Trouble with timing

[Guest]

79 GS850. I set the points gap as per manual 0.3-0.4mm on both points then set the timing to 1-4, everything seems to be working fine but when I come to set the timing for 2-3 I cannot get my light to come on no matter how far I move the secondary plate. When I use my timing light 1-4 is set fine but 2-3 winds up to the left of the F mark by a fair bit, so much so that I cannot get it close to the F mark of 2-3 no matter how far the secondary plate is moved. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here, appreciate some help.

 

[Steve]

How smooth are the points? If there is ANY pitting, the raised edges of the pits will affect your clearance readings.

One more silly question ... when you check the 2/3 timing, you are moving the trigger wire for the timing light?

.

 

[Guest]

ha,ha. Yes I did move the trigger to #2 cylinder (even checked it with #3). The points look smooth when closed but my feeler does seem to drag on them. Is there way to smooth them out. I've never had much experience with dealing with points, had a guy do it when I put in the new points two years ago. I've got to put the money together for the dyna S.

 

[Guest]

Double check your points gap. I give mine a light file down with a "points file" to get rid of any ridges - I used to use sandpaper but have since been told that's not a great idea.

If it's dragging then the gap will be less than what you are measuring and even a small amount less will throw the timing as you're seeing.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I would suspect you are using the wrong timing mark !!

 

[Guest]

I'm pretty sure I'm using the correct timing marks. The line directly on the left of the F for both 1-4 and then 2-3. Not the T line.

 

[gs road racer]

not that this is a cure but most electronic or electrical supply places will carry contact files they are a soft and gentle abrasive.They work well for these

Rob give me a call I'll come fix it phone number is in PM

 

[Guest]

Ok, thanks for the help. The points needed to be sanded down. Did that and everything lined up just fine. Odd thing though, the bike is running fine (as it did before all this) except I have steam coming out the mufflers, and when I turn it off water pours out both drain holes of the exhaust. I've never had this happen before. I reset my air screws with no difference but I'm a bit hesitant to fiddle with my fuel mixture as it's set fairly well at the moment. Any thoughts on this? it is just water, no fuel smell, no oil smell, bit black due to carbon. Even the exhaust smells fairly normal. The battery went dead while I was doing all this work. I'm thinking due to the low charge and the fact it was warming up without getting to proper temp's (as in riding it) those are the causes. I'll take her for a spin and see if that fixes it all.

 

[Guest]

Don't worry about the water. It's just condensation that hasn't had a chance to clear as you've already guessed.

 

[gssuzukixxx]

Related question.

Also a '79 GS850: When setting timing with a timing light, engine idling at about 1200 RPM there is not enough adjustment in the backing plate slotted holes to allow timing to be set back to the "I" to the left of the "F". The best I can do is have the "1" in "1-4" line up with the stationary mark.

Is there a solution? The bike runs nice but is this too advanced for safe running?

Thanks
Brian

 

[Guest]

It sounds like you are using the wrong timing mark. You should be lining up the "F" mark for 1 and 4 to set the timing. The other mark is for your advanced timing which should be set with the idle much higher.

 

[Big T]

You set the timing to the "F" mark for both sides

Then, with the light still on, twist the throttle and rev to 2-3 K. You should see the timing move to the advance mark as you rev it up.