air movement.

i got my wiring plug delivered on sat
still waiting for the new regulator, should be here anyday now hopefully

Excellent. There's going to be a rush of people fitting these, shortly. I'll get mine sorted out this week.

 

[Grimly]

Got it fitted, and used the original Suzuki red line which tees to the fusebox 15A charging fuse (thoroughly checking and cleaning all connectors) which is still in good condition externally and internally (no overheated or corroded wire core, as is common on many Japanese cars of that era - the quality of copper on the Suzuki looms was always better than Nissan, for example).
On my Triumph adapter harness, the ground wire split in two, so I grounded one at the frame and took the other to the common ground up by the battery.
Getting a steady battery charge voltage of 14.45V above idle with no lights and 14.29V with all lights on.
I'll bung up a pic of the installation later on.

 

[Grimly]

Some pics

Some pics

I swear, the engine is running smoother with the higher system voltage, which points me to a possible LT connection glitch somewhere. I'll clean some pickup/ignitor connections tomorrow, as some preventative maintenance.

 

[posplayr]

You are trying to ruin that R/R. It needs to be mounted in rubber.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

Why rubber my OEM unit was hard bolted to the frame?
Oh wait never mind yet another charging system weakness.

 

[Grimly]

You are trying to ruin that R/R. It needs to be mounted in rubber.

I have a box of eggs - do you want to teach me how to suck them?

 

[Guest]

Yes...you definitely need to isolate the r/r with rubber mounts.

 

[Grimly]

Yes...you definitely need to isolate the r/r with rubber mounts.

Don't you start, too.
Rubber mounting was always in the plan - just finagling a reliable / simple method is the trick. The unit just got bolted to the cross-strap for wiring installation and got taken out for a ride down the village just to see how it behaved.
Then agin, perhaps I'll ignore the 40-odd years I spent fixing and designing electrical machines and just wing it.

 

[Nessism]

Suzuki didn't rubber mount the stock R/R. Nor did Kawasaki on my KZ750. It won't hurt to do so mind you, just not sure it's necessary.

 

[Guest]

Suzuki didn't rubber mount the stock R/R. Nor did Kawasaki on my KZ750. It won't hurt to do so mind you, just not sure it's necessary.

The electrical mounting plate on my '79 had rubber isolation grommets, so I guess Suzuki did isolate them, if indirectly. That's what causes the solenoid to stop working if the ground is lifted from the plate. I'm guessing this was vibration damping.

 

[Guest]

Don't you start, too.
Rubber mounting was always in the plan - just finagling a reliable / simple method is the trick. The unit just got bolted to the cross-strap for wiring installation and got taken out for a ride down the village just to see how it behaved.
Then agin, perhaps I'll ignore the 40-odd years I spent fixing and designing electrical machines and just wing it.

Haha! OK, you have changed my mind. Wing it!

While my homemade bracket for mounting the 775 under the fuel tank mount works well, I decided to use the back side of the mounting plate and mount it upside down. I am using a couple of the protective boots from the old harness to cover the connections and protect them from the elements.

I showed my idea for the under-the-tank mount to a buddy and his first question was: "You are going to isolate that bracket with some sort of rubber mounts, right?" haha.

 

[Grimly]

Well, I waved an IR thermometer at the thing today and found the following, after it had been on a run out with all lights on and it had cooled for a couple of minutes while I went to find the thermometer:

Ambient 21degC
Lower barrel temp 111decC
Heatsink 35degC

Starting up and driving into the workshop, with lights on, the following temps were seen immediately after.
Barrel base 117degC
Heatsink 40degC

This tallies with my back of the hand checks when out - I stopped a couple of times to finger-test temps and found it was barely warm with no lights and just about blood heat with lights on.
Seems to be ok.

 

[posplayr]

I have a box of eggs - do you want to teach me how to suck them?

Just catching up with your thread. It is amusing. Re: your invite , you seem to be sucking much better than I could possibly. I can tell you are much more of an expert at It than you let on.