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Trouble with oil and fuel 1978 gs750

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mocks
  • Start date Start date
Mocks, step away from your motorcycle.

Go back to post #3 and check out all the links BassCliff has provided. You must do the donkey work and read up on your machine before you can expect to get it running right. Yeah, it's a pain but it has to be done. You won't regret it.:lol:
 
And on top of this I don't think my needles seat due to the fact that fuel dumps outta the bowl drains. Could a needle being set too far low/high keep it from seating properly? They look good, but I'm not for sure where the PO set them(if he even did). I know my petcock works, so its not that.
 
If the floats are really low, you might flood out the tubes. More likely, your needle valves are sticking or the floats are snagging on something like the bowl gasket.
 
Floats are free, but I'm not sure if the needles are sticking or not. Are the complete carb kits on eBay worth it or are they junk?
 
Mocks said:
Floats are free, but I'm not sure if the needles are sticking or not. Are the complete carb kits on eBay worth it or are they junk?
Click to expand...

Dip your carbs and all the brass bits in Berrymans for 24 hours, buy an o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and a gasket set (top and bottom) from Z1. Apparently, the kits are crap.
 
Mocks said:
Floats are free, but I'm not sure if the needles are sticking or not. Are the complete carb kits on eBay worth it or are they junk?
Click to expand...

What height are the floats set?

To check your needle valves and seats, you can do two things.

First, pull the needle and seat out. Clean it off and then blow through the bottom of the seat as you gingerly push in the needle. Once it seats, you should feel it seal up and your cheeks will puff out like you are blowing a balloon. Otherwise, the needle is not seating properly and you need to clean out the seat and possibly replace that set.

If they all pass the blow test, you need to figure out whether fuel is slipping past the needle/seat o-ring. Put the carbs back together but leave the float bowls off. Then stand the rack up in a catch basin. I use a big oil change pan, but even a big foil casserole pan will work. Prop or hold it up from the bottom since you don't have bowls there. Then run fuel through the line.

You should see fuel coming through each needle valve. Gently lift the floats to make sure that fuel flow stops. It should only take about 30 seconds to check all 4 floats, so you won't be spilling a ton of gas.

If fuel drips or dribbles in with the float up, the needle seat o-ring is failing and needs to be replaced.

If both tests are clean, the last thing to check is the float movement. Even if they move nicely, you should double check that movement with the bowl gasket in place. I had one float that kept snagging on the edge of the bowl gasket, but it moved fine when I pulled the carbs apart.
 
allojohn said:
Dip your carbs and all the brass bits in Berrymans for 24 hours, buy an o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and a gasket set (top and bottom) from Z1. Apparently, the kits are crap.
Click to expand...

Do you mean while attatched to the rail and bolted together?
 
Mocks, have you been to Basscliff's site yet and read through your mega-welcome? If not, please put down the tools and do so very quickly. It will save you lots of heartache if you follow the recommendations of all the extremely knowledgeable folks on this forum.
 
Is it the #3 cylinder that is running rich?

What makes you think the petcock is good?
 
My experience was once i got it running right(carbs per tutorial and sunced) my carb settings went whaky and got that dead spot back again and found petcock vac tube started leaking into #3.Made it kinda hard to keep it tuned right lol.
 
Okay so now I'm just addressing the carb situation. I contacted the PO and they did o-rings and a rebuild kit in each. I pulled the floats and did the checking with the needles and seats like a "straw" and all of them sealed up nicely. I still need to check my float levels and I will do so tomorrow as my flat ruler is at work at the moment. But I did notice something on what appears to be the choke tube according to the pics provided on Basscliff's site... 3 of the choke tubes seem to have what appears to be a "plug" with a small pin hole in it and one doesn't have anything in the tube, it's open. It's on the second carb from your left if your on the bike. Are these needed?? Thanks!
 
Okay. I'll post some up as soon as I get back home tomorrow and have a camera handy. I have a factory service manual and Basscliff's site now, so I feel a little more comfy tearing into this "beast". Thanks to all for your patience in this matter. I may not get too much work done on her this weekend as I am taking my GF's son to the drag track for the motorcycle weekend there.
 
Also can weak springs in my needle be a possibility? And not be strong enough to seat the needle properly?
 
I do all my computer stuff off my iPhone and it seems you can't upload from an iPhone onto this site. Can I email a pic to any of you that would be willing to put it up for me? Thanks in advance.
 
You can install the free Photobucket application on your phone, go to the picture, copy the code, and then input to the forum. Or at least I have with my iPhone.
 
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